More B Questions

[JD Gimpl]

Hello Everyone,

I was pulling off the hood of my 41 and the elbow fitting that screws into the governor housing for the oil pressure broke off. The threaded portion is still in the housing any thoughts on how to get it out?

Also changed oil, when I did this I used 10-40 as the new oil, now there seems to be a bit of a knock in the engine at higher idle. Could this be from the thiner oil?

Since I have not heard a rebuild/new model B I am unsure if this knock is normal or something to worry about. I will be using this tractor for parades and maybe light work i.e. pulling a ground driven hay rake.

I would love to know your thoughts on both of these problems.

Gimpl

 

[1949ABG]

I've dealt with broken fitting like that before, and have yet to come up with a really good way to handle them.

The knock you hear may be caused by a loose flywheel.

 

[a49deere]

could try a left handed twist drill bit. Thinking I"d drill out until only thin layer left between threads are left and pick/pull rest out with needle nose pliers. knock could be coming from excess clearance in rod bearings also

 

[BushogPapa]

Was your "B" recently overhauled..?

Normal wear on the crank-throws could have them worn out-of-round, along with some wrist-pin slap and piston clearances all add up to a lot of places for a knock or a rattle in many places..

The engine parts of a 2-Cylinder engine are big and durable. Expect some noises.

10-40 oil should be plenty good, as long as you have good (at least M on the gauge) oil pressure.

I have one "B" that has had a knock in it for 50 years and it is no worse now than it was back then.

If you are worried about it, you can go to 20-50 oil.

Ron.

 

[gtx1967jewison]

30 second job with an ez out to remove the fitting.

 

[Old weldor]

You need to make sure your flywheel is tight! If the knock started after you changed oil it must be internal. I use straight 30 wt. in all my old tractors. I grew up around these old john Deeres and my dad ran 30 wt. in warm weather and 10 wt. in the winter. I still have the 49 A he bought new.

 

[old popper]

I think on the brass fitting, I would use heat (like on the carburetor plugs) let it cool, then stick a file handle in it and screw it out.

 

[JRSutton]

As others have said - there are a lot of moving parts that can cause a knock.

Try pushing the flywheel in and out (across the width of the tractor)

There shouldn't be more than a few thousandths of movement there, if there is, you have to slide the flywheel in to take it up.

that's about the only "easy" thing I can think of.

Problem is - if you start digging into the tractor to find it - you're GOING to find a lot of loose stuff. Hard to say what should be fixed and what shouldn't. The crank shaft and the connecting rods use shims to take up for wear over the years - that'd probably be where I went next after the crank end play...

but -

just warning you - you may find more in there to make you nervous than it's really worth getting into on a tractor you're really not going to use much.

Sometimes thicker oil will solve that kind of problem more economically.

Personally I'd probably go down to 20 weight if you only use it in warm weather.

 

[JRSutton]

scratch what I said about the oil if you haven't already! Total brain cramp - I'd stick with what you're using.

 

[B Yoder]

Could be rod bearing, had to change mine in my 44' B