MH44 Sputtering

[46Chev]

My MH44 gas 4-cyl. loses power, sputters, and sometimes dies when I either use road gear or advance the gas in the upper third of the quadrant in any gear under no load. It appears to be fouling plugs which some are a little sooty and oily. I've replaced the fouled plug with a new D21 and the tractor runs good for a couple hours. I think the plug fouled when I was running it on the road and then slacked off the gas rather quickly down hill. Any ideas? A hotter plug, rings, new coil?

 

[fords rock]

well i have a farmall m that does the same thing and i figured out that it was leaking oil into the 1st and 3rd cylinder
hope this helps

 

[fords rock]

well i have a farmall m that does the same thing and i figured out that it was leaking oil into the 1st and 3rd cylinder
hope this helps

 

[fords rock]

well i have a farmall m that does the same thing and i figured out that it was leaking oil into the 1st and 3rd cylinder
hope this helps

 

[fords rock]

well i have a farmall m that does the same thing and i figured out that it was leaking oil into the 1st and 3rd cylinder
hope this helps

 

[fords rock]

well i have a farmall m that does the same thing and i figured out that it was leaking oil into the 1st and 3rd cylinder
hope this helps

 

[the preacher]

I had this problem on my 44, here's what I did. First off, get a set of Autolite 386's, I think you'll like them better than the Champions. Second, set the timing back to factory specs. These Continentals are finnicky about timing, the best way to set them for power is on a dyno. And, remove the carburetor and rebuild it. Get a quality kit, and a gallon pail of carburetor cleaner from Napa or Carquest. This is the "soup" that some refer to. Disassemble the carb and soak all the parts overnight. Reassemble the carb, and it should run fine. My 44 had me pulling my hair out. I took the carb apart about 6 times and blew it out, shot it with carb and choke spray, and reassembled it, before I tried the soup. Now it runs better than my truck. Hope this helps.
One more thing, make sure you have an adequate supply of fuel ffrom the tank, and make sure the float level is set correctly. The carb kit should list the proper float level

 

[46Chev]

Preacher,

Do the Autolites burn hotter or have you just had better experience with them?

FYI
I bought this tractor this winter. The PO said the engine and carb were completely rebuilt a year or two ago with new pistons and head job. On my own closer inspection I don't see any tool marks or touch up after a paint job done supposedly 6 years ago! All things said, it still is worth what I paid for it.

 

[the preacher]

First off, personally I never trust what anyone says they have done unless I see them actually do it. Some will say anything to make a deal. I've been burned by people like that once or twice. I like the Autolites because they seem more resistant to fouling, at least in my tractor. If you cross a Champion d16 or d21 to Autolite, they both cross to a 386. Before you work on the carburetor, check the fuel supply, I was thinking it sounds to me like a possible fuel delivery problem. If you're getting plenty of fuel, you might look into the carb. Where are you located? I'm in Northern Va.

 

[46Chev]

I'm an hour north of St.Louis where the flooding occurred (not me). I'll check the fuel delivery, get some more plugs, and test the coil against a couple spares. Then to the carb. Thanks!