Motor I.D.

[8nsyes]

Hello Everyone;


Thanks for bearing with me. I am trying to find out the correct motor that is in my Farmall. Here are pictures, I hope they will help to identify the motor as to what type it is.

The numbers on block are 5-21-Z, another number to left is 354898R, on frame is nbr 8638-DE

thank you,
walt
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22324.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22325.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22326.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22327.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22328.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22329.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22330.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22331.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22332.jpg"/>

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto22333.jpg"/>

 

[fastfarmall]

Looks like a 54 , may 21 st is the day the engine was casted. The tractor serial number is on the seat uprights.

 

[farmallsforever]

C 113 engine

 

[fastfarmall]

I don't think there is such a word as casted, But curious does the have a water temp gauge ?

 

[8nsyes]

Hello Fastfarmall;

Thank you, this information I needed to buy parts, etc as I'm trying to get it in good shape. The serial number you mentioned was discarded when some person welded brackets for the seat that is now on it. I have not seen a water temperature gauge on it. There is an oil gauge on the block.

I have the head tanking right now. When I get it nice and cleaned I will see if there are any numbers on it. Thanks a lot for your expertise.
walt

 

[DeltaRed]

You have a Farmall 'A' (39 to 48). The casting code says '54,which is too late for a A or SuperA.That is a replacement engine,not the original.

 

[CGID]

To one degree or another, all calipers fall into the category of "guess sticks" but yours should be limited to use in cabinetry and wood-work. Get a good-enough caliper and you will be able to answer a lot of your own questions.

 

[Janicholson]

You can buy the parts right here on YT. They have good prices and the quality is as good as it gets. Were it mine I would put in a kit including 3.125" sleeves and higher compression domed pistons. this will make it a 123cid engine. Jim

 

[8nsyes]

Thanks Jim for the kit information. Would this require a trip to the Machine Shop or can I put the Kit in myself?
walt

 

[8nsyes]

DeltaRed I do appreciate your information. Not knowing what I'm doing but just feeling along, your information sounds great. In the past post that I have made that possibility was mentioned.
What I have been needing is to know just what I have so that I can get it up and running and to be able to buy parts with confidence.
walt

 

[Janicholson]

The measuring of the crankshaft must be done to assure correct bearings are installed. A machine shop is best for that. the sleeves are wet, meaning they seat down into the top of the block, and have an Oring at the bottom to seal the coolant from the crankcase. Doing it is not reasonable if you have little or no experience. A friend with experience would be much better. Cleaning and inspection are very critical, as is a repair manual. Jim

 

[Janicholson]

The casting number 8638-DE should be included with your order as the later casting has a different sleeve dimension at the bottom end and must be correct. Jim

 

[8nsyes]

Thank you Jim this is good information for me and I am appreciative your sharing it. I will copy this and keep in my notebook.
walt

 

[350 dave]

my 2 cents- I would advise not buying stuff until you get her all apart. You may find a shaft that needs turned, or .... You will need to know the final size before ordering new replacements. The machine shop will know the size. Don't ask me how I know this. Get a better caliper that reads to 1 1,000ths inch. Line up a machine shop that does low end work just in case.
And yes this is a fantastic site that has been very helpful to me on several occasions. Good luck

 

[John M]

Dont think that number is the block, looks more like the torque tube.

 

[8nsyes]

Hello 350 dave;

Thank you kindly for your two cents, it is worth far more. Your advise is appreciated and I know that I shall profit from it. Things that we don't expect to happen have a way of showing up at the most peculiar times!
walt

 

[Janicholson]

Make sure the part number I quoted is in fact from the block. The difference is important in that the block is much newer than the chassis. Jim

 

[8nsyes]

Hello Jim;

I shall surely remember to do that. Thanks for your advise.
walt

 

[gene bender]

You need to pull the sleves as your block didnot come on that tractor. The sleeves will need to be measured at the bottm where the o-ring goes along with the bore.

 

[8nsyes]

Hello Gene;

Thanks for that important information, I shall abide by it.
walt