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MF 30E Restoration

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J

JackofallMasterofNone

Member
Hello fellow tractor enthusiast. I am new to this game and it excites me. I consider myself handy however this is all very new to me. I am familiar with gas engines but not diesel. The reason I took on this project was to educate myself further with diesel motors. I got this tractor for a steal knowing it would be a struggle but I enjoy the challenge. I figured I would start with the fuel system. The guy I bought it from had it running two months ago however with much effort no success. I am working my way through ordering all the correct parts for the fuel system in order to completely rebuild what he has done. I received this fuel system with a in-line pump completely bypassing the fuel lift pump. I am also noticing from the service manual I purchased/ fuel system diagrams I can find online that there is a starting helper unit that seems to T off between the fuel lift pump and the first of two fuel filters.
So far I have the replacement:
fuel lift pump.
Fuel injection CAV rebuild kit
Water separator
Fuel filter

My issue is trying to figure out if I am restoring this back to OEM specifications, It is intensely hard to find the right diagram. If anybody knows the exact flow from tank to injectors it would be huge.
I am swallowing my pride in joining this wonderful group in an effort to learn more as Im not one to normally ask questions. Thank you in advance for all the stupidity I ask.
 

Welcome to the Forum.

Do you have the serial number tag still on your tractor? That can be helpful when looking at parts books to get the proper parts as there were running production changes at times during model runs.

Not all MF30Es had the Thermostart option, so if you are not finding parts to one on your tractor, it may never had one originally. You will find things in the manual that were options that your tractor may or may not have been equipped with.

What service manual you you have? Title, publisher, and publication/part number if the manual has those. There are differences in manuals and there may be a better one someone may suggest you get. Do you have the parts book and Operator's Manual for the tractor? Those will help you as well.

As for the CAV injection pump rebuild, I think you would be best served to send it to one of the fellows on here that specialize in injection service. There are extremely close tolerances and cleanliness involved as well as special equipment to test and calibrate properly. Same for injection nozzles.
 
Also adding pictures will help at times. The site has spam filters that often require a new user to have 5 or more posts on record before they can post pictures. You can go down the index to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post pictures prior to that. Size, one picture or the total of several in a post, must be 7mb or less.
 
(quoted from post at 20:07:47 05/21/21) Also adding pictures will help at times. The site has spam filters that often require a new user to have 5 or more posts on record before they can post pictures. You can go down the index to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post pictures prior to that. Size, one picture or the total of several in a post, must be 7mb or less.
Click to expand...

Hey there! Thank you for your reply! I attached some photos I have found. The SN seems to be 900910 (havent found a lot on the sn matching anything I can find online) model 30E.
The SN on the side of the block reads: CE31115J738431L
From what Ive read, makes the Perkins a 1984, manufactured in Japan. Engine code D3.152.
On the service manual. I picked it up on Amazon. Orange cover. The description states its New print of an original equipment manufacturers (OEM) manual. (Not home currently to get more Info of it)
So yes I may have to take you up on the idea of the Injection pump being re-built by someone else. I have rebuilt makuni carburetors in the past which can have 100s of unique jet settings and be very sensitive to rebuild. I know these are not the same thing but wanted to give you where my mind is and my skill level. I thought it could be something I could tackle however Id hate to go through the whole process and it still not fire due to my experience level not being where it needs to be to rebuild it correctly. I have started to educate myself and have found the timing for the motor all revolves around this pump.
Anything yall can tell me from this info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

(Yep wont let me do photos yet. Ill ask for permission.)
 
(quoted from post at 23:48:23 05/21/21)
(quoted from post at 20:07:47 05/21/21) Also adding pictures will help at times. The site has spam filters that often require a new user to have 5 or more posts on record before they can post pictures. You can go down the index to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post pictures prior to that. Size, one picture or the total of several in a post, must be 7mb or less.
Click to expand...

Hey there! Thank you for your reply! I attached some photos I have found. The SN seems to be 900910 (havent found a lot on the sn matching anything I can find online) model 30E.
The SN on the side of the block reads: CE31115J738431L
From what Ive read, makes the Perkins a 1984, manufactured in Japan. Engine code D3.152.
On the service manual. I picked it up on Amazon. Orange cover. The description states its New print of an original equipment manufacturers (OEM) manual. (Not home currently to get more Info of it)
So yes I may have to take you up on the idea of the Injection pump being re-built by someone else. I have rebuilt makuni carburetors in the past which can have 100s of unique jet settings and be very sensitive to rebuild. I know these are not the same thing but wanted to give you where my mind is and my skill level. I thought it could be something I could tackle however Id hate to go through the whole process and it still not fire due to my experience level not being where it needs to be to rebuild it correctly. I have started to educate myself and have found the timing for the motor all revolves around this pump.
Anything yall can tell me from this info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

(Yep wont let me do photos yet. Ill ask for permission.)
Click to expand...

-I called a local company and got a quote for the rebuild of $459.00

Wanted to get your opinion on that or if you knew anybody that might be recommended on here?
 

I believe your Perkins was built in England as was the tractor, not Japan.

DieselTech and Al Baker (pumpman) are a couple injection service guys that post on here. Get details of what is included and what will be extra, in the rebuild where ever you have it done.
 
(quoted from post at 01:47:55 05/22/21)
I believe your Perkins was built in England as was the tractor, not Japan.

DieselTech and Al Baker (pumpman) are a couple injection service guys that post on here. Get details of what is included and what will be extra, in the rebuild where ever you have it done.
Click to expand...


Awesome thanks for that info. Ill reach out to them and get their opinion.
 

Anyone have any idea what fuel filter will work with this model? And if this model has the thermostart option. (I live in FL so if its a temperature thing I could probably leave it out Im guessing?
 
(quoted from post at 18:16:01 05/21/21)
Anyone have any idea what fuel filter will work with this model? And if this model has the thermostart option. (I live in FL so if its a temperature thing I could probably leave it out Im guessing?
Click to expand...

I think you posted it has two fuel filters on the engine, can you see any numbers on the filter elements? If it is the original type fuel filters, the center section is all you replace and they often have the manufacturer's name and part number on them. A parts store can interchange those numbers to get filters for you. If you can see any numbers post a picture.

As to whether or not that tractor has the thermostart, which was optional as a cold weather starting aid, some one has to physically look at the tractor and see if any of the parts to a thermostart are on it to know if it had one. Again some good pictures might help. If the engine is good, it should start in Florida with out the thermostart.
 
(quoted from post at 08:25:52 05/22/21)
(quoted from post at 18:16:01 05/21/21)
Anyone have any idea what fuel filter will work with this model? And if this model has the thermostart option. (I live in FL so if its a temperature thing I could probably leave it out Im guessing?
Click to expand...

I think you posted it has two fuel filters on the engine, can you see any numbers on the filter elements? If it is the original type fuel filters, the center section is all you replace and they often have the manufacturer's name and part number on them. A parts store can interchange those numbers to get filters for you. If you can see any numbers post a picture.



As to whether or not that tractor has the thermostart, which was optional as a cold weather starting aid, some one has to physically look at the tractor and see if any of the parts to a thermostart are on it to know if it had one. Again some good pictures might help. If the engine is good, it should start in Florida with out the thermostart.
Click to expand...

Yes trying to get permission to be able to post photos as Im new to this forum. I asked the admins and I am waiting for a response. I bought a new water fuel separator that has the right threads so Im good there its the second one that I believe filters particulate. yes I should just remove it and looks so thank you for calling me out on that. 😂
 
Yeah while I was waiting for the rebuild kit to come in I was saving YouTube videos on the CAV injection rebuild and his gives you the why behind the how which is exactly what I like to know. so thank you for that recommendation! I wasnt set on which one I would use but I will use his for sure now. If I do the whole thing and get the fuel system back together and Im still having issues turning it over I will definitely pay someone to do it but Im going to take a stab at it first. Worst case scenario Im out 11 bucks but I learned.... mainly that its out of my scope.
 
Test 2 for photos. CAV injection pump and fuel filters
mvphoto75695.jpg


mvphoto75696.jpg
 
It looks like you are underway with your project. A few things that may help as you go along and have questions.

Many tractors get discussed here, so when you start another post don't count on people remembering your tractor. You are best to identify it again.

Please don't say gas pressure, gas tank or any other use of gas. You can end up with answers related to a carburetor, people don't always read the entire post. You have a diesel.

Serial numbers are generally on tags or stamped in a machined surface as your engine is, as shown in your pictures. The pictures of the raised numbers cast as part of components identify that component to some extent, however many are not even used as part numbers. A casting may have been used on hundreds of tractors so it doesn't help a lot, if any, with ID of the tractor. More help to confirm a part if you are buying used.

I prefer the fuel tank on, with fuel in it, and the entire fuel system complete when bleeding the system. To bleed it otherwise, using a temporary container, means bleeding it again when the system is assembled. Of course there could be exceptions where you need to run it to do other repairs and the tank would be in the way. In general anytime you open the fuel lines, change filters, or run out of fuel you may need to bleed the system.

The MF30E used a couple different transmissions, I believe, so you will need to post which one you have if you have a transmission question.

If you can, you might give it a bath. It is much nicer to work on if relatively clean and there is less likelihood of getting dirt inside as you remove and work on components. If you have gotten an Operator's manual you might want to get one of those. The Operator's manual generally has more of the lubrication and normal service info than the Service manual, as well as it has common adjustments and operating instructions.

If you don't have a parts book, and don't know about the AGCO parts books on line, here is a link you can click on to go to that site and info on finding your parts book to use.

https://apb.agcocorp.com/
mvphoto75732.jpg


mvphoto75733.jpg


mvphoto75734.jpg
 
We have a large cherry farm in Michigan. We have rebuilt one of these that was turned around to
drive backwards. It has a large forklift where the 3 point normally is. It also has the reversible
torque converter instead of a clutch. We love it! It is our favorite forklift. Those 3 cylinder
Perkins diesels are one of the best engines ever made. The fuel efficiency is unbelievable. This
tractor is really worth rebuilding.
 
I would second the idea to have someone rebuild the injector pump. There is a plunger inside the pump that is prone to stick. I tried to rebuild the pump on my MF65. It lasted all of 9 minutes. On my pump there are two sections. The first time I pulled the whole pump. This next time I plan to only pull the half where the injection lines connect and leave the front half that connects to the flywheel attached to the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 01:58:54 05/23/21) It looks like you are underway with your project. A few things that may help as you go along and have questions.

Many tractors get discussed here, so when you start another post don't count on people remembering your tractor. You are best to identify it again.

Please don't say gas pressure, gas tank or any other use of gas. You can end up with answers related to a carburetor, people don't always read the entire post. You have a diesel.

Serial numbers are generally on tags or stamped in a machined surface as your engine is, as shown in your pictures. The pictures of the raised numbers cast as part of components identify that component to some extent, however many are not even used as part numbers. A casting may have been used on hundreds of tractors so it doesn't help a lot, if any, with ID of the tractor. More help to confirm a part if you are buying used.

I prefer the fuel tank on, with fuel in it, and the entire fuel system complete when bleeding the system. To bleed it otherwise, using a temporary container, means bleeding it again when the system is assembled. Of course there could be exceptions where you need to run it to do other repairs and the tank would be in the way. In general anytime you open the fuel lines, change filters, or run out of fuel you may need to bleed the system.

The MF30E used a couple different transmissions, I believe, so you will need to post which one you have if you have a transmission question.

If you can, you might give it a bath. It is much nicer to work on if relatively clean and there is less likelihood of getting dirt inside as you remove and work on components. If you have gotten an Operator's manual you might want to get one of those. The Operator's manual generally has more of the lubrication and normal service info than the Service manual, as well as it has common adjustments and operating instructions.

If you don't have a parts book, and don't know about the AGCO parts books on line, here is a link you can click on to go to that site and info on finding your parts book to use.

https://apb.agcocorp.com/
mvphoto75732.jpg


mvphoto75733.jpg


mvphoto75734.jpg
Click to expand...

Such great info Jim! yes I will try and not use the word gas. Old habits hard to break. Thanks for the tips on where to get the books to further this project.

Today I rebuilt the top end of the fuel injection pump. It seemed rather straightforward and went back together.... well not without some curse words as the pinion for the spring likes to sneak/bounce away. Replaced the fuel lift pump as well as the fuel filter, and water separator. I bleed it to the top end of the fuel lift pump and tried it... nope. I know probably air locked as I need to bleed it to the fuel injectors. Ran out of steam so tomorrow is another day. If I get it running expect a video of a happy dance. Cant thank you enough for your knowledge and support.
 
I cant imagine the work to turn it around my lord lol. So glad you mentioned this as I am still unsure of the purchase. I did look for over a year and buying a non-running machine was lighter on the wallet but when its in the yard and not useful your mind plays tricks on you. Thank you for your feed back and Ill make sure to keep you updated!
 
So back at it again. Want ahead and took the damn thing off. Im going
to take one more stab at rebuilding the whole thing as I have no
pressure at the injectors. Ill throw it back on and if I still have no
pressure Ill pay somebody to do it LOL. Thought Id keep you all up-to-
date.
cvphoto89539.jpg


cvphoto89540.jpg
 
[video play=false:b7fbf0caf5]https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/videos/mvvideo79031.mov[/video:b7fbf0caf5]

Well I rebuilt the CAV injection pump and as soon as I tried to start her the starter went. So I rebuilt the starter and bled the lines and boom! She fired. She starts right up now.

So now on to the hydraulics. I believe my 30E had a mf35 front loader and 2 spool hydraulic valve diverted which is seized. Does anyone recommend a good replacement part? I ask because I have a backhoe attachment for the PTO that I will be using with the tractor and Im not sure what hydraulic valve i should go with as I will need to tie into the hydraulics for the backhoe. I know there is a diverter that I can instal near the PTO but can I also add it to the new diverter spool? Sorry if this is a dumb question Im learning as I go. Thank for all the help so far!
 
So I had terrible blow by and started with a complete overhaul. (I first sent her to ag pro to do so I could get it done quickly and after a month and a half, they did nothing. They where lost on what to do and how to work on this tractor. They returned it) I am back at it! I have the whole front end off and am going through the motor currently. My question is I havent seen a clutch in any videos like this. Can anyone shed some light on why this looks different than anything Ive seen?
mvphoto85938.jpg



This post was edited by JackofallMasterofNone on 12/18/2021 at 02:02 pm.
 
My second question is regarding the clutch lever. It is completely frozen. Whom ever had the tractor prior to myself owning it also had the reverse and forward foot pedal locked together. Why would someone do this? As well as what part would you believe needs to be replaced? I do plan on putting in a new clutch but am curious what the pros here would also replace to make everything function as it should. Thanks in advance!
mvphoto85940.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:13:57 12/18/21) My second question is regarding the clutch lever. It is completely frozen. Whom ever had the tractor prior to myself owning it also had the reverse and forward foot pedal locked together. Why would someone do this? As well as what part would you believe needs to be replaced? I do plan on putting in a new clutch but am curious what the pros here would also replace to make everything function as it should. Thanks in advance!
mvphoto85940.jpg
Click to expand...

hi
the tractor has a instant reverse gearbox operated by a torque converter which is fitted instead of the clutch you can see the control valve in the bellhousing the forward reverse pedal should pivot to alow forward or reverse valvre to be engaged
 
(quoted from post at 01:54:26 12/22/21)
(quoted from post at 15:13:57 12/18/21) My second question is regarding the clutch lever. It is completely frozen. Whom ever had the tractor prior to myself owning it also had the reverse and forward foot pedal locked together. Why would someone do this? As well as what part would you believe needs to be replaced? I do plan on putting in a new clutch but am curious what the pros here would also replace to make everything function as it should. Thanks in advance!
mvphoto85940.jpg
Click to expand...

hi
the tractor has a instant reverse gearbox operated by a torque converter which is fitted instead of the clutch you can see the control valve in the bellhousing the forward reverse pedal should pivot to alow forward or reverse valvre to be engaged
Click to expand...


Awesome thank you! Do you know if the solenoid or any of the electrics control the valve? Someone cut all the electrics and the only thing hooked up currently was the starter. I do plan on getting all the gauges working and have the book but Im unsure if the valve works on a electric system or not. Thanks again for the info!
 

near the foot plate on the right hand side there is a 3 point pedal check that it swivels up and down and sideway as the sideways movement works the control valve that controls the direction of travel one side is forward the middle is a foot throttle to increase engine speed when lifting the loader etc and the third pedal for reverse the pedal moves the rod in the control valve inside the belhousing if its working correctly either of the outside pedals should increase engine speed and engage forward or reverse mechanically to the valve in the bellhouseing you can see the shaft in the picture which should be connected by a rod to the 3 point pedal the brakes are on the opposite side of the gear box in the position where the clutch should be and can be locked together if required
 

Thanks for the info! About to work my way through the steering column and the rest of the transmission. Thought Id update everyone following where I am currently. About to finish up the motor! I need to paint the exhaust and steel fuel lines and I can set it as side until Im done with the rest of the restore. Glad to have 1 big milestone complete.
mvphoto88294.jpg


mvphoto88295.jpg
 
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