Missing hydraulic screen

I fired up the 1300D after letting it sit outside for the past year and the Woods loader wouldn't lift. After doing some research I decided to change the transmission oil and wish I'd have done it sooner. It has quite a bit of water in it. There is a crack in the shift boot but I don't know how it would have accumulated so much through there.

I pulled the screen cover off and can't find the screen. I'll order one but I need to get some landscaping done and won't be near the tractor for some time. Is it OK to run without the screen? This is the first time I've changed the transmission oil and I've had this tractor for sever years (shame on me) without any past hydraulic issues.
 
I drained and filled the transmission using ATF since I had an extra 5 gallon container of it. The three point raised a few times but not the loader. I tried bleeding at the loader and I got one significant blast that shot 10 feet behind the tractor and then very little after that.

I'm not sure what to try next and any suggestions are welcome!
 
Running without a screen is very risky. Especially after changing the oil. Some of that sediment that found a nice corner to settle over the years has now been stirred back up into the system.

The three point is lifting correctly but the loader does nothing and no oil comes out of the supply hose anymore?
 
Thanks, Aaron,

I'll only run it without the screen to flush the system and try to make sure it's going to work when I refill it.

The three point WAS lifting correctly when I started on this. Now it just flops around.

I pulled what I assume is the high pressure side of the hydraulic pump and I get an interesting phenomenon - a 3-5 second spurt of ATF and then 20 seconds of no pressure. There is a slurping sound as the pressure dies down and the cycle repeats. I can hold a finger over the port and feel the pressure build but then just a spurt. I suppose I should pull the supply line off the bottom of the transmission to see if there's a big glop of sludge plugging it but I was hoping it might clear by running it for awhile. It did not.

I also hope that the intermittent pressure also means that my pump is good - any opinion on that?
 
Yes, it appears to me that that is the case. In the attached photo the supply comes in on the left (top) and that hose goes to the loader.

I assume the bottom smaller line on the hydraulic pump is the high pressure supply side.

37561_d4b8b16104476dec44e5d8658ed18ec8.jpeg
 
I am confused about your plumbing. You may be on to something in thinking there could be some kind of obstruction in the suction line to your pump causing the intermittent flow.
 
Winston,

Here's a logical view of the connections.

I had to head back to Colorado for the holiday and didn't have a chance to drain the transmission again. I'm going to order the screen and gaskets and I believe I'll go ahead and get a pump from Hoye.

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37561_933e9a3ee38d733a4a77eda67e0a53ca.jpeg
 
Interesting today I went to change the transmission fluid on a Yanmar 186D I got about a year ago and when I went to clean the screen there wasn’t one and I have been using the tractor for a year now
 
Back at the farm now. I can't take the intake tube off the transmission side but I took it off the pump side and blew air through. It doesn't not seem to be obstructed.

I drained all the ATF out of the transmission and the axles again to get rid of all the ugly stuff. There is a small rod slightly protruding out of the transmission drain hole - I'm not sure what that is but I suppose it's supposed to be there.

Since I didn't see anything else and I'm already too far into this, I pulled the hydraulic pump off the engine. It turns freely (with a 9mm wrench anyway) and it pulls a minor suction when I hold my latex-glove thumb over the input. The gear that I can see through the inlet and outlet ports doesn't slip if I try to hold it. I'm gong to have to get a vise out of the barn if I need to take the allen bolts out of the cap to disassemble the pump so I haven't done that yet.

Any suggestions on how to test the pump while off the tractor? Should it pull a significant vacuum? Should I be able to tell there is pressure on the outlet just using air as opposed to hydraulic fluid?

Thanks for you help!
 
Looking at the parts manual for the 1300 I can't see why there would be a rod sticking out the transmission drain hole. Have you looked that over real close?

if you pull the pump apart and inspect seeing no evident problems I wouldn't think a test would be necessary. Just my thinking, doesn't make it right.
 
I haven't looked the protrusion over closely. I pulled and and pushed and it doesn't seem to move. I just went to the parts diagram for the transmission and then looked at it for the transmission lines. Apparently, the screen is behind that transmission line and NOT behind the access cover where I thought it was. The filter seems to have a nnalert sticking out the left side that I suppose could reach over to the drain plug. I' about to go get messy taking that off.

Thanks for the direction Winston.
 
That was certainly the problem and about the only thing that makes sense. The screen is now soaking in gas and looks as though it will clean up nicely.

The protrusion is shown on the Hoyte site on the filter - looks like it keeps the screen above the bottom of the transmission on the left side.

There was no gasket on the screen cover so I'm off to the hardware store to buy some gasket paper. I hope to have this back together before the cold weather comes in.

What a shame to waste all this time for ignoring the crack in a $9 rubber boot!
 
Complete success on the hydraulic pressure - loader is 100% and I didn't need to bleed it.

The bad news - my three point hitch rises only about 1/4 of the way up and then nothing. With the tractor off the lift arms flop, and as I raise them there's a clink inside like something is falling off.

I removed the front cover where the piston is when I was being stupid about this. I'm sure I messed something up by doing that. Any suggestions on what I need to do to fix this? I haven't had the top of the three point off yet, just the front, and it won't come out unless I take off the gearshift.
 
Thanks, Winston, I didn't have that manual. I've been working off the parts diagrams at http://www.partsandservice.com/bin/ipl.cgi but that doesn't have part numbers. The Japanese is hard - I was stationed in Japan but I never learned Kanji.

I read elsewhere in the forum that the rod item #39 is not connected to the piston #37 so I expect that is what makes the clink sound when I move the lift arms. I'm curious as to where the other end of the rod connects, however. It shows a hole in the end of the rod but no connection. Seems as though it would have to connect to the shaft #46 in some fashion.
 
Got it. The rod had dropped out of the cylinder and there would have been no way to get it back in without removing the top as far as I can see.

Everything is back together, I have the rototiller on and I've flattened out the yard.

Thanks again for the help!
 
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