MF 135 part confusion

danc1948

Member
Hello all, small problem compared to others, but recently had misfortune to have the alternator engine bracket break and I am having trouble finding the proper replacement. I am not sure of the year of manufacturer but a tag on the dash reads 135-410503.. have enclosed a photo of the bracket and alternator and while I suppose the mentioned bracket could be homemade, it was done awfully well, I do not know what kind of alternator is on the tractor. Maybe someone here could help identify but it has been working. don’t know if it was related but now I also have a radiator leak,possibly because I did not catch it in time and the fan belt was loose and there was some overheating.. at any rate searching for a MF 135 alternator bracket have only seen one that comes close offered by Sutter Brothers, the engine mount holes, and the bracket appear correct but one of the ends for the alternator bolt is curled which prohibited it’s use… I don’t believe that welding or braising the part back together would be a wise idea. Maybe someone here can point me in the right direction I sure would appreciate it and thank you very much. Danc
 

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Hello all, small problem compared to others, but recently had misfortune to have the alternator engine bracket break and I am having trouble finding the proper replacement. I am not sure of the year of manufacturer but a tag on the dash reads 135-410503.. have enclosed a photo of the bracket and alternator and while I suppose the mentioned bracket could be homemade, it was done awfully well, I do not know what kind of alternator is on the tractor. Maybe someone here could help identify but it has been working. don’t know if it was related but now I also have a radiator leak,possibly because I did not catch it in time and the fan belt was loose and there was some overheating.. at any rate searching for a MF 135 alternator bracket have only seen one that comes close offered by Sutter Brothers, the engine mount holes, and the bracket appear correct but one of the ends for the alternator bolt is curled which prohibited it’s use… I don’t believe that welding or braising the part back together would be a wise idea. Maybe someone here can point me in the right direction I sure would appreciate it and thank you very much. Danc
Is there a good welding shop in town if so take the bracket and the alternator to them and have them make you one. The bracket needs to be wider to use both of the bolts on he engine. Also the front where the alternator attaches needs two lugs to attach the alternator to.
 
Hello all, small problem compared to others, but recently had misfortune to have the alternator engine bracket break and I am having trouble finding the proper replacement. I am not sure of the year of manufacturer but a tag on the dash reads 135-410503.. have enclosed a photo of the bracket and alternator and while I suppose the mentioned bracket could be homemade, it was done awfully well, I do not know what kind of alternator is on the tractor. Maybe someone here could help identify but it has been working. don’t know if it was related but now I also have a radiator leak,possibly because I did not catch it in time and the fan belt was loose and there was some overheating.. at any rate searching for a MF 135 alternator bracket have only seen one that comes close offered by Sutter Brothers, the engine mount holes, and the bracket appear correct but one of the ends for the alternator bolt is curled which prohibited it’s use… I don’t believe that welding or braising the part back together would be a wise idea. Maybe someone here can point me in the right direction I sure would appreciate it and thank you very much. Danc

135-410503 is the wrong format for a North American 135 serial number and 410503 is way above any 135 serial numbers I find. I am wondering if it is one built in Great Britian. Would you please post a picture of the tag showing the info and a couple of the tractor?

It is a Delco alternator mounted in a generator bracket as posted. If you can fab or have access to someone who can; it will be easier to repair the bracket you have or build a new one. Using the bracket, you have I would eliminate the unused ear and add one closer to the fan end to fit the base of the alternator, so the alternator is carried on two ears. maintain the same engine mounting holes and bracket offset to the front.
 
Thank you all for your replies, I assume then that bracket must be homemade . several things come to mind, have thought of taking it to a good welding shop have the joints welded back up and maybe get a thinner piece of material for a backer bar to help stabilize ,I could easily make the holes much larger on the backer bar to accommodate the preciseness of the ones on the current bracket, also use a longer bolt to go all the way through ,from the opening to the left to the front of the bracket which would give more support. there are brackets available that have the two ears closer which would be better, but they do not have the offset holes to match the engine block.. I bought this tractor roughly 5 years ago in Tennessee and hauled it to Florida. it runs well enough. The hydraulics are good. I make sure that I do not shift in a hurry because sometimes ithe transmission locks up. It steers like a pig, a mechanic I know that used to be a Massey Ferguson dealer mechanic told me it looked like somebody put a different steering box on it not the original. if used hard like mowing tall pasture grass after a while oil pressure drops pretty low, but it will work for quite a while. posting some shots of the tractor feel free to comment. I appreciate it thanks. Danc
 

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Thank you all for your replies, I assume then that bracket must be homemade . several things come to mind, have thought of taking it to a good welding shop have the joints welded back up and maybe get a thinner piece of material for a backer bar to help stabilize ,I could easily make the holes much larger on the backer bar to accommodate the preciseness of the ones on the current bracket, also use a longer bolt to go all the way through ,from the opening to the left to the front of the bracket which would give more support. there are brackets available that have the two ears closer which would be better, but they do not have the offset holes to match the engine block.. I bought this tractor roughly 5 years ago in Tennessee and hauled it to Florida. it runs well enough. The hydraulics are good. I make sure that I do not shift in a hurry because sometimes ithe transmission locks up. It steers like a pig, a mechanic I know that used to be a Massey Ferguson dealer mechanic told me it looked like somebody put a different steering box on it not the original. if used hard like mowing tall pasture grass after a while oil pressure drops pretty low, but it will work for quite a while. posting some shots of the tractor feel free to comment. I appreciate it thanks. Danc
It's the factory generator bracket, not homemade.

That tractor is not supposed to have an alternator like that on it. If you have it welded back together you can put everything back and it'll be just as good as before.

This is where the serial tag should be, and what it should look like. What you show is some kind of corporate or municipal inventory tag, I suspect.
1757706805961.png
 
Well, OK thank you very much barnyard, I don’t recall seeing the plate or decal you show for serial numbers, but I will look, the gentleman that had it before me painted it with a brush so no telling what he might have covered up. the bracket welded back up is the easiest solution. If someone like yourself suggests that then that’s exactly what I will do. thank you very much, Dan
 
Well, OK thank you very much barnyard, I don’t recall seeing the plate or decal you show for serial numbers, but I will look, the gentleman that had it before me painted it with a brush so no telling what he might have covered up. the bracket welded back up is the easiest solution. If someone like yourself suggests that then that’s exactly what I will do. thank you very much, Dan
Ok, an update on this... It appears Massey built two different "135" models. One built in Detroit, which is the one I pictured, and one built in Coventry, England, which appears to be the one you have.

Notice how the hood is completely different in my picture. Notice how the gauge cluster is completely different.

There are two listings for the 135 model on Tractordata. Below is the listing for the Coventry model. The serial number chart for the European model shows that a tractor with serial 410503 is a 1972 model:

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/009/3/3/9331-massey-ferguson-135.html
 
Ok, an update on this... It appears Massey built two different "135" models. One built in Detroit, which is the one I pictured, and one built in Coventry, England, which appears to be the one you have.

Notice how the hood is completely different in my picture. Notice how the gauge cluster is completely different.

There are two listings for the 135 model on Tractordata. Below is the listing for the Coventry model. The serial number chart for the European model shows that a tractor with serial 410503 is a 1972 model:

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/009/3/3/9331-massey-ferguson-135.html


Other than the headlights on the front, his 135 looks exactly like mine, which is Brittish built too. Although his has a straight axle while mine has the swept back, (for lack of a better word), axle.

The hood fuel and radiator access door and the battery access door specifically. My lights are on the fenders.

Serial # says mine is a '65.



HPIM1141.JPG
 
As I thought earlier it is a Great Britain built MF 135. The pictures from one I found for sale in the UK on the Agriaffaires web site. The first picture is of the factory serial number tag. like the NorthAmerican tags it shows the build location. The second shows the location of where the tag should be, you might have four open holes in that area if the tag was removed. The third shows the dash layout. The tag you posted appears to be something made by a third party, not Massey Ferguson. If that is the actual serial number on the tag, I agree with Barnyard it is a 1972 built tractor.

I would get the break in the old bracket repaired and add another ear to match the base width of the alternator base, so the base of the alternator is clamped tightly, when the bolt is tightened.


MF 135 GBR SN tag 2.jpgMF 135 GBR SN tag location.jpg MF 135 GBR dash.jpg
 
Thank you guys for the information. It’s kind of a laugher for me in that I have four tractors how this happened I’m not sure. they all work, but they all have issues. The laughter part is they’re all foreign built tractors, go figure! I have a 1960 B- 275 international it’s British ,now I find out my Massey Ferguson is Brit, also two 1980s John Deere‘s from Germany.. I understand about the extra ear on the bracket will likely do that. The photos were interesting. Had you not told me that some MFwere built in Britain I would’ve just thought the gauge difference was due to model changes over the years.
 
Thank you, Hurley for the post. I have seen those very brackets in my search, but because the alternator on the tractor is not original, I don’t know that the two ears will be further to the front enough for the alternator , of course they’re not terribly expensive and I could try. Just not sure that the belt for the fan pulley on the water pump/alternator would all line up so if I can get the current bracket braised or welded that would be the the safest route for me
 
Thank you, Hurley for the post. I have seen those very brackets in my search, but because the alternator on the tractor is not original, I don’t know that the two ears will be further to the front enough for the alternator , of course they’re not terribly expensive and I could try. Just not sure that the belt for the fan pulley on the water pump/alternator would all line up so if I can get the current bracket braised or welded that would be the the safest route for me
Take a photo of the bracket I sent you take it to a welding shop in your area and have them make you one. You will be in the same shape with the old one welded up because you are one pickling up one half of the lower hole that makes the original bracket very narrow in that area . also you are placing a very heavy load with the alternator so far forward on the original bracket.
 
Bracket like that is not hard to make.

Would suggest that you use a bolt long enough to go through both holes with a spacer between the back hole and alternator. With just the bolt going through one hole the flexing caused by torque will just break the bracket again.

M&M Agra Parts has a kit for around $30 that may fit a 135.
SKU:MFAltBracket71

If it can't be made to fit. It should give you a good idea on how to make a good one.
 
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Take a photo of the bracket I sent you take it to a welding shop in your area and have them make you one. You will be in the same shape with the old one welded up because you are one pickling up one half of the lower hole that makes the original bracket very narrow in that area . also you are placing a very heavy load with the alternator so far forward on the original bracket.
Do you own a welder. What is your skill level working with metal. You could fab most of the parts with a 4 inch angle grinder with a cut off wheel. You can take a piece of paper and tape to side of the tractor and make a rubbing for the hole locations. The lugs can be cut out and drilled and welded to the bracket base. To hold the lugs in place clamp them in place with an angle to make sure they are 90 degrees to the bracket base. Hope you understand my simple and short message.
 
Well, thanks to you all I now know a lot more about this tractor than I did when I started. I came to the forum because I thought my skills at tracking down a bracket were not the best and that someone here would know where to get one. had no idea that originally this tractor had a generator and not a alternator. and that the alternator is a Delco.which is why I suppose I can’t find the same exact bracket. everyone’s comments are right on the money and I appreciate all of them . indeed I could make a bracket. It’s not that it would be to hard, more like very tedious. I want to go back with exactly what I had because I’m not sure of the other bracket that’s underneath the alternator and I don’t want to.open a can of worms and have to come up with something else at that end of things. I have some very heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal and I will fashion a piece wider than the bracket,drill extra large holes in it. Take the bracket and backer bar to the welding shop weld up the bracket, making sure to grind off the weld on the backside place it on the backer bar with holes lined up and weld the bracket to the backer,then it will be secure. also as someone here mentioned. there will be either a long bolt/all thread with enough thread for me to put a washer and a nut to the backside of the alternator that way everything is tied to the rear lug as well. this should work and it’s easier for me. I looked on the tractor for the serial number plaque mentioned earlier, but saw nothing not a trace of anything that was ever there. If the gentleman that has a British made Massey Ferguson 135 is still listening. I would like to ask is your tractor hard to steer? It’s a relative thing but mine is bear to steer. thanks everyone.
 
Well, thanks to you all I now know a lot more about this tractor than I did when I started. I came to the forum because I thought my skills at tracking down a bracket were not the best and that someone here would know where to get one. had no idea that originally this tractor had a generator and not a alternator. and that the alternator is a Delco.which is why I suppose I can’t find the same exact bracket. everyone’s comments are right on the money and I appreciate all of them . indeed I could make a bracket. It’s not that it would be to hard, more like very tedious. I want to go back with exactly what I had because I’m not sure of the other bracket that’s underneath the alternator and I don’t want to.open a can of worms and have to come up with something else at that end of things. I have some very heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal and I will fashion a piece wider than the bracket,drill extra large holes in it. Take the bracket and backer bar to the welding shop weld up the bracket, making sure to grind off the weld on the backside place it on the backer bar with holes lined up and weld the bracket to the backer,then it will be secure. also as someone here mentioned. there will be either a long bolt/all thread with enough thread for me to put a washer and a nut to the backside of the alternator that way everything is tied to the rear lug as well. this should work and it’s easier for me. I looked on the tractor for the serial number plaque mentioned earlier, but saw nothing not a trace of anything that was ever there. If the gentleman that has a British made Massey Ferguson 135 is still listening. I would like to ask is your tractor hard to steer? It’s a relative thing but mine is bear to steer. thanks everyone.
3/16" or 1/4" plain steel will be a better backer bar than galvanized sheet metal. Welding galvanized is no fun, and can make one sick if done much without at least a respirator.
 
thank you, Jim I think you’re right on all counts.. 3/16 would be as heavy as I would like to go and will do the job. It’s just that I have to go to a bit of a distance to get a piece but I very well may. I am well-versed with the galvanized issue, but it’s a small welding job and the effects should be negligible. usually a well placed fan will help with that. And a half a gallon of milk.😂
 
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