MF=35 Coil

[Roger37]

Roger37
08-22-2007 17:44:38
64.12.116.17
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Well I'm back...found out it wasn't the coil as I switched it with one from another MF-35. By the way, it was an internal resistor coil as I had 12 volts at the ignition switch side of the coil with points closed and key on. Still don't get any spark from the coil (held the coil wire 1/4" from ground ). Also, when I put my coil on the other tractor it started right up. Someone told me it's the regulator, but I thought that only had to do with the charging system not the primary starting system? It turns over real strong, just has no spark. Ideas?


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[Aaron Ford]

An engine will run perfectly fine without a charging system While the battery holds up anyway, so that ain't it.

Check your points. Place a 12v light across the hot and cold side of the coil, with the coil disconnected. It should flash when the engine is cranked.

If it does, you are looking at a coil or a coil wire. You have ruled out the coil, so that leaves the wire.

If it does not, turn to the distributor. With your test light on 12v+ and the distributor stud, crank the engine. The light should flash. If it stays on, your points are stuck closed or your condensor is grounded. If it stays out, your points are not closing.

Adjust points as necessary.
Make sure they are opening and closing. Use a nail file to dress up the contacts. If you do not have a feeler gauge to check clearance, use a matchbook cover. Adjust when the arm is at full height. This should let it make contact when it lets off the cam.

The condensor is used to ensure that the points do not arc themselves to death. It is not necessary for testing purposes. If everything else checks out disconnect the condensor and test again.

By the way, check the wire between the distributor and the coil (-) stud. If this wire fails, then no spark.

HTH Aaron

 

[David, Surrey UK]

See my reply in your other post.

David