My new ride

kenbob

Well-known Member
Here are a couple of pictures of my new ride I got yesterday. It is a 1964 model, and a heavy duty undustrial I guess. It has a fixed front axle and fixed rear hitch. Are those extensions on the front wheels factory? Are there any other things different on this type rather than the normal 550? Thanks all.
 

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If by extensions you mean the hub, it looks normal to me. I'm not sure those are original wheels as the rim is dished inward to push the wheel out further, but otherwise looks normal. If you post more pictures with a little more detail we might be able to see other things and help you out.
 
Will do as I get into it. Many questions, some not answered by the manual I have. Mine has the pto lever ahead of the seat instead of behind. Which way is the engagement. I ask as it runs all the time (not free wheeling). Also the inspection plate for the pto under the tractor is missing. Is there a source for that--new or used?
 
If I remember (I don't have my 550 anymore): To the rear front is engaged. You should have good snap on the lever. The PTO may generally spin when disengaged due to normal drag, and the clutches can be adjusted. You could do the 2x4 test and see if the PTO stops turning when not engaged, or hook up something PTO driven like a mower and see if it stops when hooked to a load. If not, chances are your PTO clutch plates are probably warped beyond adjustment but if not:

Copied from another post: To adjust the clutch, stop engine, release pto lever (pull it rearward) Remove hand hole cover from under the tractor. The hand hole cover is about in the center of the tractor held in place by four small bolts. Reach through the hand hole and rotate the pto clutch assembly until the adjusting ring lock pin is on the bottom of the assembly. With a screwdriver tip, depress the locking pin and rotate the adjusting ring to the next notch. Clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease clutch engagement pressure. Very easy to do, it may take a few notches to get it adjusted correctly.


Parts are generally available from salvage yards. If you have the original drawbar, that's kind of neat and handy because those were an option. I don't recall who bought Kent Gordon's inventory, but I'm sure he will be along. Ebay is a good source, if you are a FB user there is an Oliver/White classified group. Maibach has a large inventory of salvage parts. Manuals are everywhere, factory manuals are the best. Operator's manuals and service manuals are available from many retailers, but we like to recommend the Floyd County Museum in Charles City, IA. They also will have the original build card for your tractor for purchase. Neat stuff to dorks like us.
 
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If I remember (I don't have my 550 anymore): To the rear is engaged. You should have good snap on the lever. The PTO may generally spin when disengaged due to normal drag, and the clutches can be adjusted. You could do the 2x4 test and see if the PTO stops turning when not engaged, or hook up something PTO driven like a mower and see if it stops when hooked to a load. If not, chances are your PTO clutch plates are probably warped beyond adjustment but if not:

Copied from another post: To adjust the clutch, stop engine, release pto lever (push it forward) Remove hand hole cover from under the tractor. The hand hole cover is about in the center of the tractor held in place by four small bolts. Reach through the hand hole and rotate the pto clutch assembly until the adjusting ring lock pin is on the bottom of the assembly. With a screwdriver tip, depress the locking pin and rotate the adjusting ring to the next notch. Clockwise to increase, counterclockwise to decrease clutch engagement pressure. Very easy to do, it may take a few notches to get it adjusted correctly.


Parts are generally available from salvage yards. If you have the original drawbar, that's kind of neat and handy because those were an option. I don't recall who bought Kent Gordon's inventory, but I'm sure he will be along. Ebay is a good source, if you are a FB user there is an Oliver/White classified group. Maibach has a large inventory of salvage parts. Manuals are everywhere, factory manuals are the best. Operator's manuals and service manuals are available from many retailers, but we like to recommend the Floyd County Museum in Charles City, IA. They also will have the original build card for your tractor for purchase. Neat stuff to dorks like us.
The pto lever by the steering wheel is forward to engage and back to disengage. Should have a lock on it to keep it off-disengaged. The front wheel hub is the same as my 1650. Larger wheel bearings on the fixed front axle. Those wheels look like off a gravity wagon or something.
 
The pto lever by the steering wheel is forward to engage and back to disengage. Should have a lock on it to keep it off-disengaged. The front wheel hub is the same as my 1650. Larger wheel bearings on the fixed front axle. Those wheels look like off a gravity wagon or something.


Thanks. I'll correct mine.
 
Update: The pto inspection cover was missing but I have a new one ordered from Obrien Co Implement. I am surprised They can still get them. Since the hole has been open to the air for a while I sprayed some lube up in there and now it works as it should--though I have yet to test on an implement. Runs crappier today than yesterday, figuring old gas is the problem. I think I got the non-working tach fixed. Took it down the road, and it wanders a bit. So the next question, not really addressed anywhere: This tractor had power steering. THe pump is still in front without a belt, the cylinders are gone. The lines that go to the cylinders are just hanging there uncapped. Does this mean there is no lube in the box. I was looking for a seperate plug for gear lube but don't see it. I found the adjuster, which looks like it has never been adjusted. I did find some yellow paint, so maybe used for road work. Has 26" tires in the back which would worry me if I thought I would live long enough to wear out the tires. Thanks for all the imput. I will post additional pictures soon.
 
THe wide front hubs make the front wheels in line with the back for row crop work. Guessing a tractor bought by a highway crew wouldn't need anything but an unadjustable front.
 
THe wide front hubs make the front wheels in line with the back for row crop work. Guessing a tractor bought by a highway crew wouldn't need anything but an unadjustable front.
Usually if a loader was needed the solid front axle was ordered. If you needed to do row crop work the adjustable axle was ordered. My brother had a Super 55 and we broke the bolts, on the adjustable front,a couple times using the loader on it. Don't know when Oliver started offering the solid axle.
 
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