Mf135 won't start

[Mutton]

Evening,

Have acquired a mf 135 along with the house in France.
Old battery was very run down. So have put in a new battery. (Previous owner said it was all fine but just needed a new battery).

Doesn't start still. Turns over etc,. Have tried undoing the fuel lines where they go into the injectors and fuel is getting to the injectors.

Having trawled through lots of stuff I have gleaned that I should replace fuel and filters and possibly lift pump. (No diesel was coming from the fuel lines when they were undone and I was pumping the lift pump).

Also, possibly replace the starter motor.

But before I start on all that sort of route, is there anything more basic/obvious I could try?
It looks to have a heater plug. Should this get noticeably hot if touched near it after cranking over the engine for a few seconds?
There looks to be a shut off valve under the tank. Which way should this be to be fully open? (Guess this is of no consequence to me as there is fuel at the injectors)

There seems to be a small diesel leak from around the primary fuel filter.
Last use was maybe between 1 and 3 years ago.

I think that's about all I can think of for now. But thanks for reading and for any info.

 

[Jim.ME]

Lift pump won't put fuel to the injectors. The engine must be cranking, the injectors need high pressure fuel from the injection pump.

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Bonsoir, that would be our perfect dream!!!!
Looking at all possibilities and starting from scratch. Your 135 is likely to be French-made although it is possible
that it is of UK origin. The operation of most components is the same but the actual parts may be of a different
make, eg Lucas in the UK and Ducellier or Paris-Rhone in France.

If the tractor has been standing for any length of time it would be advisable to drain the fuel tank. There is a well
at the rear of the tank where debris can collect and at the least restrict the flow of fuel. When you remove the fuel
tap from the tank there should be a nylon strainer (like a sewing thimble) mounted on it. If no strainer is present
the tap can block very easily. Check for presence of any water coming out of the tank.

The next point will be the lift pump. If it is the glass-bowl type there will be a strainer mounted above the glass
bowl retained by the rubber ring. This can block easily too. Remove both pipes from the lift pump noting the arrow on
the body signifying the supply from the tank. Operate the pump manually and diesel should be seen to be pumped from
the outlet side. Place a finger over the inlet port and operate the lever. If the pump is working you should feel the
suction on your finger. If there is no feel of suction there may be debris under one of the valve seats or the valve
may have come out of the cover.

When refitting the pipes wrap some white PTFE tape around the olives. This will help to prevent any leaks. Moving on
the filters will be next. They should definately be changed. You will need 2 CAV 296 type filters or the local
suppliers equivalent. There will probably be a glass bowl water trap under one so be careful when you remove it. The
new filter will have 4 rings with it The larger of the two fits on top of the filter and the smaller below. Use a
small screwdriver to prise the upper ring from its recess. The large O-ring fits the centre tube on the filter body
and the tiny one fits under the head of the retaining screw. If a glass bowl is fitted ONLY TIGHTEN SUFFICIENTLY TO
PREVENT A LEAK. If over-tightened they have a habit of breaking when you walk away!!!!!!!!

Replace the fuel and open the tap and vent screw on the filter body. The leak that you mention can probably be cured
with some PTFE tape. On the side of the main pump are two small screws with 5/16AF size heads. Open the lower one
first and operate the lift pump until a jet or at least a strong trickle of fuel comes out. Tighten. Repeat the same
with the same with the upper screw. Slacken the three injector nuts, no need to remove them completely. Open the
throttle fully and turn the engine over on the key. Spits of fuel should be seen to come from each injector nut.
Close the nuts and attempt to start. Hopefully it will start.

Although you have a new battery make sure that all connections are good and that the starter is delivering sufficient
speed to start the engine. The heater plug should be felt to warm its surrounding area after about 15-20 seconds of
holding the key in the HS position or if French it should have something like 'chauffage a demarrer' in the
instructions. If the compression is poor the heater may help to start it but with the weather that we are having in
the UK at the moment which I presume is the same wherever you are in France, it should not be needed.

Let us know how you get on.

Ciao

DavidP, South Wales

 

[Mutton]

Ok thanks for all that info.
I'll start trying all that as soon as I can, which won't be straight away as although I see getting the tractor running as a priority, I don't think the boss does. She has other plans for me.
But I'll try it all as soon as I can.
Maybe I'll get a heat gun and try that too.

Yes it is a French made mf. And does have a glass bowl next to the lift pump and a glass bottomed primary filter.

And yes, it has so far been awesome moving down here to the Charente. Barns full of awesome stuff including the tractor just left. Great fun going through it all.

 

[John Deere D]

Try as per pictures....
I would have SHUT off control in Run position with throttle at least 1/2 open..


Bob...MF FE 35 X.

Bob...Owner MF FE 35 X

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Very envious. Spent several years
researching possible move to Lim or Char.
Near suicidal Brexit farce put it on hold
for time being at least.....one day, who
knows.
Tell the 'Boss' that I said it's
essential to get the tractor going
first!!!!!!
DavidP

 

[Mutton]

Thanks for all that extra info John Deere.
Always useful to have pics.
I'll give it a try as soon as I can and let you know how things go.

To Davidp, the Brexit fiasco and the kids ages (not to mention property prices, weather, and land at 1k per acre) sort of sealed it for us after 15 years of think aing about it.

 

[Mutton]

Just a quick update...

Tried bleeding the filters and the pump.
But made no difference.
The next proper step is to get new
filters and new fuel.
But before that I tried using some heat
to start it which worked. Usually does I
suppose.

Done that a couple of times and let it
run for approx 15 minutes each time.

At least I know that it does basically
work.

(Having said that tried it again since
and not even a click from the starter.
Think the vibrations from it running may
have dislodged a wire).