MF 202 Photos and problems list. Any advice welcome.

[Black Flag Forge]

Ok, I'm back and have the bull at the barn and starting my fix list.

Dash:

Ordering all new gauges.

Might forge some decorative ironwork into this old steering wheel and save from replacement.

Small lever to the left of my throttle that's broken, what is this and does anyone have a part number for replacement?

Steering:

Power Steering res seems to have been cranked down so hard the lid is now concave instead of convex as I have seen on other photos. I want to pound this back into shape as I fear it collecting water and contaminating further as I have found some rust inside.

All four PS hoses need to be replaced and I plan to DIY the hoses if I can find compatible screw on connectors for the pressure of this system. Leak can be seen in the pathetic state of these hoses at the video below.

Steering column upper most seal under the steering wheel is blown out and also leaking fluid onto my dash and down into my shifters. Hoping this is a simple gasket kit fix?

Cylinders/Hydraulics:

Two large cylinders on the hoe have small seeping leaks so I'll be ordering a few repair kits and probably the unscrewing tool for them.

The controls have a few weeping spots as well and I'm not sure if its an internal o-ring or the connection itself.

Probably forge a replacement lever for the broken outrigger control unless I can find something on the cheap to replace.

The front PTO pump seems to be working ok and the little bit I played with the loader and BH seemed to have enough power but I might be interested in more if its an option? Again this is all new to me. Here you can see one line has an adapter to increase the size of the hose, I can only guess this is why they torched out the frame to get it to fit. Because of this I question if the backhoe needs this large line or if it was just something an owner had around and was cheaper than doing the job correctly??

Cooling:

Water pump replacement is on the way and I hope its just a simple swap. The leak seems to be coming out from behind the fan pulley so I suspect a bad bearing seal from the pump side? Its a very light leak that doesnt always run, not sure why till I get it off I guess.

Radiator has a number of brazed patches but I'm going to say if it aint broke...

Fuel system/Air:

Just got the air cleaner today and setup with wedges to measure the pipe I'll need to cut and bend to connect to the barb... this entire assembly was missing the entire time the last owner had it and that scares me a little.

In the photo it might not be clear but the throttle lever assembly is not connected to that second rotating disk? I'm going to browse through the workshop service manual tonight and see if I can find any more info about how its supposed to connect with the rest of the unit and rod.

PTO or lack-there-of?

So this model was one that didnt come with any pto parts, beind that plug is nothing but my empty trans housing and the gears of my diff. Does this mean I have no interal hydraulics pump at all as it wouldnt have any use without a working PTO?

Also in the photo- Random quick splice on one of the lines to the BH.. this thing seems to have been pieces together out of scraps. I want to replace each line with the proper length and mounting options.. but thats gonna cost me. Quick question though: Does the size of these hoses reflect the requirements of the attachment? Someone seems to have torched the front frame to fit in this larger hose at some point... Also in this photo check out that master class of bodge in holding the filter onto the return lines with wire twisted around my power steering coupling... awesome. I'll need a new way or place to mount this proper.

Pedals and Shift/Shuttle Lever:

So she likes to fall out of forward if I dont keep a little pressure on the shuttle, how bad is this? Power when driving in low 1-3 seems fine but I've not messed with high much as I have no reason or space on my land to use it at the moment.

The broken/missing pedal above the brake foot rest, what is this/what does it do??


The Backhoe:

Can anyone tell me the idea behind this slide rail system? Was it to loosen the bolts then make a correction in a trench or something? I cant imagine that this poor little unit is very stable with the massive weight of the BH off set to the corner of this mount.. Lots of cleaning needed here to find all my leaks.

I guess thats all for now, here is a video of startup, I think she sounds terrific for 55 years? I have all new fluids on the way with new filters for each department. Using the 6-7 Gallons of 90(Ford) for the trans and SAE 30 HD for the oil. I think I read the power steering requires the 90 hydra/trans also? Thanks everyone for any help along the way!

https://youtu.be/FnP3NUviAmM

 

[Jim.ME]

New tractors are fun and exciting, like this one, the source of many projects. If you can find an operator's and parts manuals for it they will help you. The operator's manual usually has most of the lubrication info (level checks, type of lube, and frequency, etc.).

To hit a few things. The little lever, broken, to the left of your throttle is likely not a lever, but the dash light. I don't think the fitting on your pump increases the size of the hose, that is the common shape of a pipe street elbow. The hose sizes look about right for a hoe. The hoe may have been added, not originally on it when sold. That could explain why things look the way they do. The hoe frame slide set up is to allow digging closer to, or along, a foundation or other obstacle. The hoe would be swung to the opposite side and folded, tight to the hoe frame, when moving with the hoe slid to one side, that helps with the balance. Those frames usually had a cylinder, to slide the hoe tower, tucked up in the top of the frame, does yours?

A word of caution. Study and diagnose things carefully. Jumping in and changing things because it doesn't look right, or not finding the true cause of a problem, can get very expensive. Unless you are going for a 100% correct restoration, function many be more important than looks. JMHO.

Have fun and enjoy.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Good tips, thanks.
My operators manual is on the way and I just received the service manual yesterday. This lever I've seen in photos or videos as about 2" long, mine currently can rotate all the way around and seems to be connected to nothing? I know the broken stub on the lower dash next to the horn should be my headlights right? But this one pictured I've no idea.

If was wondering how the slide worked, I figured you would loosen a few bolts then lift and move with the boom? If mine has cylinders to slide I don't see any way they were mounted or operated at the moment.

I'm tempted to order the Davis 220 manual also for help with the BH. The only reason I was questioning the hose is because of that torch work on my poor nose.

Thanks again and looking forward to more info!
Oh how does she sound in the video, I've never heard a 202 run just more modern motors and this sounds similar.

 

[Caryc]

The broken/missing pedal above your right foot rest is what is left of your foot throttle pedal.

It's really a shame to see a piece of equipment in that shape. That poor thing was really rode hard by someone that didn't believe in maintenance. Good luck. It sounds like it's in good hands now.

There are other MF202 threads going on here now. I'm the one that's upgrading my power steering system as BIG1RED9 has done.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Excellent and thanks, I'll hunt down more threads as I'm slowly reading through them. I just came back inside to see if I can figure out how to remove the PS reservoir. The can is a bit rusty inside that I need to clean and I cant remove the feeder hose without lifting it slightly. My thought is maybe I need a forked tool and slide a small bolt through the cap nut down inside and unscrew that to pop it off?

 

[Jim.ME]

That is not a broken lever in your dash, it is the dash light assembly - broken/missing parts. This picture is from a TO35 parts book but the light assembly is the same. Item key # 46. HTH

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 11:21:49 08/18/19) Excellent and thanks, I'll hunt down more threads as I'm slowly reading through them. I just came back inside to see if I can figure out how to remove the PS reservoir. The can is a bit rusty inside that I need to clean and I cant remove the feeder hose without lifting it slightly. My thought is maybe I need a forked tool and slide a small bolt through the cap nut down inside and unscrew that to pop it off?

I had to remove the PS pump to fix a leaking o=ring seal between the reservoir and the pump body. If I remember right, I stuck the body of the pump in a vise. Then I stuck the small end of a 3/8" allen wrench through the hole and used a crescent wrench on the long end to unscrew the nut. If you're going to work on the pump, I suggest you just pull it out to work on it. If you're going to remove that reservoir, I'd suggest you have a new 0-ring to put in there.

The pump is not hard to remove if you know a few tricks. The back nut to remove the pump is a pain to get at. Take a look at the pic below. If you put a ratchet strap on that bottom radiator hose and the loader frame, you can pull that hose up just enough to get a socket on an extension on that back nut. It doesn't take much to raise that hose just a bit, otherwise you'll play heck trying to get at that back nut. No need to disconnect either end of the hose either.

In one of your pictures, you can see how close to the distributor the pump is. When removing or installing the pump, just rotate the reservoir 90 degrees toward you. When installing, keep the top of the reservoir facing you and stick the drive gear through the hole and match up the gears, then just rotate the reservoir up to the top and install the three bolts.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

These are the best tips, anything that saves me from removing a part to get to another part hahah.

Mostly I just want to make sure I've cleared the rust from the reservoir as the pump itself is in good working order so far as I can tell. I'm thinking though maybe I'll plug up the exits and hit it with a scouring pad then rinse and wipe down. I've hammer the dome back into the lid now and it fits much better though I'll need to replace that 5" gasket that was torn apart on mine.

Thanks a bunch and keep the tips coming, I'm getting my sponge on and trying to absorb as much tractor info as I can.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 13:39:20 08/18/19) These are the best tips, anything that saves me from removing a part to get to another part hahah.

Mostly I just want to make sure I've cleared the rust from the reservoir as the pump itself is in good working order so far as I can tell. I'm thinking though maybe I'll plug up the exits and hit it with a scouring pad then rinse and wipe down. I've hammer the dome back into the lid now and it fits much better though I'll need to replace that 5" gasket that was torn apart on mine.

Thanks a bunch and keep the tips coming, I'm getting my sponge on and trying to absorb as much tractor info as I can.

As far as the PS fluid leaking out of the top of your steering column, you need to read the threads posted by BIG1RED9 and Caryc dealing with that column and power steering.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Wow ok cool, I didn't mean to sound doubtful I just didn't understand how it's got anything to do with a light? So it's like a tiny deal lamp for my dash? Lol

 

[Black Flag Forge]

*desk lamp. Would love to be able to edit or posts

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 15:38:44 08/18/19) *desk lamp. Would love to be able to edit or posts

As would we all. YT is a great forum for tractor owners. The "no edit" thing is a real pain though. It causes a lot of unnecessary posts.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Well I just dumped 300 into the 6 power steering lines and was told they don't really make my fittings anymore. So I guess this is how it starts.

 

[2tractors]

I'll add a tidbit about the ps pump. You can order the cheaper pump from a diesel model and install your spiral gear then it fits your gas model.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

good to know if mine end up going out and, hopefully it won't knock on wood but now I've jinxing myself mostly I just needed some new lines that weren't spraying fluid everywhere. I was told that it's a combination of automotive and hydraulic line which they don't really make anymore. Phased out fitting issue.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 08:33:39 08/19/19)
good to know if mine end up going out and, hopefully it won't knock on wood but now I've jinxing myself mostly I just needed some new lines that weren't spraying fluid everywhere. I was told that it's a combination of automotive and hydraulic line which they don't really make anymore. Phased out fitting issue.

Where did you purchase those lines? Below you see pictures of how my PS setup is right now before I do the conversion. In the first pic, you see the lines up on the column. the line on the left is (I assume) a stock line. The line on the right is not. The one that was on there previously was the same and it blew out on me. I just removed that line and took it to Napa and they made up a new one for me. So you don't really need those stock lines that go from tubing to rubber hose. The second pic is how those two lines hook up at the pump.

The third pic is of four new lines for my conversion. They all have JIC6 connectors on them. Also pictured are the connectors needed to switch to JIC6 connections.

I purchased those new lines at a hydraulic shop in my area. A good hydraulic shop should have any type of connectors and adapters you need and will be able to make up the lines you need.

If you're talking about the lines that connect to the cylinders, I don't know about them. Those lines on my tractor all seem to be good so I will use them on the conversion.

Maybe Don will come along and have some more advice for you.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Some updates but first a reply:

I used "Superior hose and fittings" in lexington ky. They have tons and tons of fittings big to small and they have converted me to something that will make the connection as yours seems to have. I did need my 4 replaced that connect to the cylinders as well as the two feeder lines to the pump. He did cut one of my metal lines further up because the old section was so damaged.. I told him I needed that thinner section to fit behind the manual steering arm but he didnt listen. My frustration is fairly high right now but I'll see what they've done later today when its all finished and I hope it works or I'll try the shop in the next town over.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

Quick question on the PS Filter, the old unit had a felt like washer floating inside, looks like I can add it under my new filter and it will fit into the recess, Was this someones silly attempt to replace a rubber gasket as shown on the parts diagram?

Now my next issue and fear, How screwed am I?

While draining my milk substitute from the trans I was dragging gunk out with my picks and found this gem with battery for scale:

 

[Black Flag Forge]

So the hoses I got back were mostly makeshift.. frustrating to say the least. my power steering now doesnt seem to be working much. Probably because to make my right side fit the hose looks like a pigtail... So that wont fly.

Did the diesel wash of the trans case and drain. added my ford 90 and changed the oil. I'm still having a hard time getting into gear without grinding, guessing that clutch related? It also slips out of gear without pressure on the shuttle. *sigh* Feeling like I got a cursed tractor.

 

[Jim.ME]

Welcome to the world of used equipment. I wouldn't say you got a cursed tractor; you got a used tractor. Some problems are visible, some aren't. Did you actually try it out before you purchased it? The chance of a surprise, good or bad, is always there. If you're lucky adjustments may cure some of your driveline problems. For best results, read and follow all the steps in the manual's (I believe you said you had ordered manuals) instructions when checking things out and making adjustments.

You are going to need the serial number for your tractor at some point. The tag you posted is only for the loader attachment: Model 200. The tractor should have its own serial number tag. Look around the dash and dash cowl for that one. I expect there maybe a tag some where on the hoe attachment as well.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 05:14:46 08/21/19)
Welcome to the world of used equipment. I wouldn't say you got a cursed tractor; you got a used tractor. Some problems are visible, some aren't. Did you actually try it out before you purchased it? The chance of a surprise, good or bad, is always there. If you're lucky adjustments may cure some of your driveline problems. For best results, read and follow all the steps in the manual's (I believe you said you had ordered manuals) instructions when checking things out and making adjustments.

You are going to need the serial number for your tractor at some point. The tag you posted is only for the loader attachment: Model 200. The tractor should have its own serial number tag. Look around the dash and dash cowl for that one. I expect there maybe a tag some where on the hoe attachment as well.

I'm one of the unlucky ones that has a 202 with no serial number tag on it, only four little holes on the dash where it used to be. I know there are others in the same situation.

However, I was able to get the serial number off the tag on the engine and found out that my engine was made in 1958, so that helps some.

 

[Inno]

I also have no serial number tag on my 202. Just from the small clues I can find with regard to minor changes in parts etc. from the Agco site, I figure mine is probably a 1959. So far that has worked for me.
Regarding your machine being cursed, no. I was once in your shoes......well I still am in a way, but my level of awareness is much greater now. You can sink a LOT of money into these old machines and still find it needing a whole lot more. I figure, just on what I spent to keep my machine working, I probably could have bought a much newer used mini excavator........but where's the fun in that?
My advice......unsolicited of course.....is this:
1. Make it do what you need it to, no more
2. Don't ever think you will fix every problem
3. Don't ever expect it will be ready to work, surprises pop up....regularly
4. Don't expect it will complete the job you are working on without being fixed at least once, at least until you get all the bugs worked out
5. Don't worry about cosmetic details. Once you get it functioning properly in a mechanical sense, you likely won't have any money left anyway.....
6. Plan to have one (or more) parts machines available. This has saved me much time and money, although it meant disassembling a running, driving, fully operational TO35 with one cylinder that kept fouling plugs. Transmission back are now on my 202.

Some of this is tongue in cheek, but there is a lot of reality there. These machines are what they are, old, industrial tractors. As such, they have been used and abused and often not properly serviced. That being said, I would do it again, but I'd probably have paid a whole lot less for it to start with.

I'm sure there's a lot more to be said, but on a positive note, the fact that there are so many of these machines still in operation is a real testament to the quality and engineering built into these things.

 

[Black Flag Forge]

I'm back, thanks for the replies and sorry for the late responses. We have a newborn along with our other kiddos so not everyday can be a barn day.

I completely forgot to upload all my serial pics when I got the machine, she's a 64. Here are my tractor and Davis BH plates:

I've been using the agco schematics along with my manuals to sort through my progress.

Noticed yesterday my transmission case is probably from a 35 as it's red compared to the rest of my industrial yellow.

I disconnected my lines from the front hydraulic pump (that things a lot smaller than expected) then pulled my radiator, fan shroud, and finally the fan and pulley with my water pump. I probably didn't need to replace it but it's was $30? The gasket was broken, missing a piece and had some blue silicone like substance in a very poor attempt to fix a past problem. So that's all done now. I gave the radiator a pressure test while it was out and amazingly it only has one pinhole leak at the top seal while the rest of the body is covered in repairs that are holding. I'll braise this and reinstall tomorrow.

Next up is a complete drain of the hydraulic tanks and I would like to flush but not sure what to use, diesel again? The leaks I have on the backhoe control levers are my big issue and I guess I'll start pulling each and checking seals.

I forged a new air cleaner to carb pipe into shape and added some radiator hose connections so she can breathe again and I think that's about the latest.

Oh, the hose and fittings company replaced the line they didn't match the fittings with correctly so those are going back on with some new type a fluid and fresh filter. I guess once these jobs are done I'm ready to work a bit? Fingers crossed.