Massey 44 engine replacement

khmarch

Member
I saw on YouTube a year or so ago that someone put a small engine (12-20 hp) gas lawnmower engine in a Massey 44 tractor.
I can't find it now. How hard would it be to do?

Thanks
Keith
 
Your horsepower would be half (or less) of what you originally had. The torque would be almost nonexistent . Why would you want to?
 
I believe you're thinking of the chap who put a 13HP Princess Auto (Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight) engine in a Massey 33, not a 44. Original engine was missing, so seems a reasonable idea to me.

 
I believe you're thinking of the chap who put a 13HP Princess Auto (Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight) engine in a Massey 33, not a 44. Original engine was missing, so seems a reasonable idea to me.

Yes that was it. Thank You!!
I am getting my Massey 44 engine redone and was thinking of doing this in the short term. Until my engine is done.
Keith
 
Keith, all you have to do is design the replacement with a clutch, and then adapt the driveline into the tranny to fit your output on the engine/bellhousing. Or figure a way to adapt your replacement engine into the clutch, and the bellhousing. I considered putting a GM v-6 into my 101 Jr. With some good fabrication skills, you could put a Dodge hemi in one. steve
 
I saw on YouTube a year or so ago that someone put a small engine (12-20 hp) gas lawnmower engine in a Massey 44 tractor.
I can't find it now. How hard would it be to do?

Thanks
Keith
How hard depends on your skill. You are going to have to design and fabricate bracketry to mount the engine in the frame rails. You are going to have to figure out how to compensate for the fact that the engine turns 2x as fast as the original engine. You are going to have to figure out how to connect the output of the engine to the input of the transmission, with a way to have some sort of "clutch" to allow you to stop and shift. None of that comes as a "kit."

Some thoughts I have... Consider using a CVT/Torque Converter drive. That solves at least two of the challenges.
 
Your horsepower would be half (or less) of what you originally had. The torque would be almost nonexistent . Why would you want to?
Unless you're pulling a plow or operating a forage harvester, the tractor is only using a fraction of its capability at any given moment. For pulling a firewood trailer around or even skidding logs, half the horsepower is more than enough.

Torque is accomplished through gearing. Since a small engine runs at 2X the RPM of the original engine, there's a prime opportunity for gearing.
 
How hard depends on your skill. You are going to have to design and fabricate bracketry to mount the engine in the frame rails. You are going to have to figure out how to compensate for the fact that the engine turns 2x as fast as the original engine. You are going to have to figure out how to connect the output of the engine to the input of the transmission, with a way to have some sort of "clutch" to allow you to stop and shift. None of that comes as a "kit."

Some thoughts I have... Consider using a CVT/Torque Converter drive. That solves at least two of the challenges.
And once you cobble all of your ideas into working model, you’ll have spent more than what it would take to find a 260 block, overhaul it and get it running. That’s even considering the high cost of 260 parts.
 
And once you cobble all of your ideas into working model, you’ll have spent more than what it would take to find a 260 block, overhaul it and get it running. That’s even considering the high cost of 260 parts.
If you bothered to read the OP's posts, the engine is in the shop being overhauled. They're just looking at having a little fun while that's happening. With so few machine shops capable of doing this kind of work left, it will be months before they get the engine back.

Buying everything new, a guy can do a conversion for under $1000, less if you scrounge up used parts. The machine shop bill is going to be closer to $3000 to overhaul the engine.

It's okay to not like an idea. You don't have to make up inflated claims to justify your opinion.
 
If you bothered to read the OP's posts, the engine is in the shop being overhauled. They're just looking at having a little fun while that's happening. With so few machine shops capable of doing this kind of work left, it will be months before they get the engine back.

Buying everything new, a guy can do a conversion for under $1000, less if you scrounge up used parts. The machine shop bill is going to be closer to $3000 to overhaul the engine.

It's okay to not like an idea. You don't have to make up inflated claims to justify your opinion.
SO FAR.
I got an 224 cc engine from H.F. - $192.14 (Can use the engine in something else later)
and a 8.5" x 22" x 3/8" steel plate from a scrap yard - $21.32
Now to drill some holes.
Ordered a 10 tooth sprocket.
More fun.
Here is my other post: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/massey-harris-44-4-cylinder-gas-wide-row.1770024/
 
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Got this far!!! :-)
 

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NO, I was just going to go straight from shaft to shaft. I am going to us the clutch on the tractor.
I might be wrong, because I don't have a 44, but isn't the clutch enclosed in the bellhousing which is probably still attached to your original engine? In your first photo, that clevis on the shaft along your left frame rail actuates the clutch cross shaft in the bellhousing. It does not appear to be attached. steve
 
I might be wrong, because I don't have a 44, but isn't the clutch enclosed in the bellhousing which is attached to your original engine?
If I put it in gear. The tires start to move as I rotate the shaft. If I push the clutch pedal down, the wheels stop.
Because if I remember right, the org engine kept the shaft rotating.
 
I might be wrong, because I don't have a 44, but isn't the clutch enclosed in the bellhousing which is probably still attached to your original engine? In your first photo, that clevis on the shaft along your left frame rail actuates the clutch cross shaft in the bellhousing. It does not appear to be attached. steve
Sorry, a brain fart :-(
Yes, you are correct. That rod moves back and forth when I push down and let up on the clutch.
 

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Sorry, a brain fart :-(
Yes, you are correct. That rod moves back and forth when I push down and let up on the clutch.
I wondered if you were just going to pull on the rope then jump on with it moving. Might not have been the plan, but it is now if you want to move it.
 
Sorry, a brain fart :-(
Yes, you are correct. That rod moves back and forth when I push down and let up on the clutch.
You might get by with a sprocketed, heavy duty centrifugal clutch on the engine. It will start in neutral, and when you rev the engine, it will drive the transmission, via a chain to the existing sprocket.
 
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