Model M

[CharlesG]

I have a 49 model M that is pushing oil out of the dipstick hole. I thought maybe the breather cap was clogged but it’s not and while it’s running there is very little blow by coming out. After I run it the oil is right on the full mark. Could I possibly have a short district?
Thanks for any help, Charles

 

[CharlesG]

DIP STICK!
Charles

 

[Watthour]

Drainback holes clogging?

 

[CharlesG]

Drainback holes clogging?

Wouldn’t that show low when I check it at shut down?

 

[Watthour]

It would, but only if oil level was checked immediately after the engine stopped. You did not specify when the oil levels were being checked, whether the oil was blowing out the dipstick while running or after shut-down, and how long after shut-down the oil level was checked. The devil is in the details. Removing the oil fill cap to monitor for blowby is a common procedure, and we also don't know what "very little" really means. The 20KT bomb over Hiroshima was a "very little" explosion, in the grand scheme of things. The sun creates more energy in a slice of its surface every millisecond, and the sun is a "very little" star compared to most others.

If the dipstick is lifting or oil is spewing out while running under load, it's likely a blowby issue, and the vented breather cap SHOULD allow crankcase pressure to escape, but only if it CAN. The vent from the sump to the valve cover is through the oil drainback holes, and if they are clogging, that blowby gas is going to find another way out.

 

[CharlesG]

All sarcasm aside, I should have said immediately “after I run it” and instead of “pushing” I should have said splashing which would have been a more accurate description. So, could my dipstick be too short and possibly not original to my tractor?

 

[Watthour]

Almost anything is possible. My '48 M dipstick dimensions are shown below. The "FULL" line is (as close as I can measure) 7¼" below the inside of the cap, where the stick would rest on the tube. The "ADD" line is exactly 8" from that internal cap shoulder. The parallax error from the angle of the photo may look different, but that's what I measured.

I would guess that a '49 would be the same, but that's just my dumb-guy guess.

 

[Watthour]

I can also thank you for making me look, since I found that the oil level in mine is about a quart high, or nearly at the "F" on the stamping.

 

[CharlesG]

Thanks for the measurements. I just checked mine and it is the same as yours in reference to the full and add lines. My level after sitting is just above the last L in Full which is roughly the same distance as the add and full lines so I’m now thinking I am a quart over full and that could explain the splashing.

 

[Watthour]

Mine is currently at the "F", which is even higher. However, it doesn't splash out when running, loaded or not.

I mentioned the potential for clogging oil drains in the head because I encountered that on an MT, although it wasn't so clogged that it pushed oil out of the dipstick tube, but it did make the oil level on the stick increase a bit after sitting a while compared to checking right after it was shut off. They were pretty sludgy, probably from all the polymers that Pennzoil adds to their mineral oil. It gets Mobil1 now.

If you are inclined, and have a gasket (or get lucky and can re-use the old one), it might be a good excuse to pop the valve cover, take a close look at the drain backs and push rod holes, and adjust the valve lash while in there. Of course, that means removing some of the tin, which is not always a fun task.

 

[CharlesG]

The sheet metal has been off of it before. I was having new rims welded to the centers when this picture was taken. This is my shop.

 

[M-MAN]

Yep, you have a quart too much in there. Question is was it like that after an oil change? If not you might want to keep a close check after you drain the extra out. If it goes back up you'll need to replace the TOM pump seal.

 

[CharlesG]

Yep, you have a quart too much in there. Question is was it like that after an oil change? If not you might want to keep a close check after you drain the extra out. If it goes back up you'll need to replace the TOM pump seal.

That is precisely what I was thinking. Several mothers ago I topped off the hydraulics but checking it was next on my list.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If your m manual happens to have a capacity next time you do the oil change id fill it with what it recommends run it then make a mark on the dipstick where it actually is supposed to be I've had some dipsticks on other things that got replaced and aren't right anymore. Checking in the morning or before you start it would keep it at the right level a little more accurately. 2nd watthours post 3 plugged holes and one almost plugged would do it. A quart over even probably wouldn't be blowing it out the hole. Time for cleanup and tuneup.

 

[CharlesG]

Yep, you have a quart too much in there. Question is was it like that after an oil change? If not you might want to keep a close check after you drain the extra out. If it goes back up you'll need to replace the TOM pump seal.

M-MAN, I checked the TOM level and it’s low again. How hard is it to pull the pump and do I have to pull the radiator too?

 

[M-MAN]

M-MAN, I checked the TOM level and it’s low again. How hard is it to pull the pump and do I have to pull the radiator too?

It's not a bad job. Sheet metal has to come off. There's a clamp on the lines up top you'll need to loosen. Radiator is fine where it is. I had to do mine last summer.

 

[CharlesG]

It's not a bad job. Sheet metal has to come off. There's a clamp on the lines up top you'll need to loosen. Radiator is fine where it is. I had to do mine last summer.

Thanks!

 

[CharlesG]

It's not a bad job. Sheet metal has to come off. There's a clamp on the lines up top you'll need to loosen. Radiator is fine where it is. I had to do mine last summer.

I was looking in the service manual and it appears that I need a press. Can putting a new seal in be done without one? You saw a picture of my shop.

 

[CharlesG]

It's not a bad job. Sheet metal has to come off. There's a clamp on the lines up top you'll need to loosen. Radiator is fine where it is. I had to do mine last summer.

After looking at my service manual I need to be looking at the service manuals for the MT and 40. If no press is needed then I think I can get the job done.

 

[M-MAN]

I was looking in the service manual and it appears that I need a press. Can putting a new seal in be done without one? You saw a picture of my shop.

No press needed and you don't need the other manuals. I probably used a bushing driver on the needle bearings but to be honest I can't remember. After cleaning I built it on my lap sitting on the basement steps. Then I careful clamped it in a vice to tighten the bolts.