NAA fluids

[edhOH]

First off, I apologize for posting this question, as I know it has been answered many times. There is something about the search function of this site and my computer that just don't mesh. I cannot move back and forth through the seach mechanism. Rather than spend an hour trying to find the info, I'm taking the easy way out and just asking. Thanks in advance for understanding and posting any replies.

I've got an NAA and I need to change all the fluids. I have only changed the engine oil, I have not changed the trans, hydr, or rear end oil in the tractor before. I've got another week until I move to a new place and I would like to do this while I still have a decent place to work inside.

I can remember reading different opinions on what fluids work best. What do you all use? UTF in all three sumps? 90w in the rear end?

It's gonna be a worker, as I have a lot of work that needs done at the new place.

Again, sorry for the redundant question. Thanks again for your willingness to share your knowledge and experiences.

 

[TBprnaa]

You are correct that there are 3 separate sumps. I replaced all of my fluids in a Jubilee last fall with 134d UTF and have had good luck. Tractor is in north central MN and was used through November and some freezing temps. No leaking yet.
It is your choice. 90 wt. might not leak around older gaskets/seals but might be heavy for the hydraulics in cold temps.
One thing to consider is that even though sumps are separate, the shaft runs through all three. If seals are leaky, different fluids can mix.
Don't feel bad, this question comes up often.
Tim

 

[TBprnaa]

Forgot to mention to check out the 'N' forum on this site. Plenty of know how from NAA owners there.
Tim

 

[souNdguy]

You don't put the 90wt in the NAA+ hyds.. it gets utf or hyd oil ONLY !!

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

utf in all 3 rear sumps, or gear oil in the trans and diffy.. and utf in the hyds.. your choice.

in cold area with a good non leaking system.. I'd go utf.. in moderste climates.. I'd go gear oil in the trans and diffy, and utf in the hyds.

if you have leaky inter-sump seals.. go utf in all 3.

soundguy

 

[TBprnaa]

soundguy,
you are right and thanks for catching my mistake. Should have re-read my manual(s) before I opened my on-line yapper.
Tim

 

[LeoinMI]

It is a matter of preference. I followed advice from soundguy and put 80/90w in the tranny and differential and utf 134 in the hydraulics. That was in September,so far no leaks and all hydraulics work fine. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[36 Coupe]

Take a look at the Ford service mamual.It says 80 or 90 gear oil for the hydraulic systems in tractors with seperate sumps.I finally got the 134 out of my 640 hydraulic system.The hydraulic system lost lift when temps went above 60 degrees.I could pick an ash log 12 feet long in cold weather but 4 bales of hay were the limit in summer.My vane pump is worn but the problem is fixed with 15 bucks worth of 90wt mineral oil.Ford Motor Co never specified 134.The tractor had no problem picking up the cordwood saw lst sept.during hot weather with the engine idling.With 134 the engine had to be run at 1000 rpm to pick up the saw.A fellow who worked at a Ford dealer said the people who switched to 134 complain the lifts had trouble lifting.

 

[NoNewParts]

Ed,
Here is the page out of my NAA owners manual
It shows hydraulic oil in the hydraulic case and
Extreme Pressure Lubricant in the rear and tranny.

.

 

[john_Bud]

(quoted from post at 03:42:27 03/31/10)

.My vane pump is worn but the problem is fixed with 15 bucks worth of 90wt mineral oil.

.

You have a mechanical problem that is with your machine. Choices are to fix the mechanical problem or cover it with a band-aid(tm). It is however, NOT correct for you to tell people that have correctly working machines to use the wrong fluid.

Use of gear oil in the hydraulics can lead to sheared gears on the pump, broken pump drive shaft and broken camshaft when the temps get down and the lube turns near solid.


For the OP, I would recommend you to remove the manifold between the trans and the hydraulic pump and the PTO engage cover on the differential and really clean out the tubes and the bottom of the sump. There will be an incredible amount of gunk built up! The gunk in the tubes leads to water collection and rust. Then run UTF in the system. It's more work, but will make the tractor last longer.

jb

 

[36 Coupe]

John go read the 600 series service manual.Google the numbers and come up with 80 90 weight.Lost of lift says thinning oil.Been in hydraulics since mid 50s.