Metal buildings

Jack345

Member
Which brand of metal building would you recommend for equipment 30-40ft wide by 60 -80 ft long, Would like one I could put up myself. Thanks
 
Which brand of metal building would you recommend for equipment 30-40ft wide by 60 -80 ft long, Would like one I could put up myself. Thanks
There are 2 places in Indiana that sell pole barn package for you to install or they have Amish crews that will. Both are in Davis County.
Grabber Post and DC Metals.
I would recommend you buy a pole barn package and get quality materials.
I did the ground prep and an Amish crew took 2 days to build a 30x40x10 pole barn.
I wanted vented eves and clear panel under the eves.
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There are 2 places in Indiana that sell pole barn package for you to install or they have Amish crews that will. Both are in Davis County.
Grabber Post and DC Metals.
I would recommend you buy a pole barn package and get quality materials.
I did the ground prep and an Amish crew took 2 days to build a 30x40x10 pole barn.
I wanted vented eves and clear panel under the eves. View attachment 112356
Very nice .
 
I would research what companies that sell them. Then dissect the company as to how long in business, ratings etc. Be a little bit weary of these adds that pop up no company history and Cheap! Check local codes also that is a big deal today (think tornado).
 
I would research what companies that sell them. Then dissect the company as to how long in business, ratings etc. Be a little bit weary of these adds that pop up no company history and Cheap! Check local codes also that is a big deal today (think tornado).
Very true ,indeed!
 
I would research what companies that sell them. Then dissect the company as to how long in business, ratings etc. Be a little bit weary of these adds that pop up no company history and Cheap! Check local codes also that is a big deal today (think tornado).
And snow load, wind.
 
VersaTube.

OP asked for a METAL building, not a pole barn.
Do you have experience with VersaTube? I have a carport with tin down both sides, similar to VersaTube designs. A cross wind will really make it flex and bend. Tin across the front and back would really stiffen it, but kind of ruin the carport design effect.
 
Can't say for the brand . I would probably stay away from those that are like a big corrugation rib for each panel and bolted together. I hauled a kit from MO to WY for a guy that had started one of those and a wind made it look like a pile of scrap in short order. The next one was a steel frame of angle iron with attached pieces welded on to fasten the wood roof boards and girts to then the steel or whatever siding he used. I found several years ago when I tried to talk to one of those steel building guys if you didn't want to send a check with a delivery time in mind they didn't want to talk to me. So pretty much dismissed them. I was looking at a 60or so by 80 for a shop and shed space in one then would have probably added a couple leantos on each side later.
 
Which brand of metal building would you recommend for equipment 30-40ft wide by 60 -80 ft long, Would like one I could put up myself. Thanks
The first red steel building I brought from a add in a VFW magazine that was around 1982.
The second one in 2001 from here.


Metal buildings are just components Taylor to your needs. You may are will have to cut some of the components to fit to your needs. I order a building fully sheeted then get the doors local on both they provided engineering plans. I needed the plans for permits and to know how to set the foundation. I put the first one up with help myself I paid to have the second one erected.

Today its common to see square tube buildings they are not red steel buildings and never will be.
 
Which brand of metal building would you recommend for equipment 30-40ft wide by 60 -80 ft long, Would like one I could put up myself. Thanks
I wanted to make a larger pole barn before I talked to my county assessor.
Then I decided to go smaller and taller to make a second floor.
My second floor is 8 ft off the ground and my Kubota is my elevator.
My Kubota can go under the second floor.
Indiana has a crazy way of assessing a second garage on the same property.
I had to attach the property I wanted to use to my house next door before I could build a pole barn.
Ask about taxes before you build anything. I'm glad I did,
I had to talk to area planning too. Do your homework first.
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I need to build a shed of some kind.Would like it to be a steel building so I can get a wider door in it easier. Wider like a 35-40 foot and 17-20 foot high. IF they keep making these combines bigger they will soon be to big for 16 foot doors and to wide to get the heads in on the machine for the night rain prevent. We usually get caught by a rain at each place we farm at so I need a place to get the cart and combine in for those periods. Saves roading it 10 miles to get it in. The cart can be backed in now and is if it is going to rain much. Is to tall for the doors we can use and to wide for the one it would go into. The reason for the 40 foot wide 17-20 foot high door. Wood will not get you a door that wide easy. Combine is 16 tall and 18 wide. with auger down cart will fit in a 12 foot door 16 wide. tractor too. I do have some I beams I could use for the verticals I do have a beam that would work for a 32wide door. The rest is the problem.
 
Whichever pole barn DIY design you decide on, I highly recommend using a ridge-pole skylight. I have one on my 60'x40'x15' pole barn and I really like how much natural light it allows. This is with doors closed, no windows. I hired DC metals to build mine.
 

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Whichever pole barn DIY design you decide on, I highly recommend using a ridge-pole skylight. I have one on my 60'x40'x15' pole barn and I really like how much natural light it allows. This is with doors closed, no windows. I hired DC metals to build mine.
Ray, that is one great pole barn, thanks
 
I forgot to say, I wouldn't attempt to construct it myself. DC metals used a skid-steer with a 30' extendable pole on it to raise and steady the truss's while workers screwed them in-place on the top plate. Construction time_ 7 days including pouring the floor.
I wonder how much a 42' truss made with 2x6 boards weighs? BTW, they set the 6x6 poles in crushed stone, in 2010. Then the total price was $27k with 4" concrete floor, today it's $55k.
Some say 4" is too thin, but that depends on amount of reinforcement and depth of crushed stone it's poured on; under that is 3' of packed creek gravel. This barns main purpose is for our 32,000# motorhome storage, my farm tractor, my 1932 Chevy, my workshop, with a 10'x10' loft in one corner for DW's storage.
 
I forgot to say, I wouldn't attempt to construct it myself. DC metals used a skid-steer with a 30' extendable pole on it to raise and steady the truss's while workers screwed them in-place on the top plate. Construction time_ 7 days including pouring the floor.
I wonder how much a 42' truss made with 2x6 boards weighs? BTW, they set the 6x6 poles in crushed stone, in 2010. Then the total price was $27k with 4" concrete floor, today it's $55k.
Some say 4" is too thin, but that depends on amount of reinforcement and depth of crushed stone it's poured on; under that is 3' of packed creek gravel. This barns main purpose is for our 32,000# motorhome storage, my farm tractor, my 1932 Chevy, my workshop, with a 10'x10' loft in one corner for DW's storage.
4” concrete with a good base is plenty to park just about anything short of a loaded semi on. I would be wary of lifting the 32,000 motor home with a bottle jack though.
 
4” concrete with a good base is plenty to park just about anything short of a loaded semi on. I would be wary of lifting the 32,000 motor home with a bottle jack though.
I store the MH on it's hyd. jacks all winter to reduce weight on tires.
 
Whichever pole barn DIY design you decide on, I highly recommend using a ridge-pole skylight. I have one on my 60'x40'x15' pole barn and I really like how much natural light it allows. This is with doors closed, no windows. I hired DC metals to build mine.
I put skylights in two buildings they have all been removed. Yes you do get good lighting from them 20 years down the road you will ask yourself why did you that.
 
That fiberglass used in the panels deteriorates and then goes to leaking around the screws/nails and now you have to go up there and replace them or put steel on in place of them. Sounds good at the building time but bites later on. Dad put some on an end wall and we are constantly fixing. I would just put steel on and get rid of it.
 
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