ny diode with a PIV over 100 volts and current rating of 3 amps or more. Even a 10 Ohm resistor will work. R.S. 276-1661 or 1N5408 & many others. Could even use the diode trio from a Delco 10SI alternator & have 2 spares.(quoted from post at 20:05:42 08/23/21) Does anyone happen to know the part number for the isolation diode between oil pressure switch and alternator? Part number or type diode, or even a work around would be appreciated.
Thanks in Advance
(quoted from post at 21:54:36 08/23/21) Thanks for the suggestions. I have to find the existing in the wire mold, if it is even there. The previous owner cut out and bypassed most of the wiring and I am trying to put it back the way it should be. The tractor runs, finally, but the alternator is not charging the battery. It is a new alternator, so I have some troubleshooting to do.
This post was edited by Rebrown on 08/23/2021 at 06:57 pm.
(quoted from post at 13:46:05 08/24/21) I took the wire mold apart and there is no diode. I measured resistance both directions and it was the same, so definitely not there.
When I crank it over the oil pressure switch closes and I have 12V at the alternator so it appears they are using the switch to control the excitation on the alternator.
I think I will just leave it alone and put the dash back together as soon as I get a new tach cable installed.
Thanks all for your help and suggestions. I am just surprised that a 60 year old MF40B still runs.![]()
(quoted from post at 12:47:14 08/24/21)(quoted from post at 13:46:05 08/24/21) I took the wire mold apart and there is no diode. I measured resistance both directions and it was the same, so definitely not there.
When I crank it over the oil pressure switch closes and I have 12V at the alternator so it appears they are using the switch to control the excitation on the alternator.
I think I will just leave it alone and put the dash back together as soon as I get a new tach cable installed.
Thanks all for your help and suggestions. I am just surprised that a 60 year old MF40B still runs.![]()
Is your wiring diagram a factory one or one someone had for a conversion to an internally regulated alternator? It seems strange it would be in the factory wiring and not in the parts catalog.
or what it might be worth?, I have diagram for MF175 that used the Delco 10DN with separate VR which shows no diode. So, maybe the diode came about with the 10SI, as is does show in MF275 with 10SI?(quoted from post at 14:49:59 08/24/21)(quoted from post at 12:47:14 08/24/21)(quoted from post at 13:46:05 08/24/21) I took the wire mold apart and there is no diode. I measured resistance both directions and it was the same, so definitely not there.
When I crank it over the oil pressure switch closes and I have 12V at the alternator so it appears they are using the switch to control the excitation on the alternator.
I think I will just leave it alone and put the dash back together as soon as I get a new tach cable installed.
Thanks all for your help and suggestions. I am just surprised that a 60 year old MF40B still runs.![]()
Is your wiring diagram a factory one or one someone had for a conversion to an internally regulated alternator? It seems strange it would be in the factory wiring and not in the parts catalog.
Factory maintenance manual, but I am finding differences with old and not so old models.
(quoted from post at 10:53:01 07/10/22) Rebrown,
I need to do some wiring work (soldering, etc) on the dash of the MF40B. I tried to access it through the side panel where the transmission filter is located, but there isn't enough visibility. Just wondering if you had removed the dash during your repair and if so, how easy was the process. Also, have you seen any documentation in a service manual that describes this process. Thanks.
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