Metal cutting cold cut circular saw

[tirekicker]

Hi guys, I am interested in buying a metal cutting circular saw but before I do, I am wondering if you can just put a metal cutting cold cut blade in a regular circular saw or do you have to have the one made for metal? Thanks

 

[Stephen Newell]

I use a carborundum blade on a woodworking circular saw all the time. If you do very much cutting just make sure the guard is made out of metal or it will melt from the sparks.

 

[bmack95hd]

Diablo and Tenyru make metal cutting carbide tipped blades
for circular saws. What thickness of metal are you wanting to
cut? Milwaukee makes an 8 1/4? metal cutting saw.

 

[moresmoke]

I have a worm drive Black and Decker that I use a carbide cold blade in. The blade life is somewhat limited, probably turns a bit fast. As mentioned
below, a metal housing is needed, also a face shield and full leathers make use much more comfortable.

 

[Mule Meat]

Yes you can.. But the blade must be designed to operate at the the speed of the saw. You do not want to use for example a 2500 max rpm blade on a 5000 rpm saw. Blade gets hot and things can go bad quickly.

Two big NO NO's. Do not use a saw that has a plastic blade guard nor one that has a plastic housing over the blade. For with both the hot metal chips can and will melt into the plastic and build up. Once built up to much the blade catches them and chunkes of metal can be ejected with enough force to put you on the fast track to the ER.

 

[Steven-Id]

If you are wanting to cut thin steel like roof metal you can get a Steel Demon blade made by Diablo. I also have a metal cutting blade that is essentially just round with slots cut into it. Either way both are very noisy and lots of sparks to deal with. If you are wanting to cut steel like angle iron etc. I would use a carborundum blade. I don't know if a normal circular saw would hold up to too much of that.

Steven

 

[fixt]

I think you are talking about a cut off saw?
They run considerably slower than a cutoff type that takes the carborundum blades, you can't mix the two different blade types. The blades for the cold cut saws are also considerably more expensive and unless you are a production shop the carborundum blades are much cheaper. A 14" carborundum cutoff will burn up a $100 cold cut blade achieving nothing.

For a circle saw type, I've had good use from the Diablo metal blades for roofing type tin materials. It does sling a shower of hot bits though. Don't ever use a carbide tipped blade in metal. Little bits of carbide going everywhere at high speed. Safety glasses required for using this one.

 

[db4600]

Yes. We use it often for demo and HVAC openings on 20ga
deck. I wouldn?t be afraid to try it on 16ga., but efficiency is
lost on heavier.

 

[Dave in Tx]

I have a dewalt 14" with metal cutting blade and won't ever go back to fiber blades. Fast and cuts stay cold.I get a year or more and cut a lot of steel. Pipe angle and square stock. You have to cut with them and not try to cut slow. I also have a makita skill say with metal cutting blade designed for it and runs slower. can cut 3/4 flat stock much much faster than a torch. 1/2 flat stock and angle is like cutting 4x4 wood. blade lasts a long time as long as u don't cut thin stuff or rebar. smooth round is fast and smooth.

 

[kcm.MN]

What, SPECIFICALLY, are your cutting needs? Type/thickness of metal? Flat or contoured? How much cutting???

I was cutting 2x's one time, using my 17 cu' heavy-gauge steel dump trailer as a saw horse. Ended up cutting about 2" into the upper steel of the trailer. Never knew a thing! Kinda thought something was strange when the sound changed a bit, but dad-burnit, that carbide-tipped woodcutting 7 1/4" circular saw blade was going through it like a hot knife through melted.....eh, you know! :wink:

I wouldn't recommend using a non-metal cutting blade for steel for regular use, but a standard (and sharp) carbide blade can get you through in a pinch!

And yes, avoid cutting even thin metal with any saw that has plastic. ...Don't ask me how I know! Actually, had cut some standard box-store gauge metal siding/roofing with a saw that had aluminum. Metal bits were building up on the aluminum saw blade cover after a while. Would probably be a smart recommendation to check for that, EVEN ON a saw designed and meant for metal.

Be safe!

 

[ghostdncr]

This is not at all what you asked, but thought it might be worth mentioning. I fooled around with the circular saw idea for a number of years and got so tired of dealing with the sparks and bits/flecks of metal shooting around everywhere and all the safety gear...

Bought a PortaBand and metal cutting tasks have been smooth as silk ever since. Of course, it depends entirely on what kind of metal you're trying to cut. A PortaBand would be useless on siding, roofing, or anything like that but for cutting angle, channel, bar stock, or anything like that, it's a fantastic option.

 

[kcm.MN]

A PortaBand would be useless on siding, roofing, or anything like that but for cutting angle, channel, bar stock, or anything like that, it's a fantastic option.

Agreed. A great option to consider...if it fits your needs.

Good thinking Ghost.

 

[MarkB_MI]

I think you're talking about a "cold saw". Cold saw blades are intended to turn MUCH slower than a typical circular saw. If you're just cutting aluminum, you can do that with any carbide blade. But for steel, you need to slow that blade way down.

 

[1946 BN IHC]

I perchased a blade designed to cut sheet steel, aluminum,
copper, all none ferrous metals. Also does a gradnd job on
fermica counter top and plastics, no flagging edges. Hardware
sold them.

 

[Adirondack case guy]

I have a Diablo 7-1/4 metal cutting blade in my Makita worm drive saw and it works great to cut 12-20G sheet
metal. I have used it extensively, and you will eventually loose some of the carbide teeth and blade will need replacing. About $35 bucks.I have also used a plain cheap carbide blade for 16G sheet steel and it worked well for a few cuts that I needed to make.
Be sure to wear a full face shield and ear protection. Lots of hot chips and noise.
Loren

 

[dr sportster]

A cold saw has it's own stand and cuts slowly. It is un underrated unit that a lot of machine shop purchasing agents don't know about. A chop saw can use a 200 dollar carbide blade but after so many cuts it goes dull.

 

[dr sportster]

examples of cold saws.
Untitled URL Link

 

[Dusty MI]

I've used a wood cutting blade put in back words to cut steel roofing.

 

[david brodhead]

Get a Slugger Metal Cutting Saw and their blades . Depending on blade used they cut aluminum , stainless , carbon steel up to 5/16? thick. Used by lots of metal fab
shops .
They are a hot saw . Blade speed similar to wood saw.

 

[MSD]

I use a Milwaukee circular saw designed for metal cutting. It is a 8" blade in it, hss a design to catch all the metal cuttings so they are not flying all over. Will go through 1/2
steel like butter.

 

[DR. EVIL]

Dad gave me his 14 inch DeWalt abrasive cut-off saw. Have never used it. Got several new blades with it.
Had a 4"x6" bandsaw that NEVER cut square, base was machined wrong, not able to shim the saw to
compensate. Then the blade started jumping off the wheels and I gave up on it. It was handy for small,
up to bowling ball size parts. Then SON called couple years ago. He bought an EVOLUTION RAGE II cold saw,
very similar to my Delta miter saw for wood, but the Evo cuts steel, aluminum, plastic, wood,
instructions say stainless steel wears blade faster but they make a blade better suited for stainless. 14
inch diameter blade, cuts up to 5-6 inch tubing, probably cut solid bar too.
They make a hand held cold saw too, blade much more enclosed than a power saw for wood.

Have to agree, wear safety glasses AND a full face shield, and Head phones for both noise, and to keep
hot razor sharp steel chips out of your ears.

Putting a carbide tooth blade in a wood cutting power saw that runs 5000-5500 rpm, probably not a wise
idea. Had a co-worker years ago the shaft on his new power saw broke right where the shaft necked down
to mount the blade. Saw company gave him a new saw, plus some money for inconvenience, pain and
suffering but he was still missing two toes on one foot.

 

[old]

I done that many many times over the years. I have found that the heavier circular saws hold up better plus the metal body ones hold up better. On the other hand I have also burned out a good many over the years. I have probably 5 of those saws around the place and one ALWAYS has a metal cutting blade in it

 

[Bill in IL]

I have cut up to 1/4 inch stock with a ferrous metal
blade and standard circular saw. Works wonderful
and almost as fast as cutting wood. The hard part is
covering up enough (face mask and heavy gloves,
jacket) to keep the schards off of you thats why
metal cut saws are covered.

 

[dr sportster]

I've seen millwrights cut big I beams with those.

 

[Steve@Advance]

Short answer, no, a cold saw blade is intended for low RPM use only and with coolant.

You "might" get by cutting aluminum, but I wouldn't recommend it.

A cold saw runs down around 75-100 RPM, a chop saw 3600-4000 RPM. Huge difference!

 

[Jim in N.M.]

Look up "Dorenger"cold cut saws. American made, 14 in. blade will cut up to 5000 cuts before
sharping, Bad side of the blade is: they can't be sharpened by just anyone. I need to send
them back to California, so I keep a extra blade around. BUT 5000 cuts???? Jim in N.M.

 

[fastfarmall]

I bought a Evelution brand 14 inch cut off saw, 1,000 cuts, not a abrasive cut off wheel, It will cut up to 4 in solid steel, but don't push it , the blades last a lot longer. The best 350 bucks i ever spent, new blades are a 110 dollars.