MF Work Bull Z134 Timing ?

[Gord William]

Hi all.
I have a 1964 202 work bull that I bought a while back. Ive just
completed installing the front axle and wheels after replacing pivot
pin and bushings and blah blah , long story. Still havent installed the
water pump or front nose but want to know before its completely
back together if the engine runs ok.
(Backstory) When I first bought it it was running but idle high and only
ran with the choke on. So when I had the gas tank off I tightened the
intake and exhaust manifolds. Found several loose nuts on manifold.
Noted exhaust manifold had been welded so didnt wish to remove
the manifolds and replace the gaskets for fear of making my situation
worse. So after torquing the manifolds I reinstalled the gas tank and
replaced the sediment bowl. I then did a propane test but couldnt
seem to get it to surge so I continued. But before I reinstalled
everything else I wanted to see if the hi idle was better. I think it may
have improved as I didnt seem to have to use the choke. It still idles
fast. Next I replaced cap, wires, rotor, condenser. ( a general tuneup).
I noted the distributor # 1 plug wire is off 90 degrees from my other
tractor TO35 with the same engine. I found I even had to really
stretch the #4 piston wire to reach the cap. Hmmm that doesnt seem
right. I tried to orientate the wires the same as my TO35 but the
tractor wouldnt even fire. Anyway so I put the wires on the 202 back
to the way it was when I bought it and started the tractor and it
maybe ran a little better but still rough. I managed to get the idle
linkage adjusted to get the idle down a bit. Then I timed it by ear and
its running a better but still kinda rough but I got the idle down. I will
pick up a timing light but my question is this. Shouldnt this
distributor be the same orientation as my TO35 tractor? Is it possible
to have it turned 90 degrees and it still run or does it really make a
difference. Its not 180 degrees its 90. Does that mean its firing 1/2
way through the down stroke and thats why it still runs? I could pull
the distributor and turn it clockwise 90 degrees but I suspect that
wont do anything. Maybe I have to move the chain on the sprocket
or should I just time it where it is? Thanks for your input.

 

[Dieseltech]

Low idle speed timing is set to six degrees BTDC on number one cylinder. Engine has timing gears, no chain. The distributor cap #1 wire can be anywhere, IF distributor has been removed/replaced.

 

[Stan Coryell]

What Dieseltech said. My timing was way of when I got it. Like 30 degrees BTDC. It still ran. The distributor is missing the locator for the dust cover. That could of had something to do with it. If the firing order is wrong, I doubt it would run. Timing is easy, crank #1 to TDC on the compression stroke (the fly wheel is marked),where ever the rotor points is #1. Mine is about 5 o'clock. If my wires are the right length, if should be closer to 3 o'clock (#4 wire is short) at some point I'll pull the distributor, and move the rotor.

I think you have a fuel problem. What are your compression numbers?

Stan

 

[Gord William]

I think I should have known it was gears but I didnt. Lol. Thanks for setting that straight. I will eventually remove and reinstall the distributor but that will have to wait for right now. I appreciate your reply. Gord

 

[Gord William]

Ahhh so Im not the only one with a turned distributor. I will put the old longer #4 wire back on for now as the new one is really a stretch. I too will eventually remove and reinstall the distributor but for right now it will have to stay as is. I need to concentrate on getting the tractor out of my shop for the winter. I have an overhang to park it under once I get it running better and the rad and nose reinstalled. I still have to get the hydraulics working again. Ive just got the new pivot pin with bushings in it and just finished the hydraulic pump drive shaft so once I get the front end with the rad on and water pump installed I will check the compression and get a timing light. The fellow who had it before me rebuilt the carb and he said when he did that he found a piece missing. Anyway he said he replaced the jet or whatever it was that was missing and he said it ran good. He said over time he had to use more and more choke to keep it running and the rpm increased. Those symptoms made me think vacuum leak ( after everything I read on this site). Anyway as I said in my original post I found some backed off nuts on the intake/exhaust manifold so I torqued them to spec. and did a propane test. Couldnt get the engine to surge with the propane so I assume if there was a vacuum leak its at least better now. I will try another propane check in a couple days with the lower idle rpm and see if it still comes up negative for a vacuum leak. I didnt do a propane test before I torqued the nuts because I had too much of the tractor disassembled. Thanks for your reply.