Massey Harris - F162A308 Tappet Lifter

[jnharsh]

I am restoring a Tractor that has a Continental Flathead F162 (F162A308). I need the adjusting screw 9/16 Hex head and the 3/4 Jam nut in the Tappet Lifter that has 7/8 flats on the side. Any good resource to find this part? I have looked through the parts on this site but they appear to be lifters for much later tractors. I did find a Continental engine guide that lists part 581258, assume that is the entire assembly that would get me what I need. Appreciate any ideas.

Thanks Jeff

 

[Dieseltech]

The Continental F124, F140, F162, F186, F226, and F224 engines all use the same lifter in case you find one of the other engines at a parts yard

 

[stevieb49829]

Jeff. do you only need one, or the whole gallery of them?

 

[jnharsh]

(quoted from post at 18:12:11 12/03/22) Jeff. do you only need one, or the whole gallery of them?

I actually only need one. The top adjusting nut is damaged. On cylinder #1 exhaust. If I can find an exact replacement I could probably fix with just the adjusting screw and lock nut of a new lifter into this existing one.

Jeff

 

[stevieb49829]

The reason I asked is because I have an F162 in my parts '44 Massey Harris 101 Jr. with several holes out the side of the block. The engine is toast. I'll pull the side cover
off it and take a look at the valve train, and then let you know if I have something you can use. Where are you located? I'm in N. Idaho. steve

 

[jnharsh]

(quoted from post at 21:28:30 12/03/22) The reason I asked is because I have an F162 in my parts '44 Massey Harris 101 Jr. with several holes out the side of the block. The engine is toast. I'll pull the side cover
off it and take a look at the valve train, and then let you know if I have something you can use. Where are you located? I'm in N. Idaho. steve

That would be great , let me know. I m fixing up the tractor out at my Dads place in Southeast Iowa. If you find something I could use I can make arrangements to get it out to me.

Jeff

 

[stevieb49829]

Jeff, I haven't looked at mine yet. Am I going to have to pull the head to get the tappet adjuster out? If that's the case, I'm going to pull a few bolts and yank the engine out, put it in my heated shop, and work from there. I need to tear it apart anyway, and its 6 degrees here this morning. There's only 4 bolts on various mounts, and I'll have it dangling off my FEL on my running 101JR. Then onto the engine stand and make parts out of it. I'll probably work on it today, and let you know. steve

 

[jnharsh]

(quoted from post at 11:57:39 12/04/22) Jeff, I haven't looked at mine yet. Am I going to have to pull the head to get the tappet adjuster out? If that's the case, I'm going to pull a few bolts and yank the engine out, put it in my heated shop, and work from there. I need to tear it apart anyway, and its 6 degrees here this morning. There's only 4 bolts on various mounts, and I'll have it dangling off my FEL on my running 101JR. Then onto the engine stand and make parts out of it. I'll probably work on it today, and let you know. steve

You can pull off the manifold off and open the tappet cover on the side. You can hold the tappet lifter with a 7/8 wrench and use a 3/4 inch wrench on the jam nut to wind it counterclockwise wise until the entire adjustment screw and Jam nut will come out of the lifter. The screw and nut are the only part I need, lifters can only come out if you break down the lower half of the engine. I was hoping to wind a new screw and nut into my existing lifter as I didn t need to do anything to the lower end of the engine. Let me know.how it goes. I can shoot you an email with my details. Thanks Jeff

 

[stevieb49829]

I pulled the pan, and there's parts of the cam laying in the bottom. Thankfully only 4 lifters fell out the bottom and got ground up by the crank and broken rod. I'll try your method to run the adjuster all the way out of the lifter. I played a little with it and it seemed the valves were stopping it from going high enough, but I did not unscrew the adjuster screw yet, just pried the valve up. I was trying to get the front half of the cam out, and then the lifters would drop out the bottom. Back at it after supper.....steve

 

[jnharsh]

Thanks for the update. Yep, I think they might drop out the bottom with the cam out or broken , or you can lift high enough to screw the adjuster nut and jam nut out with the valve out or lifted.

Jeff

 

[stevieb49829]

Like this:

 

[jnharsh]

Your seems to be different. ? Mine pictured below has coarse thread section that screws into the lifter. Then a flange and then the larger section that has very fine threads that the jam nut rises up. In my picture the jam nut is threaded all the way up to the top 9/16 inch hex head that is broken?

Am I looking at them wrong or are they different ?

 

[stevieb49829]

Yours looks like the same thing, but may have been jury rigged, or your lifter body is boogered, or your through bolt is sheared inside the jamb collar. Look close and you will see my 3/8 fine treads is a bolt that runs all the way through the jam nut/collar. It threads down into the lifter body. Once the 9/16 head is set with the correct clearance on the valve stem, the 3/4 jamb nut is tightened down into the lifter body, to lock the setting. If the threads are not 3/8 NF in your lifter body, this piece out of mine won't just screw in. You'd need the lifter body too (and a bunch of work to get the lifter body replaced in yours. Mine came out the bottom, once I pulled the oil pump, and the rest of the cam shaft. My lifter body is about 1.8 inches long, and .987 diameter. I took another pic of the two parts, and a whole lifter, but my phone is not talking to my PC right now.

 

[stevieb49829]

Put your 3/4 jamb nut in a vise, and try to unscrew the 9/16 top nut. I'll bet you my next paycheck it's partially sheared off, and will come completely off/ or unscrew crooked if you try hard enough. That is, IF the bottom threads you are showing are 3/8 NF.

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 21:37:04 12/04/22) Put your 3/4 jamb nut in a vise, and try to unscrew the 9/16 top nut. I'll bet you my next paycheck it's partially sheared off, and will come completely off/ or unscrew crooked if you try hard enough. That is, IF the bottom threads you are showing are 3/8 NF.

I would agree with that statement!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[stevieb49829]

Here's the pic.

 

[stevieb49829]

PT: wrong, or different? Or just stirring the pot? steve

 

[jnharsh]

I have to travel to California for a couple days , but will dig into it when I get back Friday. Might have to end up getting the entire lifter and opening the lower end like you said.

Jeff

 

[stevieb49829]

The lifter will go in through the side, but you'd have to pull the head and that valve, and spring to make enough room. That's probably a little easier than pulling enough stuff to get it out the bottom. Radiator, crank pulley, front cover, pan, oil pump and then I'm not sure you could get the cam out without loosening all the lash on all the valves. Still might not be enough room to slide the cam out. OR Drain the block, pull the head, pull the valve spring up enough to get the pin out of the retainer, and get the valve and spring out of the way. Here's hoping a 3/8 fine thread bolt fits into your lifter, and then I'll send you a bolt, and jamb nut. steve