MF50 Stuck in Gear

Rogerkmf50

New User
I know this has happened to others, and it has happened to me several times before. Usually when my MF 50 gets stick in gear, I take the transmission fill lid off and move the shifter around with a screwdriver and it jumps back in place. This time not so much. No matter what I do it won't move. Any ideas?
Roger
 
I know this has happened to others, and it has happened to me several times before. Usually when my MF 50 gets stick in gear, I take the transmission fill lid off and move the shifter around with a screwdriver and it jumps back in place. This time not so much. No matter what I do it won't move. Any ideas?
Roger
You may need to jack a rear wheel off the ground to release some of the pressure on the gears while you try to free it. Block it from rolling if you do.

Edited: Brain cramp apparently struck, disregard this, see Dieseltech's reply below.
 
Last edited:
I know this has happened to others, and it has happened to me several times before. Usually when my MF 50 gets stick in gear, I take the transmission fill lid off and move the shifter around with a screwdriver and it jumps back in place. This time not so much. No matter what I do it won't move. Any ideas?
Roger
Are you holding the clutch down while trying to pry the shift levers? If not try that before you go to jacking up the wheel.
 
Jack a back wheel up to relieve gear tension?? BALONEY!! Just move the Hi/LO lever to the center/neutral-start position WILL remove any gear tension. Now go down through the trans oil fill cap and move the shift rail back to Neutral. When the R/1/2/3 lever will move again left to right you are done. Now STOP trying to shift it fast, it AINT a Hurst. What USUALLY happens is someone tries to shift FASTLY from first to second, the lever makes it into the 2/3 shift slot but the R/1 rail PASSES it's neutral and goes into reverse. Then the lever can't cross back as it needs to. I've seen this LOTS of times as an OLD MF mechanic.
 
I used this screwdriver method with a 150 many years ago. Just this summer shared it with my mechanic who was getting ready to split a 50 to solve the problem. He and the owner were more than happy. I don't recall doing anything with the range shifter back then.
 
I had a MF 65 and it that to me. Take the big nut by the shifter off and use the screwdriver method down that hole
 
I used this screwdriver method with a 150 many years ago. Just this summer shared it with my mechanic who was getting ready to split a 50 to solve the problem. He and the owner were more than happy. I don't recall doing anything with the range shifter back then.
The Hi/Lo won't need moved to Neutral/start IF there's NO gear tension, if there IS tension moving it to the center WILL relieve it so the other gears can move easily.
 
Jack a back wheel up to relieve gear tension?? BALONEY!! Just move the Hi/LO lever to the center/neutral-start position WILL remove any gear tension. Now go down through the trans oil fill cap and move the shift rail back to Neutral. When the R/1/2/3 lever will move again left to right you are done. Now STOP trying to shift it fast, it AINT a Hurst. What USUALLY happens is someone tries to shift FASTLY from first to second, the lever makes it into the 2/3 shift slot but the R/1 rail PASSES it's neutral and goes into reverse. Then the lever can't cross back as it needs to. I've seen this LOTS of times as an OLD MF mechanic.
The times I have done this on my 35 I was pulling up on the shifter for what ever reason, most likely on a hill, going from R to 2 with the bush hog pulling up and backing up. Have not done it for a while, 1 to 2 times of having to back up or walk all the way up to the house to get tools will make you slow down a bit lol
 
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