MF35 - To split or not to split.

[shiver]

Hi all,

Own a "60 MF35, Perkins Diesel w/ 2-stage clutch.

She"s got leaks (show me a 50 year old that doesn"t), and I would like to fix some of them.

Current known leaks:

- Injector
- Leak off pipe
- Fuel pipe
- Exhaust manifold (suspected)
- Front crankshaft seal.
- Sump plate.

I"d like to seal it up a bit (uses about a quart of oil for every 8 to 10 hrs of work), but I have concerns.

My garage where I store the tractor has a dirt floor and is very dusty. For example, leave a
gas container in it and you will have a good, thick coat of dust built up on it in a couple of days.

Needless to say, I don"t want to be exposing engine block internals to this environment.

My question is, do you consider a quart of oil, every 8 to 10 hours worth splitting the tractor open, moving the engine to another building which has a cement floor?

I"m not even sure how I would get the engine into that cement building, considering you can"t drive the tractor in

Thoughts?

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Take care of all the diesel leaks now, just drape oily old rags over the holes while pieces are off. The front seal is a pain to get to, not dirt wise, time and sweat wise. The oil pan can come off with out a split, but just try tightening all the bolts 1st. A dirt floor likes a leaky engine anyway...

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi,
This oil loss should not be allowed to continue. The engine oil leak can be either from the rear crank seal or past the rear cork seal on the sump (oil pan). You cannot tell which until the tractor is either split or the sump is removed. A concrete floor is advisable. Do you have access to or can hire a portable engine hoist? If you have everything to hand the job of splitting the tractor, removal of clutch, flywheel and replacement of the rear crank seal should take no more than 5 to 6 hours, easily achievable in a day. The danger that if this oil loss is allowed to continue you may get oil on the clutch plates if you do not already have it there. You will need an axle stand or suitable wooden blocks to support the rear end. Removal of the sump and replacement of the gasket should take no more than 3 hours, should be nearer two.
It is a bit more work but its worth removing the radiator to gain access to the crank pulley. With the pulley removed it is then worth removing the timing cover so that the new seal can be pressed into place in the correct position. Fuel leaks should be readily accessible and easily cured.
As to your dusty floor a thin sheet of polythene (painters furniture cover) from your hardware store should be sufficient to keep the dust down. I can give yo the full list of what you will need if you contact me.
DavidP, South Wales