Marvel Schebler

[scootergmc]

Maybe heat it up a little then try to get some wax from a candle to melt down into the threads.
Dave

Not good for two reasons:

1. it's an old wive's tale. the heat does all the work. wax is useless.
2. you don't want to add to your problem by introducing another foreign contaminent into a carbuetor.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

And rarely does a week go by without a poster telling about his problem with the amazon carburetor. No thanks.

I suggested if you can't boil it in oil and repair it you can buy aftermarket carbs from Amazon and other places much cheaper
I also said" I know many people hate Amazon"
I also suggested to look at YT parts first if you are not a fan of Amazon.
You asked what would I do. I told you what I have done and now you don't like my answer. Good Grief.
BTW, I just ordered a new carb for my 20 year 6.5hp Briggs on a pressure washer. $20
I get everything, new gas hose, air and gas filter, gaskets and more.
I'll do my best not to reply to you again.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

I've taken a few out just by heating it with a propane torch, just till it smoked when you remove the flame. Use a good deep well socket.

I should have been more specific. I heat the casting section below the hex shoulder. NOT the jet itself. BTW, last year I rebuilt four carbs, a CUB, two TSXs for E3s and one for an AC G and got all the parts in one order from McDonald. Only one complaint, the main nozzle gasket for the E3s was too tight on the ID so I reused the old ones. All the other stuff was good.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Not good for two reasons:

1. it's an old wive's tale. the heat does all the work. wax is useless.
2. you don't want to add to your problem by introducing another foreign contaminent into a carbuetor.

Wives tale out west , but it works here. That wax helps get into the threads. Father in law has done it too many times. I've seen it and helped on different threads. GG Wes

 

[Ozlander]

And rarely does a week go by without a poster telling about his problem with the amazon carburetor. No thanks.

Really, I haven't seen any.

 

[scootergmc]

Wives tale out west , but it works here. That wax helps get into the threads. Father in law has done it too many times. I've seen it and helped on different threads. GG Wes

You can find videos disproving the theory, but go ahead and keep doing it.

 

[Duey C]

Did you get it out?

 

[GermantownGreen]

You can find videos disproving the theory, but go ahead and keep doing it.

Your rust must be like butter out there! Maybe that's why the wax doesn't work for you. I'm sharing, my eyes have seen it done, and working on at least five things in the past recently. GG Wes

 

[scootergmc]

Your rust must be like butter out there! Maybe that's why the wax doesn't work for you. I'm sharing, my eyes have seen it done, and working on at least five things in the past recently. GG Wes

When you're seeing it being done, ask yourself what you're really seeing be done. We deal with old tractor blind hole bolt/stud removal all the time. My eyes have seen wax used as well, not recently though, as we all know it's an old wives' tale. Just because you use wax on something after heating something up doesn't mean it is having a causal effect on any rust or stubborn material. Thermodynamics is king. But you can go ahead and keep doing it and making a mess.

 

[37 chief]

I would just heat the jet with a torch and let it cool. should come out easy then. Ron MN

My thought also. The heat will not do any harm to the cast iron. Make sure the screw driver fits good in the slot, if it has a screw driver slot.. I bump my screw driver on a grinding wheel to give it good sharp edges, to hold it in the slot. Stan

 

[showcrop]

Did you get it out?

I haven't been able to take a minute yet from urgent projects, but after this Tuesday I should get some breathing room.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Not good for two reasons:

1. it's an old wive's tale. the heat does all the work. wax is useless.
2. you don't want to add to your problem by introducing another foreign contaminent into a carbuetor.

I agree. I tried it a couple of times and the was just smokes and burns away, never gets into the threads.

 

[montidale]

I would try what greenmech recommends. just heat it until the brass starts to change color. Don’t melt It. Let it sit and cool by itself. It should come out easily after that.

 

[DanielW]

Others will likely criticize me. But anymore, I don't remove the jets unless I have to - which is usually only if I need different orifice diameters in there. Although they usually come out with heat, as StevieB notes above there's always some risk of breaking it - especially if someone else has been in it before and been reefing on it and rounding it off.

I used to be keen on removing them for every carb rebuild, but anymore I find there's no (or rather: very, very rarely) any need to: it's not worth the risk. By soaking and blasting through with your favourite flavour of cleaner; poking through as best as you can with a thin wire (I find the inside wire from a twist-tie with the plastic stripped off works great); blowing back and forth through with air; then repeating with the cleaner/air, you can almost always get them just as clean as you would by removing them. I have a sonicator that I use for soaking them too, which helps break down stubborn crapulence (though I don't think it's really necessary 95% of the time).

Even if you think you may have to remove it, there's not much to be lost by cleaning it as best as you can without removing it and seeing how it runs. The worst case would be you just needing to buy another bowl gasket when you take it apart again to have another go at removing it.

 

[scootergmc]

Others will likely criticize me. But anymore, I don't remove the jets unless I have to - which is usually only if I need different orifice diameters in there. Although they usually come out with heat, as StevieB notes above there's always some risk of breaking it - especially if someone else has been in it before and been reefing on it and rounding it off.

I used to be keen on removing them for every carb rebuild, but anymore I find there's no (or rather: very, very rarely) any need to: it's not worth the risk. By soaking and blasting through with your favourite flavour of cleaner; poking through as best as you can with a thin wire (I find the inside wire from a twist-tie with the plastic stripped off works great); blowing back and forth through with air; then repeating with the cleaner/air, you can almost always get them just as clean as you would by removing them. I have a sonicator that I use for soaking them too, which helps break down stubborn crapulence (though I don't think it's really necessary 95% of the time).

Even if you think you may have to remove it, there's not much to be lost by cleaning it as best as you can without removing it and seeing how it runs. The worst case would be you just needing to buy another bowl gasket when you take it apart again to have another go at removing it.

I won't criticize since you're talking about jets themselves, but if you don't take the nozzle out there's zero chance you're going to get that passageway fully clean. I agree you can absolutely leave the jet in underneath once the nozzle is out.