Model A Clutch

[42FarmallMatt]

Couldn't find any other threads regarding this. Got my 45 Model A running over the weekend by pull starting it as the starter is off being rebuilt. Sounds good. Gonna have to take an afternoon to fine tune the carburetor, But the new main issue is my clutch handle won't stay engaged. I mean it will if I hold it there with my foot or hand. Am I doing something wrong or has something worn out. Welcoming all input.

 

[Le9102011]

Sounds like the clutch is adjusted too loose. It’s a realllllll simple adjustment.

With the clutch handle back tighten the 3 castle nuts all the way down till they are a little past snug at this point if you try and push the clutch ch lever forward it shouldn’t engage at all.

Back off each castle nut a quarter turn until you can engage the clutch and hear a good popping sound when the clutch is being disengaged and you should be set. I typically will leave the cottee pins out for a little bit since it will probably need to be readjusted.


Also it could be that the club ch needs to be serviced with a gain is a pretty straight forward task.

On the front of the first reduction gear housing were the clutch brake is four bolts pull those out and disconnect the clutch handle linkage and you can pull the clutch fork out

on the inside of the pulley is a big bolt attached to crank shaft of that needs to be loosened along with all the castle nuts to pull the clutch plate discs and the driver.

The drive can be pulled with either square nuts and a bolt or a puller once the driver is off you can pull the whole clutch assembly out.

On the backside of that he clutch you will see 3 dogs and toggles that need to be cleaned and greased with a super tacky grease and on the inside of the shaft there is a grease resivour that needs to be cleaned and filled with grease some people say not to grease the T Bolts I always do and have never had a problem once it’s all greased and serviced put it all back together and adjust the clutch.

 

[maqbill]

Sounds like the clutch is adjusted too loose. It’s a realllllll simple adjustment.

With the clutch handle back tighten the 3 castle nuts all the way down till they are a little past snug at this point if you try and push the clutch ch lever forward it shouldn’t engage at all.

Back off each castle nut a quarter turn until you can engage the clutch and hear a good popping sound when the clutch is being disengaged and you should be set. I typically will leave the cottee pins out for a little bit since it will probably need to be readjusted.


Also it could be that the club ch needs to be serviced with a gain is a pretty straight forward task.

On the front of the first reduction gear housing were the clutch brake is four bolts pull those out and disconnect the clutch handle linkage and you can pull the clutch fork out

on the inside of the pulley is a big bolt attached to crank shaft of that needs to be loosened along with all the castle nuts to pull the clutch plate discs and the driver.

The drive can be pulled with either square nuts and a bolt or a puller once the driver is off you can pull the whole clutch assembly out.

On the backside of that he clutch you will see 3 dogs and toggles that need to be cleaned and greased with a super tacky grease and on the inside of the shaft there is a grease resivour that needs to be cleaned and filled with grease some people say not to grease the T Bolts I always do and have never had a problem once it’s all greased and serviced put it all back together and adjust the clutch.

Yep, and if the dogs and toggles were run dry for a decade or so, just replace them.

 

[JIM MN]

You have to hold in the clutch handle to make the tractor go? If you cannot adjust the three castle nuts to get the clutch to snap in and stay, then the three dogs and toggles may be worn out. Clutch snap is from three good dogs and toggles. Its up to you if you want to clean up the old ones and lub and put back in and try? While the pulley is off, check the bearing and bushing, if good, lub up too. Clean the three T bolts and there holes. Check the operating sleeve tab hole and pin. Are the wore out? Was the pulley tight on its splines on the crankshaft? A lot of things to look at?

 

[42FarmallMatt]

Also, this is gonna seem like a stupid question but when running I'm getting alot of noise from the fan. Is this because the fan shroud is missing? or does anyone have any other thoughts. I will look at adjusting the clutch this evening

 

[maqbill]

If the tractor still has the old-style rubber mounted fan, it could be rotten and coming apart. I updated my 43 b to the 50 style as it was flexing enough to tick the shroud.

 

[Pappy]

Couldn't find any other threads regarding this. Got my 45 Model A running over the weekend by pull starting it as the starter is off being rebuilt. Sounds good. Gonna have to take an afternoon to fine tune the carburetor, But the new main issue is my clutch handle won't stay engaged. I mean it will if I hold it there with my foot or hand. Am I doing something wrong or has something worn out. Welcoming all input.

Two things to check first. Crankshaft end-play. Clutch adjusting nuts too tight.

 

[miangus]

I don't mean to be rude, but you seem like a rather new owner, and everyone is assuming you know what a correctly adjusted JD two-cylinder clutch feels like on engagement. I would suggest you get the operators manual for the A which has instructions for adjusting the clutch. A clutch that is adjusted too tight to lock into engagement may also exhibit the symptoms you describe.

 

[42FarmallMatt]

I am new. LOL. My other tractor is red. This thing was $1200 on brand new tires with a locked motor and a box of new parts. Managed to free it with diesel fuel in the cylinders. Somehow I thought that was a good deal.

 

[42FarmallMatt]

UPDATE!!! Adjusting the three castle nuts did no good it seems. Only getting a pop when disengaging. Awfully dirty in there so I'm gonna clean it out tomorrow afternoon. Have to get a hold of a 2 jaw gear puller to get the driving disc off. ALSO - When engaging the clutch the pulley is popping out approximately 3/16"-1/4". Is this a matter of end play or something else?

 

[maqbill]

Sounds like you might want to check crankshaft endplay as well. I routinely do it as part of a clutch job, can't recall if a '45 has the fiber thrust washer on the flywheel side. The I & t or some other repair manual would be a good investment.

 

[Le9102011]

UPDATE!!! Adjusting the three castle nuts did no good it seems. Only getting a pop when disengaging. Awfully dirty in there so I'm gonna clean it out tomorrow afternoon. Have to get a hold of a 2 jaw gear puller to get the driving disc off. ALSO - When engaging the clutch the pulley is popping out approximately 3/16"-1/4". Is this a matter of end play or something else?

A good popping sound is what you want when it disengages. Best thing to do is run the tractor and engage and disengage the clutch and see if it’s staying engaged. I remember the first time I got one of these two cylinders and I could never seem to get it right in my mind but then realized I was doing it right all along. As was said in a previous comment if you pull the clutch pully and it’s completely dry back there just replace the dogs toggles and T bolts and I will usually spray a greaser or oven cleaner and pressure washing it all out. Not a big job but a little time consuming first time doing it

 

[Mark-Ia]

UPDATE!!! Adjusting the three castle nuts did no good it seems. Only getting a pop when disengaging. Awfully dirty in there so I'm gonna clean it out tomorrow afternoon. Have to get a hold of a 2 jaw gear puller to get the driving disc off. ALSO - When engaging the clutch the pulley is popping out approximately 3/16"-1/4". Is this a matter of end play or something else?

Don't use a 2-jaw puller on that drive disk, you will break it. The 2 slots in the disk are meant for using a bolt with a square head install in them and tighten the bolts to pop the disk loose. 1/4" movement of the clutch pulley is too much. Should only be .010. Many videos on Youtube on your clutch removal and flywheel endplay issue.

 

[miangus]

Mark is 100% correct, make or get the correct puller. The end play sounds a bit excessive but should work for now. When adjusting the three-clutch nuts measure the exposed portion of the thread to make sure they are being tightened equally. Taking it apart for inspection is a good idea. I think the 45s only have two disks. With the starter off now would be a good time to remove the crankcase cover and flush the crank case.

 

[42FarmallMatt]

I'll be headed to get some bolts and square nuts this afternoon. I finally found the proper method. Can anyone recommend where to get a good dial indicator that isn't highly expensive? I did a flush on the crankcase as I was getting the motor back in running shape. Also, the pulley movement only started after removing the pressure plate and outside disc. I'll update you guys this evening.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Sometimes one of the three bolts you tried tightening in the clutch can break or one of the dogs on the backside can snap as well you will know more when you get it apart

5/8 square nuts if I remember right and some of the brands will actually have different sized heads you may have to modify them slightly to fit the holes

 

[Steven Allen]

I'll be headed to get some bolts and square nuts this afternoon. I finally found the proper method. Can anyone recommend where to get a good dial indicator that isn't highly expensive? I did a flush on the crankcase as I was getting the motor back in running shape. Also, the pulley movement only started after removing the pressure plate and outside disc. I'll update you guys this evening.

Decent dial indicators are not hard to find, but good stands for them is. Pay a few extra dollars for a good quality stand.

 

[sds46a]

I'll be headed to get some bolts and square nuts this afternoon. I finally found the proper method. Can anyone recommend where to get a good dial indicator that isn't highly expensive? I did a flush on the crankcase as I was getting the motor back in running shape. Also, the pulley movement only started after removing the pressure plate and outside disc. I'll update you guys this evening.

Be sure to mark the driver and crank end if not already marked. Might find a V on the crank end and maybe on the driver.

 

[42FarmallMatt]

UPDATE!!! Ended up Chasing the threads in the center of the crankshaft in the flywheel side and running a bolt to pull the crank and tighten the pinch bolts on the back of the flywheel. One of them is spun in and not seating fully so what's happening now is with time running the flywheel is sliding towards the edge. (A puckering moment). So the next time I get to it I'll turn that bolt to where it will clamp properly. But as added insurance, what would you guys think of me making a lock in plate that secures the crankshaft and the flywheel together. I feel this would lock everything together and put an end to the flywheel sliding away but I feel fixing the one pinch bolt will help as well and torquing them down really good. I thought my milwaukee impact was doing the job but apparently not. Besides that developing issue, I DID manage to adjust the end play down to a bit less than 0.010" and pulled the driver disc and fork assembly. Dogs and all look good but I gave everything a good cleaning and oil. Reassembled and adjusted the castle nuts and ive got a good pop and lock with the clutch handle, So I'm moving in a forward direction or I'd like to think I am. Thank you all for your assistance. Also bought a service manual.

 

[Le9102011]

UPDATE!!! Ended up Chasing the threads in the center of the crankshaft in the flywheel side and running a bolt to pull the crank and tighten the pinch bolts on the back of the flywheel. One of them is spun in and not seating fully so what's happening now is with time running the flywheel is sliding towards the edge. (A puckering moment). So the next time I get to it I'll turn that bolt to where it will clamp properly. But as added insurance, what would you guys think of me making a lock in plate that secures the crankshaft and the flywheel together. I feel this would lock everything together and put an end to the flywheel sliding away but I feel fixing the one pinch bolt will help as well and torquing them down really good. I thought my milwaukee impact was doing the job but apparently not. Besides that developing issue, I DID manage to adjust the end play down to a bit less than 0.010" and pulled the driver disc and fork assembly. Dogs and all look good but I gave everything a good cleaning and oil. Reassembled and adjusted the castle nuts and ive got a good pop and lock with the clutch handle, So I'm moving in a forward direction or I'd like to think I am. Thank you all for your assistance. Also bought a service manual.

They actually make a taper lock for those flywheels. G’s and Rs were notorious for the splines getting wore on both the crankshaft and the flywheel. So I’ve gotten into the practice of putting the tractor in a high gear at low idle stepping on the brakes to shut off the tractors so the flywheel dosent rock back and fourth and the R I pull the throttle all the way back and pull the decompression lever