My ford died

CharlieC

Member
while I was a couple of miles away from home yesterday. I towed it home with the pickup.

The tractor is a 1973 4000, 3 cylinder.

Today I removed the front end loader bucket and started trouble shooting the fuel as that is what the problem seems like.

So the gas line and tank shut off valve are ok and the line to the settling bulb is ok. In another life some one has taken out the settling bulb screen and place an in line filter in the line just above the ignition coil.

At this point I believe it will be either the fuel pump or the carb.
My question is how likely is the fuel pump to go bad?

Doing some reading here I get the idea that you guys don't really like the Holey carbrator. Since I am going to go ahead and rebuild the carb as I will have it off, is it worth while to get the zenith carb?
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the first thing is to remove the plug on the bottom of the carb and see if your getting a good stream of fuel thru the carb, if not backtrack and see where its being stopped up, most fords dont use a inline fuel filter, the wrong one can cause the engine to starve for fuel, also check to make sure your getting fire to the plugs
 
fuel pumps DO fail.

rig a small clean tank right tot he carb. see if it works.

see if pump makes output.

I was workign on an industrial engie a while back and mec pump died. napa 1-4 psi electric pump went in just fine.

i'm not saying the pump is youre issue.. but do test it.

i'm also not saying go electric vs mech.

just telling you what i have done on an indst gasser engine on a wood chipper i worked on.
 

Old age got me once more. I forgot to mention that I did pull the plug on the carb and got maybe a forth of a cup before it quit draining.
 
There is nothing wrong with the design of the Holley carb. Indeed, it is more efficient than other tractor carburetors of the era.

If you do decide to rebuild it bite the bullet and buy a genuine CNH rebuild kit at your CNH dealer. Take both tractor and carburetor serial numbers with you when you order your kit.

Dean
 

You've got a fuel problem somewhere. Could be stuck float in carb or anything between there and the point after the tak that you've verified that you do have good fuel flow.
 
Charlie,

I'm not sure about the Ford 4000, but I have a 1973 Ford 2000 3 cylinder gas. About a year ago my engine sputtered to a stop and after a fair bit of troubleshooting, I determined that I wasn't getting gas out of the line from the fuel pump (lift pump) to the carburetor. I removed the top of the lift pump and found that the screen filter inside the pump was completely plugged with refuse. I removed the junk, cleaned the screen and put the top back on the lift pump.

I haven't had any trouble since then.

Many of the much better mechanics than I am say that you can remove the top of the pump and clean the screen without doing much other disassembly of the tractor, but I actually removed the tin from the front of the tractor and the radiator to get access to the pump. It was a bit of chore to do that, but it gave me unrestricted access to the pump.

Good luck with your troubleshooting.

Tom in TN
 
Went through a similar issue with my 2000 gasser. The screen on the fuel pump isn"t that hard to get at. Just remove the both hood tins (moveable and fixed) and you are right there. You"ll be surprised how easy it really is. You"ll also be surprised how much gunk is in there. Then get rid of the in-line filter. It"s got no business being there. The floats on the holley are fussy but not too bad. Get the good rebuild kit. g"luck.
 
Doug,

You are undoubtedly right about access to the fuel pump without removing the radiator - that's why I said that much better mechanics than I am can do it.

Next time I have to work on the pump, I'm going to try to access it without removing the radiator. Thanks for your post.

Tom in TN
 

Yesterday, I pulled the fuel filter off and cleaned the real fine crud out of it. The gasket is old and hard.
Today I went to the NH dealer, he looked up the number "C5NN9160A" and found it was not serviced any more.

Do you guys have any suggestions to a place where I can get one?
If not I guess that I will take pull the carb and remove the glass bowel filter.

I stoped at NAMPA and another auto parts store with no luck.
 


Well it took me long enough to get this problem fixed. It is the pits when you need a part and have to order it and wait a couple of days to a week for the parts to come in.

This turned into a two part problem. The real problem was that the points and condenser went bad. Had to wait a week for those to arrive. Replaced them an the tractor would run but would stumble and spit.

Ordered a carburetor repair kit for 109$. That took a week to arrive. A friend rebuilt the carb. He found that the pump was stuck tight because of alcohol laced gas that we have to live with. Got that all cleaned up and back on and now the tractor seems to run ok but have been busy with other things and have not realy given it a test.

Thanks for you folks input.
 
(quoted from post at 21:08:07 05/12/13)
Old age got me once more. I forgot to mention that I did pull the plug on the carb and got maybe a forth of a cup before it quit draining.

There's a mechanical fuel pump, so unless you were cranking on the starter while you were watching the carb drain, that's all I would expect.
 
For $14 are less bucks you can forever eliminate a spark issue.



http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we..._campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=22983650

works on all gas engines...

As for your stuck accelerator pump its most likely from trash in the fuel from a somewhat less desirable OEM filter system... Most accelerator-pump-less carbs tolerate dirty fuel but you Holley can not. If you have a clean tank I don't see any reason not to use a more efficient add on in-line filter...

I like Holley's and clean fuel are what ever it takes to deliver clean fuel :D BTW get rid of all those useless Holley's send them to me....

Who made your carb kit :?: I use the same one from TISCO on all of'em so far so good with a little fit'n...
 
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