Mill project

[urbancase]

Lathes are brought up a lot, few weeks ago post on v ripper, made two straight shanks to replace the bad ones. Cutting angle so you can reset if it kicks out. Figured I give it a try and see how it works copy the idea of another company’s ripper shanks.

 

[drsportster]

I have no idea what you are saying ?

 

[Ol 54']

Looks like you have your shank secured in a horizontal rotary milling vice? Nice setup, I have a Bridgeport mill, nothing real fancy I need to pick up a rotary vice for mine..

 

[urbancase]

I have no idea what you are saying ?

Cutting an angle on the top of a straight shank for a v ripper. It’s held on the tool bar in a holder that if you hit something hard under ground it kicks back, the angle cut lets you back up and snap it in place and go on. Angle is about 25 deg and that leads to a notch that is a inch deep and 1.250 back in the shank.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Cutting an angle on the top of a straight shank for a v ripper. It’s held on the tool bar in a holder that if you hit something hard under ground it kicks back, the angle cut lets you back up and snap it in place and go on. Angle is about 25 deg and that leads to a notch that is a inch deep and 1.250 back in the shank.

So you milled off all the blue tape?
Post us a picture of after being done, please, thanks for sharing. GG

 

[urbancase]

Germantown, I did not take a pic when I was done. The blue is layout fluid, drys quick and you can scrip lines for patten. The shank top next to the bottle is the notch and angle I put on the straight shanks. The shank pic is the leading foot and straight shanks I made, they are welded and have 2 3-4 bolts in them, I waiting on new wear point to come in. I going to see how it works as I think I am good but wrong before. The part I was milling fits in the tool bar holder.

 

[GermantownGreen]

Germantown, I did not take a pic when I was done. The blue is layout fluid, drys quick and you can scrip lines for patten. The shank top next to the bottle is the notch and angle I put on the straight shanks. The shank pic is the leading foot and straight shanks I made, they are welded and have 2 3-4 bolts in them, I waiting on new wear point to come in. I going to see how it works as I think I am good but wrong before. The part I was milling fits in the tool bar holder.

Gotcha, is your steel Ar400? Have heard that term on Cat replacement work parts build.
Run grade 5 or 8 bolts?
I wish we had room for a mill and lathe. I've always been intrigued, but not smart enough to take those classes. Thanks for sharing. GG Wes

 

[urbancase]

Gotcha, is your steel Ar400? Have heard that term on Cat replacement work parts build.
Run grade 5 or 8 bolts?
I wish we had room for a mill and lathe. I've always been intrigued, but not smart enough to take those classes. Thanks for sharing. GG Wes

I did mess with any hard steels, it’s CRS 1.250 by 5 inch, bigger then what’s on there now. Never delt with ar400 but have been around a lot of tool steels. Grade 8 bolts with 1.500 thread in foot. I don’t have access to a heat treat furnace for something that size. To get steel you can work soft then heat treat. If I bend one I will share won’t be my last mistake

 

[GermantownGreen]

I did mess with any hard steels, it’s CRS 1.250 by 5 inch, bigger then what’s on there now. Never delt with ar400 but have been around a lot of tool steels. Grade 8 bolts with 1.500 thread in foot. I don’t have access to a heat treat furnace for something that size. To get steel you can work soft then heat treat. If I bend one I will share won’t be my last mistake

Thanks for sharing. We appreciate it. Good luck working ground. GG Wes