(quoted from post at 12:39:15 01/08/12) IN an ideal world, when the tractor is new, the manual will work. However in the real world, it took me 4 attempts to get my adjustments to where they would work in the implement position only. I could care less if the draft position works, because I don't have any plans to plow with my Jub.
I recently posted on the ford sight, where I made a 1/2 cam follower, 12-14-2011, because you will find your cam and pin have almost 60 years of wear. I couldn't get my controls to even come close to using the manual's procedure.
Went to the Ford archives and found where someone made their own adjustment procedure. First the only tool you need is a 1/4 inch square piece of metal. I used a 1/4 inch metal lathe bit. When the control rod is 1/4 inch out you are in the neutral position, you stop lifting. Anything less than 1/4 inch will cause the piston to come out, lift arms go up. Anything more than 1/4 inch will cause the arms to drop.
Before you make any adjustments, remove your control arm, the external lever you move up and down. This will allow you to take all your internal control levers out. My guess is you may want to replace the cam follower pin. This will allow you to drive the pin out and replace it. Look at all the parts and you will find they don't fit together very well. Mine had a lot of rust and wear. I had to use shim stock to tighten up some of them. Had to add a washer to push the entire controls over so the cam follower would be closer to the cam.
Because of all the wear, I took a 1/2 inch #2 bolt and spun one end down to fit the 5/16 inch hole the cam follower pin is pressed in. Some of the boys here never fail to gave me heck for the things I do, They said the #2 wasn't hard enough. So what, do you want a harder cam follower pin to do more damage to the cam? Either way, there is going to be wear. The 1/2 in pin I make was just enough to compensate for all the cam wear. By the way, you can remove the sump fill plug and see the cam follower pin, so it's no big deal to me. If there is a next time for me, I'll take a 5/8 inch bolt, spin a part of it down to 1/2 inch to put a brass bushing on for a bearing, then turn the other end down to fit the 5/16 hole. That way, I'll have a bearing to rub on the cam.
Back to the adjusting procedure that worked for me. Put your control lever within an inch of the lowest position, and move the lift arms to the lowest position. There is a rod that moves the control rod that looks like a turn buckle. Adjust that rod for a 1/4 inch space on the control rod. Make sure the turn buckle ends up looking straight with the lever that moves it and both ends of the turn buckle are in the up position, otherwise you may get some binding. Keep in mind this adjustment will allow your arms to drop when you move the control lever down.
Next move your control lever to within an inch of the top. Move your lift arms all the way up. Loosen the acorn nut on the tappet bolt, and adjust the tappet bolt to get the control rod in the neutral position, 1/4 inch.
Before you put it together, make sure all your adjusting levers line up. The lever that is connected to the turn buckle has a cam pin too. Make sure this pin will come in contact with the piston, stopping it from coming all the way out the cylinder.
I coated the cam with white grease. Cleaned the dirt and rust out of the bottom of the sump, filled sump with oil and assembled.
OK, now is the time for all the Nay Sayers to unload.
Hope this helps you. LOL
George
