Magneto vs distributor

[kotchb]

Im restoring my 1939 B back to "original" condition. It has a distributor and coil. Id like to convert it to magneto after seeing several Cs at a show.
Pros cons? Currently having inconsistent spark issue. I think its a condenser problem. And i see a coil n points in the mag refurbish kit.

 

[teddy52food]

I would say it came with a mag. Also you don't need a battery to run it.

 

[old]

Im restoring my 1939 B back to "original" condition. It has a distributor and coil. Id like to convert it to magneto after seeing several Cs at a show.
Pros cons? Currently having inconsistent spark issue. I think its a condenser problem. And i see a coil n points in the mag refurbish kit.

Both have there good and bad points. Both use points and condenser but with a mag no problem if you have a dead battery but that also means you have to hand crank it which can cause problems if done wrong and end you up in the hospital. BDTD due to kick back

 

[kotchb]

Both have there good and bad points. Both use points and condenser but with a mag no problem if you have a dead battery but that also means you have to hand crank it which can cause problems if done wrong and end you up in the hospital. BDTD due to kick back

Watchd a young guy start his farmall A by hand. Very interesting.

 

[old]

Watchd a young guy start his farmall A by hand. Very interesting.

Offer the warning due to the fact I have been to the hospital due to a kick back from an B years ago

 

[olddavid]

We had a C with magneto and never had trouble with kickback that I recall. For the first few years here on the farm we always hand cranked it. Timing is important. Either style can kick if it's off. Our C would start easy when cold but if it was hot sometimes you had to crank a while.

 

[Nordic]

Im restoring my 1939 B back to "original" condition. It has a distributor and coil. Id like to convert it to magneto after seeing several Cs at a show.
Pros cons? Currently having inconsistent spark issue. I think its a condenser problem. And i see a coil n points in the mag refurbish kit.

It's one thing if you wish to have the tractor original as it was when new with a magneto. Distributor ignition didn't come until the early 50's. The latter is cheaper and easier to service, however, you need to check to see if the distributor bushings are worn to the point that you get inconsistent sparks for that reason. There would be rebuilding cost to fix that unless you do it yourself. If you have access to a good and cheap magneto go that route.

 

[Watthour]

The '38 I had came with a Fairbanks FMJ mag. No battery, but it did have a hand crank.

 

[560Dennis]

I think Fairbanks Morse make excellent magnetos .

 

[kotchb]

The '38 I had came with a Fairbanks FMJ mag. No battery, but it did have a hand crank.

Ill use this pic for my resto. Did it have a choke rod? Mine does not and when i had carb rebuilt it did not come back with any linkage.

 

[Watthour]

Ill use this pic for my resto. Did it have a choke rod? Mine does not and when i had carb rebuilt it did not come back with any linkage.

The only "linkage" is the lever on the shaft. I believe the thought was that an operator would be standing out front to turn on the fuel and grab/pull the crank handle to start it, so the choke would be well within arm's reach.

 

[Richard Nixon]

Im restoring my 1939 B back to "original" condition. It has a distributor and coil. Id like to convert it to magneto after seeing several Cs at a show.
Pros cons? Currently having inconsistent spark issue. I think its a condenser problem. And i see a coil n points in the mag refurbish kit.

If you go with the magneto be sure to learn the proper hand cranking technique just in case you do have to hand crank it. That way you won't end up in the hospital. I'm mildly surprised no one mentioned it.

 

[wore out]

If you go with the magneto be sure to learn the proper hand cranking technique just in case you do have to hand crank it. That way you won't end up in the hospital. I'm mildly surprised no one mentioned it.

A properly timed mag is no more likely to cause a "kickback" than a distributor. The spark advance in a distributor can stick in the "advanced" mode and cause a "kickback".

Bottom line is to crank properly and carefully no matter WHAT ignition system the tractor may have.

 

[old]

A properly timed mag is no more likely to cause a "kickback" than a distributor. The spark advance in a distributor can stick in the "advanced" mode and cause a "kickback".

Bottom line is to crank properly and carefully no matter WHAT ignition system the tractor may have.

Very true but it happens a lot. Back 40 or so years ago we had a A/C B that had been starting just fine and then one day it sent me to the hospital but yet it had hand cranks just the day before

 

[kotchb]

Ive seen videos about how to grip the handle. Magneto arrives Friday. Timing it..TDC #1 cyl. Remove dist. Install mag w rotor or whatever pointing to #1 wire?

 

[Nordic]

Ive seen videos about how to grip the handle. Magneto arrives Friday. Timing it..TDC #1 cyl. Remove dist. Install mag w rotor or whatever pointing to #1 wire?

If you don't want to remove the cap to see the rotor on #1, just use a plug wire on #1 with spark plug, with plug grounded to the mag turn over the drive until you see the spark and install the mag that way.

 

[kotchb]

If you don't want to remove the cap to see the rotor on #1, just use a plug wire on #1 with spark plug, with plug grounded to the mag turn over the drive until you see the spark and install the mag that way.

And #1 is where tradtionally on a mag?

 

[old]

And #1 is where tradtionally on a mag?

On most mags they can be install 2 ways so where #1 is depends on how the mag was installed.

 

[kotchb]

On most mags they can be install 2 ways so where #1 is depends on how the mag was installed.

I will be installing. Top right i assume

 

[kotchb]

Just watched a quick video about installation. Its as i assumed; start at TDC.