Mf202 fluid , brakes , throttle , new to me

[Eazycheeze]

Hey guys I just bought a mf202 which has the plow attachment and mower and post auger and a snowblower anywho, its been sitting for years and managed too get it running. Cleaned carb thoroughly, opened and clean the sediment bowl and just finished cleaning fuel tank. Adjusted the clutch free play. Bit of this and that.

Anywho it needs complete fluid changes too be safe.

So far Ive cross referenced a oil filter Napa 1010 and a power steering filter napa 1653.

Im going to use 10w-30 for oil and use some for the air filter oil bath.
I got all the coolant needed too flush it.

Now for the questions.

For the fuel strainer mine is either missing the strainer or its inside the bowl as in picture. If it is I tried cleaning best I could not sure how else but spray brake clean back and forth and air. How would I know its plugged should it be a steady flow or lots of drips? Or is this just a sediment bowl and I should buy a strainer ?

Now for the other oils , Im confused by all the posts of type of fluids and specs and having a hard time finding local. What modern day as today fluids can I get nearby? Dont need fancy fluid just need proper fluid.

I know I need gl1 spec or green mineral apparently?

Need to know the fluids for

Diff / Power steering / hydraulic ( all the same fluid right)
Transmission ?

Ive read lots of posts and everyone says different stuff, different spec standard, I just need oil!!

Is there any other fluid missing? And how much do I need? I found a few different fluids amounts as well. My manual is in order so I have no clue.

Also for the transmission and air filter do I just clean and reuse? And is there a screen in the air filter I need too clean as well?

Any proper methods I should do.


Also the power steering works pretty good however is it normal too have resistance for a second as soon as you turn then it gets easy ?

As said I also adjusted clutch free play , as my gears grind a bit going into gear, does not slip. Just doesnt seem like the clutch is slowling the gears down, is this normal for some grind and if not can I adjust the clutch through abscess hatch somewhere?

Second last, my throttle handle had no effect on motor until half too full it actually does raise rpm. So I adjusted linkages for the travel too max at max on the pivot for carb and the min for complete idle. It was perfect but as soon as I hooked the spring up I know have idle to half on the handle which half is full throttle, is there proper procedure or is this common on these too have dead spots on throttle handle? I have a digital tachometer coming so I can aim for 450 rpm idle exactly and adjust linkages from there and carb.

Last but not least, tractor feels like it has no brakes. I see rod and linkages, and assuming its drums so it should have adjuster and access slot , I will attempt but can I tighten the brake rods and whats the free play I should have for brakes?

Thank you very much any 1 question answered is helpful!!

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 23:38:03 06/28/22) Hey guys I just bought a mf202 which has the plow attachment and mower and post auger and a snowblower anywho, its been sitting for years and managed too get it running. Cleaned carb thoroughly, opened and clean the sediment bowl and just finished cleaning fuel tank. Adjusted the clutch free play. Bit of this and that.

Anywho it needs complete fluid changes too be safe.

So far Ive cross referenced a oil filter Napa 1010 and a power steering filter napa 1653.

Im going to use 10w-30 for oil and use some for the air filter oil bath.
I got all the coolant needed too flush it.

Now for the questions.

For the fuel strainer mine is either missing the strainer or its inside the bowl as in picture. If it is I tried cleaning best I could not sure how else but spray brake clean back and forth and air. How would I know its plugged should it be a steady flow or lots of drips? Or is this just a sediment bowl and I should buy a strainer ?

Now for the other oils , Im confused by all the posts of type of fluids and specs and having a hard time finding local. What modern day as today fluids can I get nearby? Dont need fancy fluid just need proper fluid.

I know I need gl1 spec or green mineral apparently?

Need to know the fluids for

Diff / Power steering / hydraulic ( all the same fluid right)
Transmission ?

Ive read lots of posts and everyone says different stuff, different spec standard, I just need oil!!

Is there any other fluid missing? And how much do I need? I found a few different fluids amounts as well. My manual is in order so I have no clue.

Also for the transmission and air filter do I just clean and reuse? And is there a screen in the air filter I need too clean as well?

Any proper methods I should do.


Also the power steering works pretty good however is it normal too have resistance for a second as soon as you turn then it gets easy ?

As said I also adjusted clutch free play , as my gears grind a bit going into gear, does not slip. Just doesnt seem like the clutch is slowling the gears down, is this normal for some grind and if not can I adjust the clutch through abscess hatch somewhere?

Second last, my throttle handle had no effect on motor until half too full it actually does raise rpm. So I adjusted linkages for the travel too max at max on the pivot for carb and the min for complete idle. It was perfect but as soon as I hooked the spring up I know have idle to half on the handle which half is full throttle, is there proper procedure or is this common on these too have dead spots on throttle handle? I have a digital tachometer coming so I can aim for 450 rpm idle exactly and adjust linkages from there and carb.

Last but not least, tractor feels like it has no brakes. I see rod and linkages, and assuming its drums so it should have adjuster and access slot , I will attempt but can I tighten the brake rods and whats the free play I should have for brakes?

Thank you very much any 1 question answered is helpful!!

It shouldn't take more than a few days to get the Operator's and Service manuals. Slow down on adjusting things, like throttle linkage, until you get the manuals and can see the proper ways to adjust things. The throttle lever, and carb tie together through the governor and some adjustments are related. Adjusting in the wrong place will throw it all off.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Thank you exactly why I did not proceed any more till I get manuals.

Im going to edit the post because Im mainly interested in the fluids
for now and its too big of post , thanks

 

[Usedtobeiowadave]

10W30 is fine for the engine. Don't quote me on this, but I think I'm running ATF for power steering fluid. Wait for your manual. I will say there are a number of serial# breaks for the various power steering pumps used on the 200 series tractors. There is no repair parts or aftermarket replacements for mine, OEM is still available but almost $600. I've lived with a whine in the power steering for a long time as a result. I don't have the hesitation you describe. Mine has the factory model 200 loader, I use a generic tractor fluid in the frame reservoir for the loader and use the same fluid in the trans/PTO case. Brakes: you probably have failed axle seals which have allowed oil to leak onto the brake pads. The old ones need to be cut off and the new heated and expanded when installing. You'll probably need a shop manual beyond the average owners manual that covers this or have a shop do it. You'll need new pads or have a shop re-line the old ones (as I did). Manuals: they sell them on this site. I've found the $ spent on the operators and owners manuals for the tractor to be $ well spent. I also have the parts manual for the tractor as well as the loader. Have used them enough to justify the cost. Air cleaner: it's an oil bath type, the cup on the bottom is removable. clean it out and fill to the line with the same oil as using in the engine. The canister above is filled with steel mesh (Think Brillo pad). Can be filled with dirt and old oil, take it apart and clean it thoroughly. Relace the mesh if degraded. Clutch: either too worn or not adjusted properly. I don't recall if this is covered in the owner's manual, may need a shop manual. As with the power steering pump(s), a number of different clutches were available/used over the whole production run of this tractor. You'll need to figure out which you have to use the right procedure and the correct alignment tool to put it back together if you end up splitting it. Grinding is bad, I'd get to the bottom of it before the repair cost increases. Note all the grease zerk locations and get them greased when you get the owner's manual. It should just have a sediment bulb with a screen inside. If it's missing or torn, get a new one. In-line fuel filters may cause more problems than they solve, I've never run anything but the sediment bulb. There's a right-angle fitting in the fuel line somewhere, can't recall if it's where the fuel line comes off the bottom of the fuel tank or where it goes in or out of the sediment bulb or into the carb. There's a small mesh-tube screen filter inside of it. Could be missing, dirty or damaged and restricting flow. New are available.

 

[Caryc]

Here's the fuel filter Usedtobe was referring to. That elbow is on the carb and the fuel line connects to it. My 202 started running like crap so I removed the plug in the carb bowl and checked the flow. It was not good. I removed that elbow and I could not even see sun light through the screen. Luckily I had a spare in my shed because the 8N uses the same exact elbow and screen. Tractor Supply carries those elbows with the screen on them.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Thanks for all that, I managed too track down oil , piston ring had the klondike utf tractor thats spec m1110, 117$ a pail Canadian which was impossible too find and pricey. But I should be safe using for power steering, trans/pto and diff.

Wondering if a different spec would be safe like m1135 or m1141 which I found cheaper than what I got. Anywho now I have all fluids I will be flushing everything and re gas letting some coolant plates for thermostat as it is leaking tiny amount.

I managed too find my old mf35 manuals which I have the owner/service and parts manual for. They should be near identical tractors minus the front end, so I will use them too a degree for now.

The clutch I found I had over 2 of free play in the pedal which is now set to 3/8. Next I will refer too the manual and check adjustment from the access panel underneath and see if its out of spec, should be able to snag the four bolts and adjust from there and see for any odd wear or try anyways.

The air cleaner what is recommended too clean the mesh? Degreaser, brake clean, kerosene? Or just a wood varnish of sorts?

The fuel elbow does not exists on this, will have to order.

Also found that part of the throttle linkages is missing the curved bracket with a spring for tension on the rod which could explain things thanks too the mf35 manual.

The brake has lots of play before any pressure is felt, I will try adjusting and see how the brakes feel and if no good I will remove the tires and at least see what Im up against if its a seal or rusted out brake components / worn. It has sat for 6 years.

Noticed the power steering fluid is not anywhere near full but not empty either. And looks rather contaminated with maybe water mixture, the cap was not on properly. Will do a good flush and proceed, more than likely thats the issue. On the plus side I found a new steering wheel for 30$ since the old one was destroyed.

Overall pretty simple tractor and with the manuals it should be easy based on the mf35. She runs good for how it sat 6 years. And rusty fuel tank which I am cleaning up now on the inside. Next week or two should be purring unless total chaos happens.

Thanks for all the info everyone much appreciated

 

[Eazycheeze]

By the way, I found a mf200 loader guy wants 1200 Canadian, bit overpriced? Though they arent common. Says everything works. Any fabrication needed for that model? Currently I have the or some snow plow on the front raise and tilt cylinders.

Also seems the last owner used a bank of levers mounted on the rear too control everything and has a third lever that controlled the 3pth. I thought the 3pth was used by the draft controls unless it stopped working so he re plumbed it or maybe I dont know what the draft controls are for yet. Would be nice too use those as the lever is jumpy lowering it. Works good though

 

[Eazycheeze]

So got my manuals, did a complete tuneup on distributor and plugs,flushed and replaced coolant, found some leaks fixed those, just have 1 leak left from where rad fan is attached assuming seal around shaft, do that one day. Also did rust removal inside gas tank and cleaned the bowl and filter in it . Carb was previously cleaned and adjusted. Found out Im missing the strainer for fuel that Ill purchase later on.

Did engine oil, air filter oil and mesh,cleaned crankcase breather, power steering flush. I made a j link for the governor and found a spring I made fit. Adjusted the brakes and clutch . Brakes now work and clutch I never got too try because as I was flushing power steering I cracked one of the 90 degree fittings so I need to get a new one tomorrow.

All I have too do is flush transmissions and clean filter in it. Also inspected the thermostat and its in pretty good condition. Going to try too figure where the steering housing fluid gets topped up and distributor oil And finish tuning carb and governor. All said and done the moment I tried turning over it started and idled without choke as it previously did. Ran like it came out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is.

Replaced a hydraulic hose that had a cut, steering wheel. Got the tire tube in read fixed and holding air Cleaned the electrical up with new ignition switch and cleaned up the alternator as well. Productive weekend.

 

[Caryc]

"ame out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is. "

You have me confused with the above. Is this a gas engine? On the gas engine, you fill the reservoir by removing the top on it and pouring in the fluid. I don't understand what you are talking about with "housing for power steering".

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 19:58:13 07/03/22) So got my manuals, did a complete tuneup on distributor and plugs,flushed and replaced coolant, found some leaks fixed those, just have 1 leak left from where rad fan is attached assuming seal around shaft, do that one day. Also did rust removal inside gas tank and cleaned the bowl and filter in it . Carb was previously cleaned and adjusted. Found out Im missing the strainer for fuel that Ill purchase later on.

Did engine oil, air filter oil and mesh,cleaned crankcase breather, power steering flush. I made a j link for the governor and found a spring I made fit. Adjusted the brakes and clutch . Brakes now work and clutch I never got too try because as I was flushing power steering I cracked one of the 90 degree fittings so I need to get a new one tomorrow.

All I have too do is flush transmissions and clean filter in it. Also inspected the thermostat and its in pretty good condition. Going to try too figure where the steering housing fluid gets topped up and distributor oil And finish tuning carb and governor. All said and done the moment I tried turning over it started and idled without choke as it previously did. Ran like it came out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is.

Replaced a hydraulic hose that had a cut, steering wheel. Got the tire tube in read fixed and holding air Cleaned the electrical up with new ignition switch and cleaned up the alternator as well. Productive weekend.

If you have a leak from the water pump shaft (which the fan is mounted on) you better be fixing it sooner rather than later. A leak there is usually a sign the bearing is going. If the bearing fails, you may not need to just replace (or repair) the water pump. A bearing failure can put the fan into the radiator then you can add fan and radiator to the things needed for repair.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 17:24:04 07/03/22)

(quoted from post at 19:58:13 07/03/22) So got my manuals, did a complete tuneup on distributor and plugs,flushed and replaced coolant, found some leaks fixed those, just have 1 leak left from where rad fan is attached assuming seal around shaft, do that one day. Also did rust removal inside gas tank and cleaned the bowl and filter in it . Carb was previously cleaned and adjusted. Found out Im missing the strainer for fuel that Ill purchase later on.

Did engine oil, air filter oil and mesh,cleaned crankcase breather, power steering flush. I made a j link for the governor and found a spring I made fit. Adjusted the brakes and clutch . Brakes now work and clutch I never got too try because as I was flushing power steering I cracked one of the 90 degree fittings so I need to get a new one tomorrow.

All I have too do is flush transmissions and clean filter in it. Also inspected the thermostat and its in pretty good condition. Going to try too figure where the steering housing fluid gets topped up and distributor oil And finish tuning carb and governor. All said and done the moment I tried turning over it started and idled without choke as it previously did. Ran like it came out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is.

Replaced a hydraulic hose that had a cut, steering wheel. Got the tire tube in read fixed and holding air Cleaned the electrical up with new ignition switch and cleaned up the alternator as well. Productive weekend.

If you have a leak from the water pump shaft (which the fan is mounted on) you better be fixing it sooner rather than later. A leak there is usually a sign the bearing is going. If the bearing fails, you may not need to just replace (or repair) the water pump. A bearing failure can put the fan into the radiator then you can add fan and radiator to the things needed for repair.

Exactly !! My water pump blew and put the fan into my radiator on my 202. I had to replace the pump, the fan and the radiator. The thing is that the pump wasn't making any kind of noise and I hadn't noticed any leak. It just blew and I had no warning.

 

[Jim.ME]

I generally grab a fan blade and try to rock it front to rear to check for water pump bearing play when servicing engines. Bearing play will often be seen before they show a leak.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 04:12:36 07/04/22)
I generally grab a fan blade and try to rock it front to rear to check for water pump bearing play when servicing engines. Bearing play will often be seen before they show a leak.

Unfortunately, the blade I grabbed at the time happened to be laying on the ground. :wink:

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 17:11:52 07/03/22)
"ame out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is. "

You have me confused with the above. Is this a gas engine? On the gas engine, you fill the reservoir by removing the top on it and pouring in the fluid. I don't understand what you are talking about with "housing for power steering".

The manual states fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box

 

[Eazycheeze]

Sounds good I will take a peak at the play and see about the parts.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 11:00:43 07/04/22)

(quoted from post at 17:11:52 07/03/22)
"ame out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is. "

You have me confused with the above. Is this a gas engine? On the gas engine, you fill the reservoir by removing the top on it and pouring in the fluid. I don't understand what you are talking about with "housing for power steering".

The manual states fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box

Ok guys, I think I'm losing it here. We are talking about a Massey Ferguson 202 Workbull, right? The OP won't answer my questions. This is regarding the statement above (housing for power steering) I can't figure what he is talking about.

In the picture of my MF202, you can clearly see my power steering pump with the reservoir on top of the pump which is where you remove that cap and add fluid if you need it. That round cap to the left of the pump is where you add engine oil if you need it. I wonder if the OP is pouring steering fluid into that and thinking it is going into the power steering reservoir.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 12:46:37 07/04/22)

(quoted from post at 11:00:43 07/04/22)

(quoted from post at 17:11:52 07/03/22)
"ame out of the manufacturer. Just unsure where the fill is for the housing for power steering is. "

You have me confused with the above. Is this a gas engine? On the gas engine, you fill the reservoir by removing the top on it and pouring in the fluid. I don't understand what you are talking about with "housing for power steering".

The manual states fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box

It s a gas , and no I did not pour power steering down the engine oil fill. I realize that s how you top up the power steering fluid. See attached photo below.

This post was edited by Eazycheeze on 07/04/2022 at 03:26 pm.

 

[Eazycheeze]

Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 08:38:36 07/05/22) Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

The reference you circled from the manual does not state: "fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box". I believe you will find the reference you circled (Steering Housing Oil Level) from the manual is referring to the mechanical steering box itself, not the hydraulic power steering part of the system.

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 08:07:32 07/05/22)

(quoted from post at 08:38:36 07/05/22) Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

The reference you circled from the manual does not state: "fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box". I believe you will find the reference you circled (Steering Housing Oil Level) from the manual is referring to the mechanical steering box itself, not the hydraulic power steering part of the system.

I did not word my sentence properly but yes that is correct. Do you happen too know where the full plug is, is it the upper most plug screw with a black cap?

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 08:07:32 07/05/22)

(quoted from post at 08:38:36 07/05/22) Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

The reference you circled from the manual does not state: "fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box". I believe you will find the reference you circled (Steering Housing Oil Level) from the manual is referring to the mechanical steering box itself, not the hydraulic power steering part of the system.

I did not word my sentence properly but yes that is correct. Do you happen too know where the full plug is, is it the upper most plug screw with a black cap?

 

[Eazycheeze]

(quoted from post at 08:07:32 07/05/22)

(quoted from post at 08:38:36 07/05/22) Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

The reference you circled from the manual does not state: "fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box". I believe you will find the reference you circled (Steering Housing Oil Level) from the manual is referring to the mechanical steering box itself, not the hydraulic power steering part of the system.

I did not word my sentence properly but yes that is correct. Do you happen too know where the full plug is, is it the upper most plug screw with a black cap?

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 13:56:49 07/05/22)

(quoted from post at 08:07:32 07/05/22)

(quoted from post at 08:38:36 07/05/22) Is it worth rebuilding or just buy the assembly? And if I were too
rebuild do you happen to know if its a common bearing and seal or
are they hard too find locally . Hate too waste an entire assembly for
such small parts

The reference you circled from the manual does not state: "fill the power steering housing reservoir located top of gear box". I believe you will find the reference you circled (Steering Housing Oil Level) from the manual is referring to the mechanical steering box itself, not the hydraulic power steering part of the system.

I did not word my sentence properly but yes that is correct. Do you happen too know where the full plug is, is it the upper most plug screw with a black cap?

Wording can make a difference in the answers you get as seen here.

I don't have one to look at but here is the picture from the parts book. They show 3 different ones but all three use the same plug.

You can access the online parts book for your 202 at https://apb.agcocorp.com/ . Click on Search and Shop Now. On the page that opens, click on Search by Parts Book. On the next page that opens you should see Search by Parts Book and Model underlined. Type 202 in the search box visible below Model. A list of all AGCO models having 202 will appear. In the Brands column, check the box beside Massey Ferguson. When I follow these steps the choice of 202 / 203 / 204 / 205 Tractors is top of the list. Click on thar title and the parts book should open. Don't worry if you have to wait for things to open, it often isn't a fast site. Sometimes it works better with GOOGLE as a browser.