MF 255 external hydraulic leaks.

[65plymouth]

Need a bit of help. Posted recently about a 255 that I recently acquired. I was going to send it back to the dealer that sold it to me, but decided I am going to keep it after a bit of negotiation.

Long story short....this thing has a lot of hydraulic leaks. Main sources of leaks are the external filter housing, the rear remotes, and every single connection where lines meet the valve body. The tractor came with one set of rear remotes from the factory.

My questions....How big of a job it it to tear into the filter housing, lines, and valve body to fix these leaks? Would I be better off replacing the hard lines with regular hydraulic lines. Seems that any time those hard line get bumped, they start leaking. Other than lines and a replacement filter, what other parts do I might I need. Are there replacement valve bodies available if I find mine is bad or the inlets are stripped?
Thanks

 

[Danielfire50]

Some of the leaks may as simple as
replacing the o-rings depending on were
it's leaking. They get hard and stop
sealing well. Where on the valve body is
it leaking?

 

[Danielfire50]

Can you post pictures of what is leaking?

 

[65plymouth]

Thanks for the response.
Based on what I can tell every connection to the valve body is leaking. Some areas more than others.. filter housing is leaking as well. All the pics are on my phone and for some reason having a hard time uploading them. Hit choose image, and the upload and nothing happens.

 

[65plymouth]

All the lines are leaking. The two or three lines coming into the valve towards the front of the tractor (hidden by the top cover and L-shaped valve mounting bracket) appear to be the worst. The line towards the rear (with my finger pointed at it) appears to be cocked a bit.

The filer housing is leaking pretty good as well

Is there a replacement valve assembly available? With soft lines? [/img]

 

[Danielfire50]

Take one of connections apart and see if
it is an o-ring type connection.
The last pictures I posted I had to use
the modern view. The classic view wouldn't
work for me.

 

[65plymouth]

I will pull the seat off and remove the top cover tonight to see if I can get better photos of the issues. The lines that are leaking the worst or hidden towards yhe front of the valve body.

Once I drain all the fluid and tear into it I am 100% committed. So I just need to get an idea of what I am getting into. I am wondering if replacing the valve with an aftermarket kit might be my best bet..

 

[Danielfire50]

Im not shure but those don't look like o-
ring type fittings. The kinked on your
pointing at will probably need to be
replaced. Are all connections tight?

 

[Danielfire50]

I don't if know if aftermarket valve
would be better or not.
You shouldn't need to drain the fluid to
work on that. You will lose some fluid but
not much.

 

[Dieseltech]

If I recall the last 265 I worked on used steel tapered sleeves on the large lines, try using a wrench on each line nut and see if they will tighten up a bit. Also look at each line closely, they COULD be cracked and need replaced. The smallest line is a return bleed line with little pressure, rubber sleeve grommets are used on that line. Maybe the grommets need replaced as they can be torn over time.

 

[FinnMD]

Don't know your location, but in southern PA
there is a good MF parts shop, new and used,
that I have used for many years and he gets
hard to find parts. Also does rebuilds.
Nolts Equip 717.776.6242. He doesn't have a
website, family business. Honest folks. I'd
stay with stock setup, replace lines and
fittings.

 

[65plymouth]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I going to rip into it tonight and see how far I get. I am hoping the valve body isn't messed up. I will check into the OEM lines FROM the source Finn mentioned, but think I might be able to re-use some that I have and possibly have a few made up.

Can anyone tell me part numbers for o-rings I may Need? I am still waiting on my manuals. I know I will need the filter housing o-ring. Already have the expensive element ordered from Amazon.

Thanks. I will take some more pics.

Anything else I should know before I get my hands dirty?

 

[jimmi]

Parts diagrams are available from Acgo.com
Link is page you are interested in.
http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/651351&page=318

I also have a 255 but with the Perkins AD4-205. I have had my lines disconnected a couple of times and never had a problem with them leaking. Just make sure they are fully seated and straight so the nut can slide on the pipe. Did have to replace the hoses as one blew one time.

 

[65plymouth]

Thank you!.
So I have the valve body completely removed as well as all the lines. The lines are in pretty bad shape. Found a few kinks, one has a tiny split, and another is messed up where the tapered seat is. Tried putting a wrench on it a and the line spins freely no matter what.

So. I think I may have a couple soft lines made up. There is a local shop that specializes in hydraulic lines and will make whatever you want.


The tractor had a "whine" sound in neutral with the clutch out that I was complaining about in a previous thread. I think it is whining because it is low on fluid from all these leaks. At least I hope so.

Here are some pics for those interested. Does anyone know what the best way to clean all the gunk off the valve body is. I don't want to mess anything up.

 

[65plymouth]

Oh...and my IPTO lever is super loose. And idea what holds it on. Is there a set screw or something?

 

[FinnMD]

should also replace those remote hydraulic hoses while you're at it. I just replaced mine on the 265, cost me about $55 to have local NAPA auto shop make them, not cheap but they were fast. I'd take time to get everything cleaned up real good and oil/sludge off tractor so you can identify other leaks, etc. I use cheap oven cleaner, and also GUNK when its on sale.

 

[65plymouth]

Thanks. I was Leary of using brake cleaner to decrease everything as that stuff is pretty harsh on runner seals etc. Mainly just want to get the valve manifold nice and clean for now so I can see what I am doing. Will address the mounting location before I put it back together.

Is there anything wrong with having all soft lines made up? I was searching online last night for the filter housing o-ring and couldn't find it. I can imagine finding aall the hard hydraulic lines will be quite the task.

 

[Danielfire50]

There may be better options but i often
use diesel to clean parts.
A mix of Orange oil, dish soap, and water
make a good degreaser. That would more of
a pre clean before disassembly. mix it up
in a pump up garden sprayer. Spray it on
and let it sit scrub what you can then
rinse off with pressure washer. Some
stubborn deposits will require full
strength Orange oil.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

I think it is a split pin or as we call it a roll pin. That is what is on my MF65.

 

[jimmi]

The Agco part catalog link may not be the correct one for your tractor. There are a number of pages depending on single or dual spool valve and tractor serial number range. You will need to find the correct page for your tractor.
If the filter o-ring for your tractor is 359110X1 (4-3/4: ID x 1/8) this is a #248 o-ring. It can be found on several sites. O'Reilly Auto parts has them for $3.99.

 

[65plymouth]

Thanks Jimmi. I appreciate it. I think the filter housing are the same. The lines may be different and that is something I will need to figure out. I guess it won't matter if I just have a bunch of soft lines made. We shall see.

 

[jimmi]

Some of the lines may have too hard of a bend for a soft line. I did find listings for some of the hard lines, but I don't know which you need.
Do you know if the PTO is "Live" (3 positions on pto lever) or "Independent" (2 positions on pto lever)? Hard pipe lines are different for each.

 

[65plymouth]

Thanks Jimmi. I am 99%sure mine is independent PTO meaning that when I pull the lever back on the left side of the seat, the PTO shaft starts spinning. When I push it forward, it stops. If I understand correctly the regular live PTO is operated with a lever and a two stage clutch. Is this correct?

 

[ptfarmer]

(quoted from post at 06:50:04 01/29/18) Thanks Jimmi. I am 99%sure mine is independent PTO meaning that when I pull the lever back on the left side of the seat, the PTO shaft starts spinning. When I push it forward, it stops. If I understand correctly the regular live PTO is operated with a lever and a two stage clutch. Is this correct?

That's correct, with live pto you have push the clutch all the way down, with independent you don't use the clutch. Another thing with independent pto is, is that it has a brake to hold the pto from spinning when its not in use. Before you stop the Ipto idle the engine down for a little bit, and let whatever you have hooked up the pto slow down. The Ipto brake is not made for stopping equipment that is running at operating speed.

 

[65plymouth]

Thank you. Good info. I think I am just going to take all the external hard lines off the rear of the tractor and take them to s hydraulic shop down in the city and have new ones made up. At least let them humor me with a piece to have them made up. I will try and keep the steel lines and convert the rear outlets lines to hose. I am sure it won't be cheap.

Can't really find much OEM stuff as far as the steel lines are concerned. I am hoping the manifold isnt messed up. I would hate to get it all basck together and realize the valve body needed replacement.

I am stuck until I can haver the lines made up. Hydraulic shop is about an hour from here.

 

[65plymouth]

Headed to the hydraulic shop yesterday with 6 lines in a home depot bucket. Shop is going to remake the 2 remote hoses and the smaller line that was kinked in the previous photos. The other 3 larger lines (2 go to the manifold) and one goes to the filter housing (still on the tractor in the pics) could not be re-made.

Shop said they could make up the tubing but were not familiar with the male fittings with tapered ends. They said they have never seen them before. Luckily, I may be able to reuse the 3 bigger lines. I thought one was split but after cleaning them it appears the should be fine.

 

[ptfarmer]

If one of the metal lines were split, or a had a crack all the way through you would have noticed it.