MF 175 stuck in reverse

Darby Clack

New User
Started a MF 175 the other day and ran good put it in reverse and it got stuck I had a bush hog on the back and it jack knifed up on it because the pull to stop is broke I can’t get it to come out of gear I’ve saw people go through the filler cap and pry the gear back but they say on an incline it’s hard to do should I hook a chain and pull it back off the bush hog onto level ground?
 
Hello Darby welcome to YT! The pull stop you are talking that is not working is the injection pump fuel control stop? Were you not able push in the clutch to disconnect the drive train from continuing to drive the wheels? Something is missing in your explanation.
 
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When I had it happen to me many years ago I went in by the filler cap you talked about, if you can get a second person have them put the clutch in and pull it to level ground.
If it is locked in two gears (low and reverse by the info posted), pushing the clutch isn't going to let it roll when towed. The lock up is between the clutch and differential. Find a way to secure the tractor from moving in either direction, then jack one rear tire clear of the ground to lessen the pressure on the gears in the transmission. Have someone rock the raised rear tire while you pry the stuck gears free.

When you get it free and moving, please, fix the stop cable before using it again.
 
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Place the HI/LO Start lever in the Start position, that will remove any gear tension, now a bar can be used through the oil fill to move the first/reverse shift rail back to neutral. If tractor STILL won't shift right you might have a broken shift fork, I've seen that happen before too.
 
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If it is locked in two gears (low and reverse by the info posted), pushing the clutch isn't going to let it roll when towed. The lock up is between the clutch and differential. Find a way to secure the tractor from moving in either direction, then jack one rear tire clear of the ground to lessen the pressure on the gears in the transmission. Have someone rock the raised rear tire while you pry the stuck gears free.

When you get it free and moving, please, fix the stop cable before using it again.
Thanks for the added understanding Jim! I had overlooked that possibility.
 
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Place the HI/LO Start lever in the Start position, that will remove any gear tension, now a bar can be used through the oil fill to move the first/reverse shift rail back to neutral. If tractor STILL won't shift right you might have a broken shift fork, I've seen that happen before too.
Just adding info, the HI/LO lever may not shift very easily if there is a lot of tension on the gear train holding the rear wheels from turning.
 
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It SHOULD with the clutch pedal fully down.
Yep, you are correct. Sorry about my error. Maybe you could help me out with this. If this tractor is equipped with one how might a Multi-power(MP) play into this situation? We only had one tractor with a MP a 1080, been 20 years plus since I operated it. I am much more familiar with gear locking caused by IH mechanical TAs. The MF MP If working correctly should release the stopped tension on the one-way clutch if shifted to low is that correct? Also if the engine is off and there is no hydraulic pressure the MP high clutch should not be applied which would also allow no locking by the MP, is that correct?
 
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That is a common issue with older MF tractors. The usual cause is attempting to shift gears before the gears have stopped moving. DieselTech is right.


I still have the long chrome screwdriver I used to pry the gear back in place. After I was told why I got the gear stuck, I waited until the gears stopped spinning to shift, and never had to use that screwdriver again.
 
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Yep, you are correct. Sorry about my error. Maybe you could help me out with this. If this tractor is equipped with one how might a Multi-power(MP) play into this situation? We only had one tractor with a MP a 1080, been 20 years plus since I operated it. I am much more familiar with gear locking caused by IH mechanical TAs. The MF MP If working correctly should release the stopped tension on the one-way clutch if shifted to low is that correct? Also if the engine is off and there is no hydraulic pressure the MP high clutch should not be applied which would also allow no locking by the MP, is that correct?
Yup, engine has to run for the MP High range clutch to engage for hill hold and engine braking. The Lo side is a one way jaw type clutch that I've never seen fail like the one way roller clutch can over time. The MP has no effect on the trans sticking in reverse or first gear with engine off. As an OLD MF mechanic what causes most shifting trouble is trying to shift TOO FAST. What USUALLY happens is when going from first to second, the shifter will be in the 2/3 rail notch but the trans will be in reverse because the first/reverse shift rail moved so fast it missed the center/neutral detent and ended in reverse. I tell guys SLOW DOWN when shifting, it AINT A HURST!!
 
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Yup, engine has to run for the MP High range clutch to engage for hill hold and engine braking. The Lo side is a one way jaw type clutch that I've never seen fail like the one way roller clutch can over time. The MP has no effect on the trans sticking in reverse or first gear with engine off. As an OLD MF mechanic what causes most shifting trouble is trying to shift TOO FAST. What USUALLY happens is when going from first to second, the shifter will be in the 2/3 rail notch but the trans will be in reverse because the first/reverse shift rail moved so fast it missed the center/neutral detent and ended in reverse. I tell guys SLOW DOWN when shifting, it AINT A HURST!!
Okay thanks Rich! Does a 175 have a ground drive PTO option like a 65? (we also had a 65 with no MP) I don’t understand this part; he said “it got stuck I had a bush hog on the back and it jack knifed up on it because the pull to stop is broke I can’t get it to come out of geaI(r)” Only thing I can figure is he was running in ground drive with no over running clutch and the blade momentum put him somewhere he didn’t want to be. I am also more familiar with gearshifts. When they have this problem more times than not it is the shifter tip fails to pull it out of reverse or second and slips back into the neutral slot. So then you have to select another gear to cause it to lock up. If you move the gear lever back to neutral, it is only stuck in the one gear, and the transmission is not locked so it can be moved if the clutch is held down. If that all makes sense.
 
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Started a MF 175 the other day and ran good put it in reverse and it got stuck I had a bush hog on the back and it jack knifed up on it because the pull to stop is broke I can’t get it to come out of gear I’ve saw people go through the filler cap and pry the gear back but they say on an incline it’s hard to do should I hook a chain and pull it back off the bush hog onto level ground?
Darby, the forum shows you have been back to view your thread. Help us out with a few more details.
 
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Okay thanks Rich! Does a 175 have a ground drive PTO option like a 65? (we also had a 65 with no MP) I don’t understand this part; he said “it got stuck I had a bush hog on the back and it jack knifed up on it because the pull to stop is broke I can’t get it to come out of geaI(r)” Only thing I can figure is he was running in ground drive with no over running clutch and the blade momentum put him somewhere he didn’t want to be. I am also more familiar with gearshifts. When they have this problem more times than not it is the shifter tip fails to pull it out of reverse or second and slips back into the neutral slot. So then you have to select another gear to cause it to lock up. If you move the gear lever back to neutral, it is only stuck in the one gear, and the transmission is not locked so it can be moved if the clutch is held down. If that all makes sense.
The MF 175/180 models with the two stage clutch would have the ground drive PTO option, the HYDRAULIC PTO clutch never did. The 65 ONLY had the two stage clutch. The ground drive is taken from a gear on the ring/pinion INPUT shaft mostly used for hay rakes MF and Ferguson had built.
 
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That is a common issue with older MF tractors. The usual cause is attempting to shift gears before the gears have stopped moving. DieselTech is right.


I still have the long chrome screwdriver I used to pry the gear back in place. After I was told why I got the gear stuck, I waited until the gears stopped spinning to shift, and never had to use that screwdriver again.

Also ensure when shifting that the true "H" pattern is used.

By that I mean moving the shifter in the "H" pattern and not applying side pressure on the shifter before it reaches the neutral position to make quicker shifts.

Take your time shifting in straight line and you will likely never encounter locked gears again.

At least that's been my experience with these old girls.
 
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Jacked the tractor up today leveled it out gear popped right out I appreciate yall now gotta figure out why they ignition switch isn’t getting power adjust the clutch and brakes and she will be ready to go 👍🏻
 
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Does that MF have the positraction lock feature? Short pedal/ lever behind your left heal attached to left rear axle housing? Won't cause what you are describing but usually puts a bind on things especially if you are trying to turn. Stomp down on pedal to lock both right and left tires together, lift up to disengage posi lock. Lets tractor roll easier unlocked so hopefully can get tractor moved or out of gear ideally.
 
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