MF 230 clutch not engaging

[mdunntul]

I recently purchased a MF 230 at auction and found that the clutch will not engage. I lowered the rpms and was able to get in gear but pushing the clutch petal did absolutely. I ended up pulling back in to neutral. I was checking the transmission/hydraulic fluid and learned it would not even register on the dip stick. Would the fluid be a reason the clutch does not work?

 

[MF#1]

It has a dry clutch so no, fluid level shouldn't cause your issue. I would get the level up by adding oil, UTF would work. There -should- be a plate under the clutch held by 4 bolts, remove them and look up inside while someone else moves the clutch(watch out for debris falling out) If a bunch of fluid comes out then your clutch is probably wet and won't engage properly. If so then a split is required to fix the failed seal in the trany and probably the clutch disc at a minimum. If not, then adjust the clutch pedal by the Operators Manual procedure. The throw-out bearing could be bad too which also requires a split. If you're lucky all you need is a pedal adjustment and maybe find out where the trany fluid went. Good Luck!

 

[mdunntul]

Thanks for a quick response, I will check out the inspection plate

 

[RM-MN]

The pilot bearing may be causing the problem. If it drags it will appear that the clutch doesn't disengage fully as it keeps the transmission input shaft turning. This also requires a split to access so even if this isn't the for sure problem, replace it while you have the tractor split.

 

[Jim.ME]

To avoid confusion. A clutch is engaged when the pedal is up (one's foot is off the pedal). When the pedal is pushed down/ahead the clutch should disengage. You are describing a clutch that will not disengage.

If the tractor had been setting for a time before you bought it a possibility is that the clutch disc has rusted/stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate causing it not to separate and stop turning when you operate the clutch pedal.

Look in the inspection plate opening and report back with what you find.

 

[mdunntul]

I got underneath and found that the inspection plate was missing. I believe they had a loader installed and and when they removed it they never put the cover on. There is some rust all over the inside and on the the clutch and springs. I have the clutch pedal locked down now. I have looked online and can t find a replacement clutch inspection plate cover. I did not see any debris indicating the clutch was disintegrating. What now?

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 23:31:44 10/25/23) I got underneath and found that the inspection plate was missing. I believe they had a loader installed and and when they removed it they never put the cover on. There is some rust all over the inside and on the the clutch and springs. I have the clutch pedal locked down now. I have looked online and can t find a replacement clutch inspection plate cover. I did not see any debris indicating the clutch was disintegrating. What now?

A cover plate is nothing special. You can make one from a piece of 1/8" (or thicker) steel plate. The part number is 520478M1. A web search using that part number turns up used and new aftermarket ones available to purchase.

Make sure the adjustment is correct to start with. Guessing you do not have any manuals for it to guide you. There is one, free to access, that covers the 230 (and some others) at

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1245637/Massey-Ferguson-Mf230.html

Others will be along with methods they have used to free stuck clutch discs that you can try before doing a split for a full-blown clutch job. Use the search function and you will find many threads here about stuck clutches and freeing them.

 

[mdunntul]

Thanks Jim, I truly appreciate all your patience and help with this. I found a copy vet just as you said and it is on its way. I will search on the topic of free the clutch.

 

[used red MN]

Hello mdunntul welcome to YT! Here is my suggestion
to try however fore warning it has some risks involved.
Please keep in mind that with a clutch that is stuck
engaged only 3 things will stop the tractor, shutting
the engine off, yanking the shifter to neutral or killing
the engine by applying the brakes. Hopefully you have
some terrain available and an open area. One of the
keys for this to work is getting the tractor moving in
the highest gear possible. Sixth gear would be ideal
but it takes a fairly knowledgeable operator to
accomplish that, we will shoot for 5th or 2nd position
of the tall lever an high position of the short one. The
reason for the terrain is the following. I do not think the
transmission allows you to start the engine in gear. So
get yourself a clear path. Start the engine and idle it
place the tall lever in 1st, then pop the short lever into
lo. Drive the tractor to the top of an incline and direct it
down hill. Shut off the engine, hold the brakes and put
the transmission in neutral and restart. Place the tall
stick in the second position release the brakes and let
the tractor roll as gets some speed up pull the short
lever into the high position there will be likely be some
gear grinding. Once it is in gear head to an open area
and raise the engine speed to 3/4 throttle. Hold the
clutch pedal down and hit both brakes hard as if you
intend to slide the tires. The brake application may
need repeated 8 -10 times. Hopefully this will jar the
clutch plate enough to get it to release from the
flywheel and or pressure plate surfaces. If not splitting
the tractor and disassembling the clutch will be
required.