Massey Ferguson 2675

Andrew100

Member
Anybody have experience with warming up an MF 2675 in a Canadian winter? The block heater is not enough. Do the lower rad heaters work? I appreciate any suggestions. Andrew
 
I live in Southern WI USA. A block heater is not enough on a 6 cylinder Perkins in winter. Not sure why they were even installed on the 6 cylinder engine. Had good luck with block heaters on Perkins 4 cylinder engines. 2 block heaters one one each side works on a v-8 Perkins also. You need a tank Heater sized for the size of engine or matched to coolant amount. 40 years experience.
 
Also plumbing in the tank heater is important.Plumb in front top near water pump and side of block or further back. Also I'd be concerned with using one of those 24 speed transmissions with cold oil in it. That's a recipe for tranny problems. Tractor should be stored in a heated building or a tranny heater also. tranmission heaters are needed on some newer tractors with JD green paint I have heard also. So this not just the case on a 2000 series MF Good luck!
 
Tank heaters use heater hose to connect to tractor. The tank heaters that i have bought come with a Y fitting, and are probably used to plumb into heater hose. I would make sure Y is close to the water pump. New heaters are not that expensive. I'd only buy a used one if its fairly new.
 
Plumbing into heater hose may be ok but not with both hoses. One tank heater hose the out put one needs to go into the block to heat the block evenly.
 
This tractor has 3700 hours, was stored in a barn by the previous owner for crops and never used in winter. It's in really good shape for its age and currently it's in my barn when it's not used for round baling. Now I understand why the transmission is in perfect shape. I had hoped to use it in spring and fall but don't want to risk damage. To what temperature is it safe to use the transmission without a heater?[/u]
 
I don't know details as to what temp is safe, but cold is not only enemy. When tractor is at standstill have Powershift in intermediate range. O rings in PS in early models were not made of the best material. I believe it was not until 10 ? years after production o ring material became available that could stand up to the transmission. I forget but it was in later sn models 4-6000 ? those tractors came with many factory updates that made the tranny much better. I had 2- 2805's in the years 2005 to about a few years ago that were good to me. Sold them because i didn't need the big HP anymore. Very quiet cab, nice tractor all around.
 
Wow! This has been incredibly enlightening! Mine is definitely an older model 2675 as it has the old chemical in the a/c. You have successfully cautioned me about the risks of expanding the work year and explained the mystery of so many Massey 2675's out there with broken transmissions. Hope to raise new topics in a few days. Thanks so much!
 
Wow! This has been incredibly enlightening! Mine is definitely an older model 2675 as it has the old chemical in the a/c. You have successfully cautioned me about the risks of expanding the work year and explained the mystery of so many Massey 2675's out there with broken transmissions. Hope to raise new topics in a few days. Thanks so much!
 
Many have destroyed these PS transmissions by not stopping when o rings blow and it get in 2 ranges. If this happens it will pull engine down and grind it out and junk- destroy PS. If only operator would stop and have new seals replaced with the new style. With the new style seal kit they are a very good tranny
 
Also when shifting the double H pattern don't cut the corner when changing lever directions. another words go past center some so gears follow before changing lever direction or lever can jump out of wack especially on a worn tranny.If this happens have a experienced mechanic take side cover off and line things up again. Mf rewoked this tranny and used it in the 3000 series and they are quite bullet proof.
 
(reply to post at 00:55:20 02/03/21)
Thanks! Yes, I discovered the changes in the H are much smoother in the way you described. Since we're talking transmission, the shuttle up and down between high, intermediate and low in any gear is so sudden that I use the clutch to make a smooth transition. Anything I should be looking for?
 
I'd see if there's one or two more block plugs, some Perkins had room for two 1 1/4 inch block heaters. Also, the three speed shift has NO oil to lock any clutch when in
intermediate range, that clutch is spring applied. Oil goes to APPLY the low or high clutch, and to RELEASE the intermediate when either lo or high are used. Damage is
usually done when the O rings fail on intermediate RELEASE side, causing two clutches to be applied at once. I've never tried it, but the 24 speed models should be able
to pull or roll start like older tractors in high gear, since with engine off the intermediate clutch is spring applied.
 
354 Perkins should start down to 0F without a block heater. And as cold as you need with one. Had an 1105 that plowed a lot of snow and ground feed all winter long in northern Maine.

I wouldn’t recommend starting it that cold without the heater unless absolutely necessary, but it will do it.
 
(reply to post at 03:17:55 02/04/21)
This Perkins diesel does not fire up, even with ether, at 32 F. or lower (i.e. frost). Previous owner only used the tractor in spring, summer and early fall but it seems getting a heater for the engine would have limited value without heating up the rest of the tractor.
 
I have had my 1105 since 1980. For some reason engine was hard to start even in mild weather, a hired man of mine gave it to much either and it rattled badly. Had to overhaul it with 2000 hrs on it and on at least one piston the ring grooves were broke off the piston in a place or two. That was about 1986. After the overhaul it was not worked hard enough to seat rings and it burned oil. At about 5000 hrs it needed a overhaul again. This time it was was put to hard work and it broke in properly. This 354 will knock-rattle when starting cold with or with out ether. So I don't like to start it cold or with ether. I like to plug it in. Now I have a 354.4 engine in a newer MF 3650 and it takes ether much better, but still I like to plug it and heat it. Not all engines that are the same will start the same in cold weather. I have a 2 tractors with a Perkins 318-4cylinder. one has always started better cold than the other.
 
I have two magnetic heaters on my test stand calibration oil tank, they do help the built in tank heater but I wouldn't bother even trying them on an engine block. They don't transfer much heat. On my 1105 years ago I had two block heaters in it, and even though they were only 400 watt each they warmed engine well.
 


I used a 1500 watt block heater on my semi's. They always done the job. Plugged in over night and even blew warm air out of the heater when it started.
 
I'm sure its very rare that anybody uses trans heaters,other than keeping tractor in heated area when cold.My only experience close to hyd oil temp flow is with my Case 430 skidloader is that about 32 F seems to be where I notice Hydo gets jumpy if trying to move it without a sit still warm up with eng running. Another guess is using thinner HYD oil in winter which I have not tried.
 
While the tractor engine is warming up, make sure the three speed shift is in INTERMEDIATE range. If left in Lo or Hi, and one of the seals fail due to cold trans oil
being cold you MIGHT burn up two clutch packs. That happened years ago on my neighbor's tractor, left in Lo while he went back inside for coffee. Came back out, engine
had died, and Lo/intermediate clutch packs burned up..
 
(reply to post at 20:36:20 02/09/21)
ack to installing an external circulating tank heater. The MF2675 has an oil cooler that circulates coolant through an oil chamber. It seems an easier hookup would be to use "t's" to connect the inlet for the tank heater with the inlet pipe to the oil cooler; the tank heater pipe outlet would would connect with outlet of the oil cooler. Any disadvantages?
 
(reply to post at 17:49:36 03/01/21)
Now, I'm thinking the inlet pipe would be as described in my previous entry but the hot water outlet would go via a "y" piece attached to the return line of the the cab heater above the water pump. Any disadvantages?
 
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