More TEA Governor Question's

[kaesark]

Ok so after much effort to get the governor working as it should with no joy. I have resorted to replacing with new. A few questions before I close her all up. Firstly I was expecting a lot of oil to escape when removing the timing cover. The timing chain certainly wasn't dry with only a little oil sitting in the bottom of the coveris this normal. Secondly the nipple on the governor cup was noticably worn but not sure as to how worn it would need to be to cause issues. Thirdly the bumper screw goes a little way under his internal bumper
Spring before adjustment takes effect. How do I determine if internal bumper spring is in order. The governor weights did appear to be a little more loose with some wear so have replaced. Timing chain looks fine, it should be as replaced with original restore. Any comments appreciated.

 

[kaesark]

More photos

 

[kaesark]

 

[John Deere D]

I'm unable to suggest any adjustments as per Governor adjustments / settings.
Bob...

 

[Steve@Advance]

Be sure the pin that holds the lever to the shaft where it passes through the cover is not sheared or missing.

Leave the bumper screw backed off and bend the lever down if it is bent up.

The bumper limits the governor travel, and I've never understood why it would need to be limited.

Now that you see what happens in there, when you get it back together and running, check the travel on the governor arm.

To check the travel, with the dash lever in a mid position, disconnect the rod clevis between the carb and the gov arm. Hold the rod up and back to put the carb in the idle position.

Have an assistant start the engine and stand by in case of a runaway! You will be in control of the engine speed, so proceed carefully. Watch that gen belt!

Ever so slowly increase the engine speed and watch the governor arm move toward the rear. Where it stops moving, note that position.

Return the engine to idle and shut it off. Adjust the clevis on the rod so that when the governor arm was at the end of the observed travel, the throttle will be in the idle position, held against the idle stop. Replace the pin and see if the governor works.

You may have to fine adjust it to get it perfect, but this should put it in the functional range.

 

[kaesark]

Thanks Steve.
Pretty sure I got it sorted but with a flat tyre I won't know for sure for a day or two. I have another question you may be able to help with. The hand throttle lever can travel quite a distance. If I were to open/move to fully open is that normal operating position. Half way seems to be reving high enough but not sure as I can not measure revs.
Thanks

 

[Steve@Advance]

Been a while since I set one up, but the end result there will be about 90* travel on the dash lever.

There is some trial and error getting it right.

But get the governor rod to the carb set first.

Put the dash lever about where you think it needs to be for idle. With the dash lever at idle, the bottom end of the control plunger (the rod inside the governor spring) will be seated against the governor arm (where the bottom of the spring hooks), holding it down, in turn holding the throttle closed against the idle stop.

Then with the dash lever set at full fast (90* from idle), loosen the U bolt nuts and turn the clamp until you get the desired full RPM.

You may have to repeat the idle position and full speed a few times to get it right.

You really need some way to measure the RPM. If you have kept the ignition points, might find a used tach/dwell meter on Ebay. Set the points and check the RPM in one tool.

There is also a compensating spring up behind the U bolt. Hooks to a tab on the thermostat housing if I recall. If it is missing it needs to be replaced or the throttle will creep down. Same with the cork friction disc up by the dash. if it's gone, age hardened, or out of adjustment, the lever will creep or fall to idle as soon as it is released.

 

[kaesark]

Hi Steve
Think where I have been going wrong is in not putting the throttle lever in fully open position and then setting the ubolt to get max revs. From what I understand the PTO should be doing 540rpm at 1500 revs, if max motor revs are 2200rpm then what would PTO be doing.
Regards

 

[John Deere D]

TRY:
(540 PTO X 2200 Engine RPM) / 1500 Engine RPM = 792 PTO RPM @ 2200 Engine RPM
or
(270 PTO X 1100 Engine RPM) / 750 Engine RPM = 396 PTO RPM @ 1100 Engine RPM

Bob...I would the Check Math......