MH 44 with cab/adding heat ?

[John in ND]

Probably 10 years ago I bought my 49 MH 44 with a completely worn out transmission. It would lock up at the worst times, and constantly fall out of gear.
3 years ago I bought the 44 Special trans/rear end/cab from a guy parting out a Special.
This spring I found a gantry crane, and built up the courage to split my 44 and do the swap.
One question, the Lundeen cab has a heater. I just need to hook the water lines to the engine cooling system. Anyone have any ideas how to do that?

 

[stevieb49829]

Look for an outlet port near the top of the water pump. Return can go just about anywhere into the block - wherever you find a suitable port. This assumes you have a flow control valve on the heater, in the cab. steve

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

Probably 10 years ago I bought my 49 MH 44 with a completely worn out transmission. It would lock up at the worst times, and constantly fall out of gear.
3 years ago I bought the 44 Special trans/rear end/cab from a guy parting out a Special.
This spring I found a gantry crane, and built up the courage to split my 44 and do the swap.
One question, the Lundeen cab has a heater. I just need to hook the water lines to the engine cooling system. Anyone have any ideas how to do that?

I like the idea of the swap. Should be a good tractor for you. For a man of my size it would be a nasty thing to get in and out of for sure.

 

[John in ND]

I like the idea of the swap. Should be a good tractor for you. For a man of my size it would be a nasty thing to get in and out of for sure.

Yeah my left hand is crippled from a car crash, so getting in and out is hard for me too. I have a small aluminum step ladder I use to get in and out. Once I'm in there I'm amazed how roomy the cab is. It's an absolute joy to drive now.
Thanks for the reply.

 

[John in ND]

Look for an outlet port near the top of the water pump. Return can go just about anywhere into the block - wherever you find a suitable port. This assumes you have a flow control valve on the heater, in the cab. steve

I will look for those ports today Steve.
It would sure be neat to have that heater working in the cab.
Thank you!

 

[stevieb49829]

I don't have a 44 to go by, but here's a pic of the top of the water pump on my MH 101. I think the line running between the water pump and the thermostat housing is probably just a bypass where the heater hoses would hook up. MHNut has several 44's in his lineup, so he would be the guy to ask about the right place to hook it up. steve

 

[centash]

I don't think there is space to put an outlet on the water pump on a 4 cylinder 44....you may have to install a sleeve with a port in it in the upper rad hose or in the thermostat housing. There is a drain port on the lower rear of the block that can be used as well.

Ben

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I don't have a 44 to go by, but here's a pic of the top of the water pump on my MH 101. I think the line running between the water pump and the thermostat housing is probably just a bypass where the heater hoses would hook up. MHNut has several 44's in his lineup, so he would be the guy to ask about the right place to hook it up. steve

View attachment 132097

I will look in the morning.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I will look for those ports today Steve.
It would sure be neat to have that heater working in the cab.
Thank you!

There is no port on the water pump on the 44 that I checked this morning. I will look at a later version when I get home and check it.

 

[John in ND]

There is no port on the water pump on the 44 that I checked this morning. I will look at a later version when I get home and check it.

I didn't see any on mine either.
John

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

I didn't see any on mine either.
John

Hi John. I do not see any easy way to get a good source of warm anti freeze to your cab. On my row crop 44 there is a drain cock on the lower rad hose pipe and also a drain in the middle of the block. But on my other 44s there isn’t two drain fittings. Plus I’m not sure you would get enough positive flow of coolant to circulate properly. You are going to have to manufacture some sort of a fitting in the top rad hose and drain back to the block or something some where. That has been mentioned already I believe. Let us know what you come up with.

 

[John in ND]

Thank you so much for your time and input!
I will try to McGiver something. I'm thinking tapping in at the upper radiator hose, and returning at a drain petcock or adapting something at a drain plug.
But even just having the cab will be more "heat"than I'm used to. But this is my forever tractor, so heat and a radio would be fun.

 

[Masseyharrisnut]

Thank you so much for your time and input!
I will try to McGiver something. I'm thinking tapping in at the upper radiator hose, and returning at a drain petcock or adapting something at a drain plug.
But even just having the cab will be more "heat"than I'm used to. But this is my forever tractor, so heat and a radio would be fun.

Your welcome.

 

[used red MN]

Just FYI, heater cores are generally supplied by a fitting on the head. The water pump pushes coolant through the block up into the head. The thermostat generally in the coolant outlet of the head to the radiator is a “valve” controlling that flow or pressure. Any fitting in the head or actually the block drain are “pressurized” by the water pump. Many are fooled by the heater hose connected to the water pump which is in many cases actually the return hose from the heater circuit. This was true of many cars/trucks with small block Chevies and was misinterpreted by many. The hose connected to the pump was the return and the hose connected to the water port in the intake manifold upstream of the thermostat was the supply.

 

[Duner Wi]

I added a RV water pump to move coolant to heater once.
Did not hurt anything but did not cook me either.

 

[John in ND]

I added a RV water pump to move coolant to heater once.
Did not hurt anything but did not cook me either.

I will keep that in mind. Great tip, thank you!