My New Ford 3000

1955

Member
Hello all. I joined this site a long time ago when I bought my 1955 Allis Chalmers Ca. But I just haven't had much time to do anything with it.
So until I get time for that project, I wanted to buy an antique tractor that is ready to use, and I found this.

Strong runner, no smoke. Seller added LED accent rings in headlights and blue LED's under hood so engine glows blue.
Everything works.
It's an 8 speed with diff lock, but no power steering.

I just need an original looking headlight switch as the knob is missing from this one. I had a bunch of knobs from my old Mustangs and F100's but none would fit on this switch.
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Sorry for double posts of pics. I can't figure out how to delete them.

Anyway, had a friend help me decipher the VIN number.
Are we correct in thinking this is a 1967, built by day shift in Basildon England?

Numbers look like:
7A27B
7B2
B064729

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Nice looking 3000, it has European fenders and foot boards

Serial # B064729 is a early 67 model built in Basildon for export use
Early European models often had the transmission assembly date and the tractors assembly date stamped on the same side
All US built had the transmission assembly date on the opposite side along with the transmission code
I have found that when two date codes are stamped on the right side the latest date is the final assembly date
7A27B = 1967, January 27 on day shift
7B2 = 1967, February 2 with no shift letter
February 2 is the later date

No need to pay $21 for a incorrect design knob when you can purchase a new switch with correct design knob for less money

US style push pull switch

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European style rotary switch

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Both available on this site
 
First thing I would have to do is remove those led's. Even the picture of
them on hurt my eyes.
 
(quoted from post at 17:48:42 05/20/23)
Nice looking 3000, it has European fenders and foot boards

Serial # B064729 is a early 67 model built in Basildon for export use
Early European models often had the transmission assembly date and the tractors assembly date stamped on the same side
All US built had the transmission assembly date on the opposite side along with the transmission code
I have found that when two date codes are stamped on the right side the latest date is the final assembly date
7A27B = 1967, January 27 on day shift
7B2 = 1967, February 2 with no shift letter
February 2 is the later date

No need to pay $21 for a incorrect design knob when you can purchase a new switch with correct design knob for less money

US style push pull switch

mvphoto105905.jpg


European style rotary switch

mvphoto105906.jpg


Both available on this site

That is awesome Destroked 450! Thank you!
I was just out looking at the light switch that is in it. Must be the European because it is a rotary switch and it has 4 or 5 wires going on to it.
Until I get a switch, I just stuck a 1/4 inch socket over the shaft, so at least I can turn it now, LOL
 
Since it's a Basildon tractor, I would expect it to have originally had the headlights inset in the lower grill rather than out on the sides, but that could have easily been changed over the years.
 
(quoted from post at 02:21:39 05/21/23) Whomever redid that tractor, it was a labor of love. Congrats on a good looking outfit.

I don't know if he wants his name mentioned, but he is a diesel mechanic and has a farm and he does tractors as a hobby.

Some people don't like the modifications, but it brings a smile to my face. I'm not worried about collector value. I just like it.
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Discovered one other thing not functioning. Despite having video of this tractor at work on the farm, I cannot move the crank on the 3 point lift arm for leveling the implement.

Any advice, or do you think it will need to be replaced?
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This post was edited by 1955 on 05/21/2023 at 07:44 am.
 
(quoted from post at 10:43:00 05/21/23) Discovered one other thing not functioning. Despite having video of this tractor at work on the farm, I cannot move the crank on the 3 point lift arm for leveling the implement.

Any advice, or do you think it will need to be replaced?

This post was edited by 1955 on 05/21/2023 at 07:44 am.

Hopefully it's just stuck from being painted, or maybe the grease inside has dried up. I would try heating it with a torch and see if it will turn, and if it does, pump it full of fresh grease. Even if it won't turn on the first application of heat, see if you can pump any grease into it while it's warmed up and if so, let it set for a couple of days and repeat. Add grease to the lower fitting down on the tube as well.
 

Thanks, I'll try that. But I'll wait until after the two shows I want to attend this summer before I mess up the paint, then I'll try it and can repaint.

If they are screwed, what years are the same? I looked on Yesterday's Tractor and I see they sell them for the older Fords, but I didn't see a listing for the 3000?
 
(quoted from post at 22:18:42 05/21/23)
Thanks, I'll try that. But I'll wait until after the two shows I want to attend this summer before I mess up the paint, then I'll try it and can repaint.

If they are screwed, what years are the same? I looked on Yesterday's Tractor and I see they sell them for the older Fords, but I didn't see a listing for the 3000?

With the LED lights, I assume that you aren't going for originality, so the leveling box from a 3 cylinder 2000(1965-1975), 3000(1965-1975), 2600(1975-1981), 3600(1975-1981), 2610(1981-1983) or 3610(1981-1983) should work fine, but they did make different lengths, so measure the non-adjustable one on the left side, pin-to-pin. It should be either 62" or 55", and then purchase accordingly, as the adjustable ones are listed by the same lengths, which I believe is the middle of their adjustment range so that you can either raise or lower the right side relative to the left to get things level.
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:34 05/22/23)
(quoted from post at 22:18:42 05/21/23)
Thanks, I'll try that. But I'll wait until after the two shows I want to attend this summer before I mess up the paint, then I'll try it and can repaint.

If they are screwed, what years are the same? I looked on Yesterday's Tractor and I see they sell them for the older Fords, but I didn't see a listing for the 3000?

With the LED lights, I assume that you aren't going for originality, so the leveling box from a 3 cylinder 2000(1965-1975), 3000(1965-1975), 2600(1975-1981), 3600(1975-1981), 2610(1981-1983) or 3610(1981-1983) should work fine, but they did make different lengths, so measure the non-adjustable one on the left side, pin-to-pin. It should be either 62" or 55", and then purchase accordingly, as the adjustable ones are listed by the same lengths, which I believe is the middle of their adjustment range so that you can either raise or lower the right side relative to the left to get things level.

Okay perfect. Thanks. I'll try to free this one up and if not I'll start searching for one. Probably just buy one anyway. Never hurts to have spares.
 

One other question. How reliable are these Simm's fuel injection pumps? Are parts readily available still if I ever do have a problem?

Anything else I should be worried about or stock piling parts for?
 
The Simms in-line pumps are very reliable, especially if the oil has been changed regularly. They have their own oil sump for internal lubrication, and you should use the same oil that you use in the engine, and change the oil in the pump every time that you change the oil in the engine. If something should need to be repaired, parts are still available, and most good diesel repair shops should be able to find parts and rebuild them. There are a couple of members on here that rebuild them at a fair price as well.
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:31 05/20/23) First thing I would have to do is remove those led's. Even the picture of
them on hurt my eyes.
would be embarrassed, myself. :oops:
 
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