Mf202 axle pivot shaft

[Eazycheeze]

Hey guys so earlier in the year I realized I need to do my pivot shaft ( the hollow shaft that the pump drive shaft slides through). No bushing were in in either side. The pivot shaft pin removed very easily. After different efforts I decided to go buy a 50ton press which is amazing by the way. Anywho so heres where I am at. I got the pivot shaft too start moving around 15ton and thats about all it takes every time I get it too move however, because the axle and the carrier are 2 different pieces, when I press onto the pivot shaft, the axle moves out of center and I cant get enough Center downward force. My question is , how do I keep the axle from moving when pressing the shaft out . Im no pro too presses so I am learning but there has to be a easier way. Or maybe for the rest of the way I opt for a sledge hammer as Ive moved it almost to the point where the shaft is flush with the axle on the back side. If there was at least a bushing on the front it would keep the pivot shaft Center. So maybe I need to find tubing that fits between too keep it true. Heres some pics

Ps: I am not doing any fancy milling or sleeving. Just installing bushings on both ends as this is a beater tractor and I dont need perfection. And the wear is less than a 1/16th

Any tips appreciated!

 

[Stan Coryell]

The service manual uses a slide hammer.
I think if you get the axle blocked up in your press (sort of let the carrier float and only press on the axle) might do the trick. A 4 pound hammer and a heavy brass pin may also do the trick.

Presses and pullers work best when you have them against something solid. Sometimes a sharp blow with a heavy hammer will get things moving.

Most of the bushings on your tractor require reaming to size after installation. I don't know about the pivot bushings. The manual doesn't say.

The is also a procedure to shim end play. AGCO still has the thrust washers and shims. They are an odd OD.

 

[ptfarmer]

When I did mine I had to cut that pin out with the torch (a 20 ton press wouldn't budge it). I made a new pin out of some 2" round bar because I couldn't find a replacement pin anywhere.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Hey thanks ya that seems the easiest however mine is moving
every time I get a solid 15ton on it but because the axle is
blocked up properly ( not sure how to accomplish that yet) it
moves and I go sideways on the pivot shaft and it wont pop. So
tonight Im either sledge hammering it on the ground because I
can block the axle or Ill have to make a second press pin that
holds the axle Center under pressure



And thanks Stan much appreciated! I tried the slide hammer
originally and it didnt even budge. But now since Ive broken
the rust seal Im sure I can get it to move slowly at a time .



Ill report back if I figure out a way on the press! Thank you

 

[Eazycheeze]

I also wonder if I could make a threaded rod puller with 3:4 to 1 rod and a thick plate on both ends, 1 on the shaft and the other on the flange, hmm

 

[Stan Coryell]

AGCO has the pin. Not cheap.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Yup precisely why Im avoiding cutting it especially since I have it moving. Starting to tinker on it. See how a sledge hammer goes

 

[Eazycheeze]

Well great news. I used the press to hold the axle firm but not too tight as too put pressure onto the pivot shaft into the carrier. And took about 1h30 with making up punches too fit the axle shaft diameter and length and a 8lb sledge. She gave. Glad this all worked out.

So quick question when I do reassemble and press the pivot shaft back in, how far does the shaft go into the axle and carrier, until the flared front edge of the shaft bottoms out I suppose? Thanks

 

[Jim.ME]

No wear on the pin where the bushings ride on it?

 

[Jim.ME]

No wear on the pin where the bushings ride on it?

I believe the pin and axle should be a slip fit, not pressed together.

The pin should be locked into the axle with a flat sided taper pin, which is pulled tight with a nut on the threaded end.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Hey Jim.me



I totally had a blond moment and forgot about that pin. That
would make sense. My shaft actually has 2 indents almost
identical on it like manufactured where the pin sits . Im sure one
of the indents will go to the proper length and the other will be
shorter in the bushings.



Well like I said before not sure in this topic or not. There was no
bushing in the engine side carrier, and that did wear the ID very
small amount, measured about less than 1/16 I thought about
taking the old bushing and cut it up and grind it too smack
between the new bushing and the carrier too prevent my
bushing from wearing odd but I figure the amount of use I use
this tractor it should be alright. I dont feel like dumping
hundreds of dollars too get it built up and milled or sleeved.



The shaft had a half moon wear line in it wear it was pressing
onto the carrier however based where its sitting on the bushing
it wont wear or interfere. Its in the dead zone where the
bushing does not rub on it.



I figured its a slip fit as I test slip fit it already and got it half way
in. I cleaned it pretty damn good.



The only other question I wonder is the bushings arent as wide
as the carrier width so I decided to line the grease zerk holes
with the pre drilled holes on the bushings and called it a day.

The front bushing ended up being flush with the carrier at the back (away from the snap ring indent) and the engine side bushing ended up sticking a 1/16th out the back of the carrier towards the engine for the grease zerk holes too work. Either it was some bad pre drilled holes and it’s wrong or that’s how it’s suppose to be

This post was edited by Eazycheeze on 09/12/2023 at 07:23 pm.

 

[Eazycheeze]

I ll try and snap some pictures if I remember tomorrow before assembly of the worn ID on the carrier on the engine side and of the line on the shaft but over all after the abuse the previous owner did and lack of maintenance I d say it actually wore out very well. And I was very pleased that I only had to get up to 15 ton on the press before it gave way and dint have to get into the 30s or 40s. That s a lot of pressure.


Excited to close this up and get my loader that I tracked down for a year , functioning. Next I ll be doing the custom build for a new orbital steering assembly as mine is leaking like a sieve!

Also have to do some clutch adjustments and install a custom 3pth stabilizer I made up while I waited for a press!

Thanks

This post was edited by Eazycheeze on 09/12/2023 at 07:19 pm.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Well it all went together smoothly, bushings slid in with some tapping, didn t have to bore the bushing out it was the correct ID. Put those two in and the shaft and bolted the pivot pin In place in less then an hour. Nice and tight! Now too get the loader frame under the tractor before the front axle and bolt it all up together!

Here s some pics of the wear