Milling machine buying suggestions

[Farmall m farmer]

I have been thinking about getting one it won’t be any time soon but eventually what brand do you all recommend I want one that will last my hole life and what kind of price is reasonable I was thinking south bend they seem heavy duty I know nothing about how to use them but would like to learn

 

[urbancase]

Bridgeport is what I have and the one the from my opinion you can still get parts for. I been around mills for over 40 years. They’re are some newer look a likes but do not last the same. I brought my series 2 Bridgeport for 2200.00 it’s in my farm shop. Hope this helps

 

[JF in MI]

You'll want a Bridgeport or Bridgeport clone. Search for local machinery auctions or even Craig's list. The issue is weight and subsequently how to get one home (they typically weigh around one ton and don't bother with a bench top type). Almost all are 3 phase 440volt and you'll need to rewire it (instructions usually inside motor cover panel) to 220v and get a single phase starter converter (inexpensive). Understand you will lose 1/3rd of your horsepower in the process. Only other thing is to make sure it takes R8 collets (most common and least expensive as such). I got a Maxport (Taiwan clone of a Bridgeport 2J) at an auction for $1010 in the door. It had twice the horsepower of a 2J, had a power X axis drive (needed a new armature), refurbished ways, Meehanite cast frame (stiffer) and most parts interchangeable with Bridgeport. Adding digital XYZ readouts was easy and cheap (about $120).
There are endless online 'how to operate' videos for mills or even instructional DVDs so no worry there. Understand you'll become addicted and keep buying endless bits, clamps, attachments, etc.

 

[Butch(OH)]

You'll want a Bridgeport or Bridgeport clone. Search for local machinery auctions or even Craig's list. The issue is weight and subsequently how to get one home (they typically weigh around one ton and don't bother with a bench top type). Almost all are 3 phase 440volt and you'll need to rewire it (instructions usually inside motor cover panel) to 220v and get a single phase starter converter (inexpensive). Understand you will lose 1/3rd of your horsepower in the process. Only other thing is to make sure it takes R8 collets (most common and least expensive as such). I got a Maxport (Taiwan clone of a Bridgeport 2J) at an auction for $1010 in the door. It had twice the horsepower of a 2J, had a power X axis drive (needed a new armature), refurbished ways, Meehanite cast frame (stiffer) and most parts interchangeable with Bridgeport. Adding digital XYZ readouts was easy and cheap (about $120).
There are endless online 'how to operate' videos for mills or even instructional DVDs so no worry there. Understand you'll become addicted and keep buying endless bits, clamps, attachments, etc.View attachment 88393View attachment 88394

JF is spot on, table top mills are next to useless except for hobby models. Horizontals are dirt cheap but very limited in application. You want a Bridgeport or clone and want variable speed, not a step pulley. 9x49 table. Then you will have a versitile mill capabile of most home/hobby/farm jobs. There is nothing wrong with an imported Bridgeport clone except what may have been done to it before you buy it. I bought a new Jet in 1997 and it has cost me zero for repairs.

 

[560Dennis]

Check backlash in lead screws , check wear in the table. Check in side quill for damage . Damage on collets if they are offering . If vise is offered if table is perforated with drill holes In surfaces of table.

 

[wp6529]

Variable speed is ok, however it should definitely not be a factor in mill selection. Since you will in all probability be using a VFD to provide the 3 phase drive to the motor that gets you variable speed anyway.

I have a nice mid '70s Bridgeport with step pulley head and I rarely change belt settings as the VFD provides plenty of speed range. On the rare occasion I do change belt setting, typically for high speed with very small end mills, the belt change takes about 15 seconds.

The condition of the spindle bearings, ways and leadscrews should be your primary concerns in used mill selection. A *modern* DRO already installed is a plus, while an old obsolete DRO is pretty much worthless. Central lube is a plus. Included tooling is a *huge* plus as tooling costs will far exceed the cost of the mill.

 

[redtom]

My dad, a retired tool and die maker, left me his old Bridgeport he bought when he retired. Sure it's all manual with step pulleys and some wear but it does everything this tinkerer/ restorer needs. I also got the rotary phase converter he built. The first one he bought was a 1/2 hp? Short table one. It wasn't long before he sold it and bought this one. I watch auctions online and Facebook marketplace and there are many around reasonably. Now, if only I had gotten more lessons from him.....

 

[Eric in IL]

If I was looking for a used Bridgeport, I'd look for one without power feed on the x axis. The shop I worked in used those for hogging material from blocks and squaring pieces up. Most of them were well on their way to the scrap pile, meaning very loose and wore out.

 

[JF in MI]

If I was looking for a used Bridgeport, I'd look for one without power feed on the x axis. The shop I worked in used those for hogging material from blocks and squaring pieces up. Most of them were well on their way to the scrap pile, meaning very loose and wore out.

All I can say is that I use the power feed all the time as I find it very useful for numerous projects.

 

[MrMachinist]

I have a step pulley Bridgeport with table feed and a riser block. I also have an Alliant with three axis CNC although after sitting a while, the CNC function isn't working. The DRO still works. The Alliant is a solid machine with box ways. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with either brand.

 

[Eric in IL]

All I can say is that I use the power feed all the time as I find it very useful for numerous projects.

My idea would be to buy one without power feed as they could be pretty worn. Then add power feed to it if you need it. Our new machines where we needed precision did not have power feed. As they aged out it got added and we finished using them up as roughing machines. Doesn't mean every machine with power feed is junk. Just that they were in our shop.

 

[drsportster]

I have a CNC Bridgeport {huge model 2 hp ] Pro-Trak read out for $4000 you come and get . Plug numbers in the box Box controls machine . Have manual .

 

[timcasbolt]

I've used a Sharp and a Royal which are Bridgeport clones. Both worked every bit as good as a Bridgeport. I went with a rotary phase convertor because I'm running a bandsaw and surface grinder also on 3 phase, but if you are only running one tool a VFD might be a better choice.

 

[Blackhole49]

I have been thinking about getting one it won’t be any time soon but eventually what brand do you all recommend I want one that will last my hole life and what kind of price is reasonable I was thinking south bend they seem heavy duty I know nothing about how to use them but would like to learn

If you are going to make a living with it, get the best Bridgeport you can afford. If it is going to be used occasionally for odd jobs, keep your eyes open for a decent old mill. MY Index fell off the turnip truck 20 years ago. It's done everything I wanted it to.

 

[Janicholson]

You'll want a Bridgeport or Bridgeport clone. Search for local machinery auctions or even Craig's list. The issue is weight and subsequently how to get one home (they typically weigh around one ton and don't bother with a bench top type). Almost all are 3 phase 440volt and you'll need to rewire it (instructions usually inside motor cover panel) to 220v and get a single phase starter converter (inexpensive). Understand you will lose 1/3rd of your horsepower in the process. Only other thing is to make sure it takes R8 collets (most common and least expensive as such). I got a Maxport (Taiwan clone of a Bridgeport 2J) at an auction for $1010 in the door. It had twice the horsepower of a 2J, had a power X axis drive (needed a new armature), refurbished ways, Meehanite cast frame (stiffer) and most parts interchangeable with Bridgeport. Adding digital XYZ readouts was easy and cheap (about $120).
There are endless online 'how to operate' videos for mills or even instructional DVDs so no worry there. Understand you'll become addicted and keep buying endless bits, clamps, attachments, etc.View attachment 88393View attachment 88394

I agree. The older Chinese are also good. A good new machine will be very high priced. As stated above do it. Jim

 

[cleddy]

Variable speed is ok, however it should definitely not be a factor in mill selection. Since you will in all probability be using a VFD to provide the 3 phase drive to the motor that gets you variable speed anyway.

I have a nice mid '70s Bridgeport with step pulley head and I rarely change belt settings as the VFD provides plenty of speed range. On the rare occasion I do change belt setting, typically for high speed with very small end mills, the belt change takes about 15 seconds.

The condition of the spindle bearings, ways and leadscrews should be your primary concerns in used mill selection. A *modern* DRO already installed is a plus, while an old obsolete DRO is pretty much worthless. Central lube is a plus. Included tooling is a *huge* plus as tooling costs will far exceed the cost of the mill.

Back a few years ago when I was interested in Bridgeport Mills some people preferred the "Step Pulley" mill because it was so simple and quiet. In 1989 I got promoted to shop that had two Super Max step-pulley conventional Mills and we ran them hard and got used to them. Belt changes were fast. I moved on to VS Bridgeport Ez-Trak mills and the Variable speed was nice-They did wear out and needed expensive repair parts to keep quiet. I have one Step-pulley Mill and three Variable Speed Mills now and really have little or no use for any of them in Retirement.

 

[560Dennis]

Investigate options here a place and link to check out if your close

Search

Used Industrial Equipment For Sale.

hgrinc.com

 

[Ultradog MN]

The downside of a Bridgeport is they are fairly old machines now and most of them will need some work.
The upside of a Bridgeport brand is there were something like a quarter million of them built.
So repair parts - both new and used - are are readily available for them.
The most important thing about any mill - or lathe for that matter, is buying one that the ways are not clapped out. One can get the ways scraped but that isn't really a job for amateurs and having it done is very expensive.
I recently upgraded from my old Millmaster knee mill to a J head Bport.
The feed for the quill was not working but I bought the parts to fix it for $65 and spent a couple of days repairing it. It is not a complicated machine.
These mills first came out in about 1939 - the same time the 9N Ford tractors were introduced. So you are dealing with some rather antiquated technology.
Like the 9Ns they aren't suitable for mainstream farming - er, machining any more but are still entirely suitable for a host of simple jobs around your place.

 

[deanostoybox]

I have a South Bend mill. Very good machine. Built 1959 0r 1960 best I can tell. The problem with it is it uses an oddball method to attach tooling to spindle. Looks a lot like the quick change in the picture below, however it is held in with two set screws. I have not found anything like it in the 30 years I have had it. It came with one collet chuck that fits which uses Z collets. So I am limited to what I can put in it to what will fit in a collet. If I wanted a more substantial mount for a face mill or something like that, or wanted to use a different type of collet, I would have to make the adapter myself. So if you find a South Bend mill, you need to see what tooling comes with it before you commit to buy.

Just a heads up.

 

[wp6529]

The downside of a Bridgeport is they are fairly old machines now and most of them will need some work.
The upside of a Bridgeport brand is there were something like a quarter million of them built.
So repair parts - both new and used - are are readily available for them.
The most important thing about any mill - or lathe for that matter, is buying one that the ways are not clapped out. One can get the ways scraped but that isn't really a job for amateurs and having it done is very expensive.
I recently upgraded from my old Millmaster knee mill to a J head Bport.
The feed for the quill was not working but I bought the parts to fix it for $65 and spent a couple of days repairing it. It is not a complicated machine.
These mills first came out in about 1939 - the same time the 9N Ford tractors were introduced. So you are dealing with some rather antiquated technology.
Like the 9Ns they aren't suitable for mainstream farming - er, machining any more but are still entirely suitable for a host of simple jobs around your place.

You can still buy brand new:

https://bridgeportmachinetools.com/product/milling/series-1/

"With over 370,000 machines built over the past 70 years and counting"...