MF35 crank pulley help needed

[sbr]

Hi
I need to remove the old hand crank pulley on my MF35, is it just a matter of pulling it off or does the bit in the center that you put the hand crank into undo?
There's no bolt holes in the pulley itself
Any advise is welcome
Thanks

 

[Jeff Z.]

I believe you will find the hand crank jaw in the center of the pulley has a threaded stud on it and has to be unscrewed out of the crankshaft and then you will use a puller on the pulley.

 

[doehmke]

I took mine off recently. The jawed nut turns to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten, like a standard threaded bolt. This is what I learned from others on this site to make it easier to remove and replace/reinstall the pulley. I've done this three or four times on TO-20 and MF-35. Works great.

First make sure you're plug wires are disconnected.

If you just try to turn to the left with the wrench, the nut, pulley, crankshaft all just rotate to the left and you get nowhere. Put a big wrench on the Jawed-nut and laid the handle with a pipe for extension off to the right where it could rest against another solid part of the tractor. Leave it resting there, making sure the wrench is seated properly on the nut and no hands on the handle. Then turn the starter over very briefly. The wrench will probably fall off, but your nut will be loose and come off by hand the rest of the way.

When it came to putting it back together and torqueing the nut, the pulley, crank and pistons are going to just going to go around. So to stabilize them and be able to get some torque on the nut, remove #1 sparkplug, make sure the piston is down towards the bottom of the cylinder, and push as much clean rope into the cylinder as you can. Then as you tighten the nut, everything will rotate until the piston compresses the rope and can't go any more. Then you can torque the nut. My TO-20 shop manual says torque to 130 to 140 foot-pounds, so that's what I used on my MF-35.

Dan

 

[sbr]

(quoted from post at 07:08:06 12/12/09) I took mine off recently. The jawed nut turns to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten, like a standard threaded bolt. This is what I learned from others on this site to make it easier to remove and replace/reinstall the pulley. I've done this three or four times on TO-20 and MF-35. Works great.

First make sure you're plug wires are disconnected.

If you just try to turn to the left with the wrench, the nut, pulley, crankshaft all just rotate to the left and you get nowhere. Put a big wrench on the Jawed-nut and laid the handle with a pipe for extension off to the right where it could rest against another solid part of the tractor. Leave it resting there, making sure the wrench is seated properly on the nut and no hands on the handle. Then turn the starter over very briefly. The wrench will probably fall off, but your nut will be loose and come off by hand the rest of the way.

When it came to putting it back together and torqueing the nut, the pulley, crank and pistons are going to just going to go around. So to stabilize them and be able to get some torque on the nut, remove #1 sparkplug, make sure the piston is down towards the bottom of the cylinder, and push as much clean rope into the cylinder as you can. Then as you tighten the nut, everything will rotate until the piston compresses the rope and can't go any more. Then you can torque the nut. My TO-20 shop manual says torque to 130 to 140 foot-pounds, so that's what I used on my MF-35.

Dan

Thanks a lot. i will try it today

 

[petervano]

(quoted from post at 01:08:06 12/13/09) I took mine off recently. The jawed nut turns to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten, like a standard threaded bolt. This is what I learned from others on this site to make it easier to remove and replace/reinstall the pulley. I've done this three or four times on TO-20 and MF-35. Works great.

First make sure you're plug wires are disconnected.

If you just try to turn to the left with the wrench, the nut, pulley, crankshaft all just rotate to the left and you get nowhere. Put a big wrench on the Jawed-nut and laid the handle with a pipe for extension off to the right where it could rest against another solid part of the tractor. Leave it resting there, making sure the wrench is seated properly on the nut and no hands on the handle. Then turn the starter over very briefly. The wrench will probably fall off, but your nut will be loose and come off by hand the rest of the way.

When it came to putting it back together and torqueing the nut, the pulley, crank and pistons are going to just going to go around. So to stabilize them and be able to get some torque on the nut, remove #1 sparkplug, make sure the piston is down towards the bottom of the cylinder, and push as much clean rope into the cylinder as you can. Then as you tighten the nut, everything will rotate until the piston compresses the rope and can't go any more. Then you can torque the nut. My TO-20 shop manual says torque to 130 to 140 foot-pounds, so that's what I used on my MF-35.

Dan

This is great is there any suggestions for how to remove the starter jaw nut when the starter motor is not operational? and the front wheels have been removed. I was have tried putting the tractor in high gear and use a big shifter, but so far I have seem to be moving the tractor not undoing the nut.
Is there any way to secure the fly wheel and use a breaker bar?
Regards
Peter

 

[Jason S.]

(quoted from post at 03:30:45 02/11/15)

(quoted from post at 01:08:06 12/13/09) I took mine off recently. The jawed nut turns to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten, like a standard threaded bolt. This is what I learned from others on this site to make it easier to remove and replace/reinstall the pulley. I've done this three or four times on TO-20 and MF-35. Works great.

First make sure you're plug wires are disconnected.

If you just try to turn to the left with the wrench, the nut, pulley, crankshaft all just rotate to the left and you get nowhere. Put a big wrench on the Jawed-nut and laid the handle with a pipe for extension off to the right where it could rest against another solid part of the tractor. Leave it resting there, making sure the wrench is seated properly on the nut and no hands on the handle. Then turn the starter over very briefly. The wrench will probably fall off, but your nut will be loose and come off by hand the rest of the way.

When it came to putting it back together and torqueing the nut, the pulley, crank and pistons are going to just going to go around. So to stabilize them and be able to get some torque on the nut, remove #1 sparkplug, make sure the piston is down towards the bottom of the cylinder, and push as much clean rope into the cylinder as you can. Then as you tighten the nut, everything will rotate until the piston compresses the rope and can't go any more. Then you can torque the nut. My TO-20 shop manual says torque to 130 to 140 foot-pounds, so that's what I used on my MF-35.

Dan

This is great is there any suggestions for how to remove the starter jaw nut when the starter motor is not operational? and the front wheels have been removed. I was have tried putting the tractor in high gear and use a big shifter, but so far I have seem to be moving the tractor not undoing the nut.
Is there any way to secure the fly wheel and use a breaker bar?
Regards
Peter

I've always found it was easiest to use an impact on that bolt for both removing it and tightening it up.

 

[petervano]

(quoted from post at 01:08:30 02/12/15)

(quoted from post at 03:30:45 02/11/15)

(quoted from post at 01:08:06 12/13/09) I took mine off recently. The jawed nut turns to the left to loosen and to the right to tighten, like a standard threaded bolt. This is what I learned from others on this site to make it easier to remove and replace/reinstall the pulley. I've done this three or four times on TO-20 and MF-35. Works great.

First make sure you're plug wires are disconnected.

If you just try to turn to the left with the wrench, the nut, pulley, crankshaft all just rotate to the left and you get nowhere. Put a big wrench on the Jawed-nut and laid the handle with a pipe for extension off to the right where it could rest against another solid part of the tractor. Leave it resting there, making sure the wrench is seated properly on the nut and no hands on the handle. Then turn the starter over very briefly. The wrench will probably fall off, but your nut will be loose and come off by hand the rest of the way.

When it came to putting it back together and torqueing the nut, the pulley, crank and pistons are going to just going to go around. So to stabilize them and be able to get some torque on the nut, remove #1 sparkplug, make sure the piston is down towards the bottom of the cylinder, and push as much clean rope into the cylinder as you can. Then as you tighten the nut, everything will rotate until the piston compresses the rope and can't go any more. Then you can torque the nut. My TO-20 shop manual says torque to 130 to 140 foot-pounds, so that's what I used on my MF-35.

Dan

This is great is there any suggestions for how to remove the starter jaw nut when the starter motor is not operational? and the front wheels have been removed. I was have tried putting the tractor in high gear and use a big shifter, but so far I have seem to be moving the tractor not undoing the nut.
Is there any way to secure the fly wheel and use a breaker bar?
Regards
Peter

I've always found it was easiest to use an impact on that bolt for both removing it and tightening it up.

Thanks! I had to replace on of the cylinder sleeves anyway and ended putting a block of wood down the cylinder bore and against the crank shaft to stop it turning and used a breaker bar to get it off.