Mini alternator for ford 9N? Or no

Kondoge

Member
Location
AB Canada
So I’ve heard mini alternators fit better but the problem is that 1 I need to find napa part number for one that fits, and 2 how do I convert my 3 wire wiring to be a one wire if I did get one? Or do just stick with the Delco 10si? We are replacing the alternator now, we figure the one I have is failing. No wonder my battery is upset….
 
If you currently have an alternator & if you have already removed the voltage regulator & cut out(under the battery box, on the steering box. All you have to do it run the single wire from the alternator to the + side of the ammeter.
 
Yeah but why is the battery boiling if the wiring is good? That’s what we’re trying to figure out plus the alternator as I’ve said doesn’t go to zero it just keeps charging at a couple amps
 
It sounds like the internal regulator in your alternator has gone bad. I just have a "normal" alternator on mine, the size doesn't bother me. As Rob said, just run a wire from the output stud of a one wire to the ammeter, or through it (if loop style), as the case may be.
 
Yeah but why is the battery boiling if the wiring is good? That’s what we’re trying to figure out plus the alternator as I’ve said doesn’t go to zero it just keeps charging at a couple amps
A high resistance connection can cause over charging. Boiling of the battery is not quantifiable measurement. Any charging battery can bubble some.

Are the connections at both ends of both battery cables clean, bright and tight?
Are your battery terminal cable clamps crimped of soldered or are they the clamp on repair ones?
Are the battery posts clean and bright?
Does the battery ground cable ground to the chassis or to sheet metal?

Voltage readings? Record and report back
Battery terminal to battery terminal at rest and when running
Both ammeter studs to ground
Battery terminal at the starter switch to ground
Alternator output to ground.

I may have lost track, you have a three wire 10SI on it now, correct? Not the 10DN without a regulator?
 
So I’ve heard mini alternators fit better but the problem is that 1 I need to find napa part number for one that fits, and 2 how do I convert my 3 wire wiring to be a one wire if I did get one? Or do just stick with the Delco 10si? We are replacing the alternator now, we figure the one I have is failing. No wonder my battery is upset….
I use the Hitachi 14231 alternator three wire. Wire it up the same as the three wire Delco. Looks much better. Have to get the wider pulley. Brillmans have the pulleys.
 
A wet cell battery can bubble when charging, which is a normal part of the process as hydrogen gas is released. This bubbling helps maintain battery health by stirring up sediment inside the battery.
According to Internet search and my observation.
 
So I’ve heard mini alternators fit better but the problem is that 1 I need to find napa part number for one that fits, and 2 how do I convert my 3 wire wiring to be a one wire if I did get one? Or do just stick with the Delco 10si? We are replacing the alternator now, we figure the one I have is failing. No wonder my battery is upset….
If and when you need something, keep Yesterday's Tractors in mind. We have been selling parts that keep this forum going for 28 years.

 
Report your voltage reading at idle and full throttle.
as promised I have come back with some form of voltage readings, though the meter was giving erratic readings, at idle we put the red to the output on the alternator and at full (as high as it could go). I also got one for the battery when shut off, when shut off the battery terminals read 12.87 DC volts, as for alternator output, we got ranges only, no perfect solid readings. So at idle it is in the range of 13.60 - 14 dc volts, at half it is 14.45 - 14.60 dc volts, at full it is 18 - 19 dc volts.
 
You are under way, good job on getting some readings.

It sounds like it is charging. Did you try taking the reading on the battery terminals with it running to see what is getting to the battery, not just what is at the alternator terminal? The readings might be more stable.

You are not doing anything wrong to cause the meter fluctuations; you are experiencing a common issue when using an inexpensive digital meter on a running tractor. The ignition system makes static and that affects the meter readings. The further you can keep the meter from the ignition system it may help steady the meter, or not, only trying will tell.

Down the road you may want to invest in an analog meter (that is one with a needle, not a read out). Simpson 260 was a good one ($$$). I have a Radio Shack one like a 260. Keep watch on eBay and flea markets as they turn up at times cheap when someone doesn't work on old tractors and other old vehicles and wants or has a digital meter.
 
as promised I have come back with some form of voltage readings, though the meter was giving erratic readings, at idle we put the red to the output on the alternator and at full (as high as it could go). I also got one for the battery when shut off, when shut off the battery terminals read 12.87 DC volts, as for alternator output, we got ranges only, no perfect solid readings. So at idle it is in the range of 13.60 - 14 dc volts, at half it is 14.45 - 14.60 dc volts, at full it is 18 - 19 dc volts.
Confirmed kill its over charging : ( pick the alt you want then google the wiring.
 
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