Making pucks for sleeve puller

Tom Fleming

Well-known Member
I have a homemade sleeve puller that I bought at a flea market a few years back. Now that I have a lathe, I would like to make some sleeve pulling pucks that actually fit correctly on the sleeves. The ones i have are sloppy and while they work, it is a pain to get them lined up to pull straight since they don't have the correct lip on the to fit inside the sleeve to pull squarely.

basically my question is, where can I find the ID and OD dimensions for the various sleeves for the Letter and F series engines? I have some C-113 sleeves around, so that one is easy.

No hurry on this, but if anyone has some sleeves sitting around that they could measure for OD and ID, then post it on this thread, I would really be grateful. Or, if there is a refernce source that I can get the various measurements, that too would work.
 
On any of the wet sleeve engine I have yet to use a sleeve puller. Might be nice to have but I have found not needed yet that is. A simple piece of oak cut to fit works just fine
 
Out of all the ones I have done wet sleeve that is I have only had one break and that one had a bad spot on it so that maybe why. What I do is cut a piece of oak so it covers the whole sleeve end and than hit that. Yes you have to mess with and trim here and there to make it fit but once you have it that way and it sits flat on the sleeve it should pop out and not hurt the sleeve
 
I have several pucks I made on my lathe for pulling various sized sleeves, I will get some measurements for you, I know I made pucks for H, M and 400 sleeves. ID is easy, I usually make it .010" smaller than the bore diameter. F20/Regular 3.75" bore, 10-20/F30/W30 4.25"; 15-30 4.5"; 22-36 4.75" I have some sleeves out that I can measure OD for you.

(quoted from post at 11:25:42 12/29/12) On any of the wet sleeve engine I have yet to use a sleeve puller. Might be nice to have but I have found not needed yet that is. A simple piece of oak cut to fit works just fine

I must get all the rusted up engines to work on then, because I have removed sleeves from numerous F20, F30, and 10-20 engines and I have had to use my 20 ton press to get them to pop loose and then with a big BANG! that just about makes you jump out of your skin!
 
You have been lucky or maybe havent pulled as many as i have some are realy rusted fast with lots of junk around the bottom.
 
I have not done any of the F series engines but done a good many Farmall B/A etc and the A/C engines also and never had a problem yet but then one never knows and maybe I just know how to hold my mouth better then you do LOL
 
Ok, I have some measurements for you, Tom.

NOTE: These are the sizes you need to machine your puck, I have already subtracted the necessary amount for proper clearance. Further note that on the dry sleeves the step on the puck does not need to be very much, I generally go 1/8", but on the Farmall F-series wet sleeves you need a taller step because the bottom 1/4" to 3/8" of the sleeve is tapered. On the F20 a 1/4" step is enough but on all the others a 3/8" step is needed .

---------------------OD ID
M------------------4.110 3.990
H -----------------3.540 3.420
SM/400-----------4.240 4.110

F20/Regular-------4.110 3.740
F30/W30/10-20---4.750 4.240
15-30--------------5.100 4.450
22-36--------------5.100 4.740


(quoted from post at 13:11:41 12/29/12) I have not done any of the F series engines ...

That would explain why you have had good luck! The F-series engines were almost always ran with straight water in the radiator which caused a LOT more rust! I have pulled sleeves out of F20 engines that have had the water jacket half-full of rust flakes! Whereas the A/B/C were almost always ran with antifreeze which eliminated most of the rust and corrosion problem.
 
Kirk, thank you! just what I was looking for. Old, next time you knock out some sleeves, have someone take a picture of your lip placement! :wink:
 
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