Manifold Replacement

[ffrnemtp]

I got my 1949 8N a short time ago, and it needs some attention. Among the things it needs is a new manifold and exhaust. While I want the tractor to look as good as I can make it look, and there is a long 8N family history, I bought it to work. I am not a purist, and the machine will never compete in a show. I hope I don't make anybody mad here.

1. Why can't I replace manifold studs with studs that has a 14 thread on both ends instead of 14/20? For that matter, why can't I just use a bolt with a lock washer? Never seize will keep like metals from sticking.

2. Do I really need brass nuts? I have torque specs, so as long as I'm not careless, I shouldn't break or strip anything.

3. OT question--the manifold to exhaust clamp on the tractor is aluminum. The one I saw at TSC is a much heavier metal. Any big deal to use either one?

I have ONLY the highest regared for those purists who want everything original for a true restoration. That just isn't my purpose. I need to run a bush hog, finish mower, auger, box blade, etc.

Thanks

Doug---

 

[Dan]

I hear where you are coming from. Yes, you can use any stud that will fit into the block (or long bolts for that matter). If you use bolts, just ba aware the holes go through to the water jacket and will leak when you remove them.

Don't "have" to use brass nuts - this is only to reduce corrosion between nut and stud locking it into place and to allow the nut to strip instead of the harder stud. See the above note if the nut rusts to the stud and unscrews it from the block instead of the nut twisting off.

No difference I have found between the two exhaust clamps - they all leak about the same

Dan

 

[Dell (WA)]

Doug.......heres yer answer

1) castiron can only be threaded to "coarse thread"; "fine-thread" is more vibration proof; would you believe nylon locknuts won't on exhaust systems??? bolts don't seal like the "bulge" of a stud, stud-holes are WET. Neverseal is NOT waterproof.

2) BRASS nuts are designed to strip. Why? 'cuz constantly heating causes the interface (threads) to corrode and freeze on steel-on-steel. FYI, even today, many exhaust systems still use brass-nuts

3) either muffler to manifold clamp should work; remember "LARGE" side DOWN. tip: gently up-force yer exhaust muffler pipe with board supported hydraulic jack for tite fit before clamping

HTH.......Dell, notta purest

 

[Dan]

Great answers Dell...

 

[ffrnempt]

Thanks Dell. I always like your advice and alway appreciate it.

Another non-purist.

 

[ken benfield]

thanks for hitting on this topic.i just replaced the exhaust manifold on my 8n,i noticed the brass nuts are not as they should be "tight".where can i obtain nuts and studs locally here in roxboro,n.c.thanks everyone.

 

[ffrnempt]

That's the reason I asked the question. I can't get the studs or the brass nuts locally--and that includes, NAPA, Fastenal, and two local hardware stores. If the only reasons to use brass are prevent sticking and stripping, In not going to use them. A Snap-on torque wrench and some never sieze takes care of that little dilema. I'm just going to use what I can get which means 1 5/8" studs with 14 thread on both ends.

 

[Greybeard - PA]

We're talking about mebby $10 dollars' worth of parts to do the job properly and professionally, so the manifold will fit well and be easier to removce again, fifty years from now. Why not do the job right?

I have problems understanding why anyone in reach of a NAPA store - there are 6000 of 'em nationally - cannot get the correct studs and nuts. Bruce has posted the part numbers for these pieces many times on this forum. If your local NAPA store cannot get them for you when you give them the part number, they are not really a NAPA dealer, IMHO.

Dave Erb
New Holland, PA

 

[ffrnempt]

Hey Dave,

NAPA was my first stop with the part numbers I got from Bruce in my hand--don't have 'em, can't get 'em. Same story at Fastenal and two local hardware stores. These thing are not so available. It just don't see a problem with a stud threated with #14 on either end. I don't need a "soft" metal that'll strip--I have a torque wrench.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I had a hard time get'n the studs from naper myself,,, finally got a-hold of them and I don't like them.,,, Interesting is the part number was worthless at naper,,, a customer picked some up for me from a nut-bolt store and they are zackly like original,,, he gave me the number but I lost it did not record it are can not find were I wrote it down...

The only naper number I found that would work was ST-50,,, the nut # STN-104X,,, even those studs-nuts were hard to come by around here,,, I had to agree to buy a box of each then wait till they could be shipped thru the naper chain from bumbag Egypt...

Naper has got to were its my last choise for anything sept Belden plug wires

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

 

[Pete Cowart]

They are listed on the NAPA website stud, $2.39 (ouch, for a 50 cent stud).

Nut, $1.39

Pete

 

[Dunk]

Nut & Washer Kit - Brass nut & washer kit (Kit contains 4 nuts & 4 Washers) for intake & exhaust manifold. For tractors: 9N, 2N, 8N {1939-1952}. (Part No: 33816-KIT) $5.60

http://www.antiquetractorstore.com/parts/928ncat_pics.htm


88403-S - $1.50

Years: 1939-52
Manifold Stud (7/16-14 & 7/16-20 x 1 3/4)
http://store.cdgcommerce.com/stores/1010/1548.php
This is actually http://www.external_link

 

[Greybeard - PA]

Guess I'm lucky. My loca NAPA got the studs next day with Bruce's number - had the brass nuts in stock. I'm sure every NAPA store is not created equal - they're franchises, after all. Go figure .. .

 

[Kevin in MN]

They cannot get? It's part of their default inventory.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=RFD86644_0006416987

 

[Dunk]

(quoted from post at 17:24:26 01/30/10) They cannot get? It's part of their default inventory.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=RFD86644_0006416987

I feel that is "on the money", when we had a NAPA, they had it all right behind the counter, no ifs, ands, or buts....

 

[Hobo,NC]

Them naper studs should do it,,, not all naper parts stores are created equal,,, believe me,,, I did contact a customer that got me some zack as original here's his reply

I pulled out some receipts. Pretty sure I got those studs from Wilder's, Inc. in downtown Raleigh, 2406 Alwin Court, P.O. Box 40218, Raleigh 27629, 919-833-2761, 1-800-331-8082. On my receipts I don't see anything described as studs or listed by size, but they're the only thing I think I bought two boxes of, one for me, then one for you about a week later (3/18 and 3/28/08) so try this part number: 9701. If that doesn't work, just tell them what you're looking for. That's all I did.

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution