Moving 18' bin

[super99]

I need some advise on this one. I bought a 18' Gov't bin to move to my place. It had cement poured inside the bin so I cut it off at the cement and took 4 rings off and hauled home on a trailer. I plan to put an extra ring or 2 on it and pour cement inside the bin again. Everyone I talk to says to put the bin up and level and then pour cement.I am concerned about height and wind until I can get the cement poured inside to hold it down. I am wondering if I could put it together as a 4 or 5 ring bin and pour cement and then after a day or so, take the 2nd ring off and add the rest of the rings to it. They say that it will be out of round and will be a problem bolting last ring to the ring with the cement inside. It seems to me that when you add another ring, the bolt holes will make it line up and be whatever shape the bottom ring with the cement inside makes it. The 3rd ring had buckled and we cut off the bad part and will make a short ring out of that ring, Anyone ever done this? I know that the cement will need to cure for a week or so and I thought that that would let me pour cement sooner and give it longer to cure, plus I wouldn't have to worry about the wind. Planned to take 1 sheet out of wall about the 3rd ring to get the spout off of the cement truck inside the bin. Hope I explained this good enough, Open to sugestions. Chris

 

[super99]

trying to post picture

 

[super99]

Photobucket is giving me fits tonite

 

[Clint Youse MO]

[my expierence pour the pad and then anchor the bottom ring to it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

For my 2 cents, I would tie that sucker down real good right on the trailer pour your pad and then install additional rings and bolt that thing to the pad. Then later could if need be install floor.

RJ

 

[Anonymous-0]

It would seem to me it would line up like you say. I think it could be done, but then again Im no expert but it does seem logical to me that it would line up with the shape of the other.
I think it would be possible, I mean its got to go together if you can get the bolts started. You might have do some manuevering to get started on the bottom ring.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you decide to bolt to concrete pad you should have some sort of adapter plate to bolt to the pad using B7 studs with epoxy. If you do not have an adapter plate assembly you will have a problem maintaining the your radius and leakage will also be a problem. That is probably the reason it had a concrete base inside.

 

[Dave from MN]

What did you have to give for it, and how many bushel is it.

 

[504-2]

If think you might ever need to put in a sweep auger in make sure the bin is round, and BTW if you pour concrete against steel be sure to paint the steel or it will rot off at the concrete line.

 

[paul]

They often go about 10 cents a bu down around here. 3000 - 3500 bu bin. $100 or less for rusty or damaged like his was, & $400 for a good looking one that 2 neighbors want.

I'd pour a foundation & bolt it to the foundation. I hear you can bolt together a bottom ring, add a little extra sheet, & use that for the form. No experience. Should have some tho.....

--->Paul

 

[glennster]

we bought some used bins a while back, 2- fs 14,000 bu, one was a dryer and an 8,000 bu fs bin, also a dryer. 2 had stirraters in em. rented bin jacks, pulled the air floors and blocks, dropped em and moved em. we had pads poured at the other place and assembled the bins. doesnt sound like you have an air floor in you bin. give some thought as to how you are going to unload it before you do the pour. you may want to put a trough in the floor so you can get an auger in there to unload. a sweep would be nice too, there is a company that makes a sweep with an auger above the sweep to unload too. are you going to add a drying fan? my bins all have air floors and fans, they are bolted to the pads. just a few ideas to kick around.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Sounds like your main concern is with the wind. I'd build it to the final height, put a tractor or other machine on each side, and chain the bin to that.

 

[super99]

The bin will have a tube running in to center to hook a grain vac to. No air floor right now, thinking about some perforated tubes laying on the floor with about a 10" fan for aireation. I hire it hauled, and that's the easiest way to get the corn out. Might put a floor and fan on it sometime, not right now, just want to get it up and get corn in it. Supposed to be getting a couple extra rings for it to make it 8 rings high and plan to get some angle iron and make stiffeners for outside walls. Chris

 

[JD 1956 60]

Worked for Byron's Farm Store erecting new Butler bins, back in the 1960's. Poured the concrete pad first. I guess the best way to explain it is we assemble them from the top down. Top ring and roof first. Used the jacks similar to what you have pictured in your photo. Raised it and added the next ring, raised again and continued. When finished, bolted/anchored to the concrete base.