naa wont start.

[Jon4020]

1954 NAA
12 Volt
Ran today but rough. Timing was off and in my attempt to time it with a timing light it would not run properly. I just got a used carb from ebay, so pulled it off, cleaned thouroughly and reinstalled, now it wont start.

-Fuel is flowing strong out the bottom plug in float bowl.
-Floats aren't sticking.
-Fat blue spark.
I left my timing light on so as I turn it over I can watch it fire and it fires.
I pulled my plugs and tested spark and was fat blue, and plugs were not flooded. they were dry.

I'm not sure where to go as I have good spark and good fuel flowing.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

Thank you kindly.
She puffs but wont fire up.

 

[Beanmedic]

Jon4020,

If you have good spark to the plugs, unless you have the points or timing way off, you have a fuel problem. Did you turn the distributor? You said plugs were not flooded and were dry. It is possible you have fuel to the carb, but not past it. You should have seen flooded, wet plugs. Check to see if you have gas at the choke butterfly. I assume you were choking it? Choke with your hand and see if you get gas there.

 

[Jon4020]

So I went back out and pulled the carb and went through it again, cleaned, reassembled and put it back on.

The spark is still really strong, blue.

I pulled the plugs and they were wet but still had spark against the block.

The distributor was being turned as originally I was attempting to time it using a light but it was running so rough so before timing it I cleaned the carb.

I had just got the carb off ebay and was lazy and put it on without cleaning first so after it was running rough I thought should clean aswell.

But since that it will not start.

I jumped ignition switch aswell even though I do have spark and still won't fire up.

I also tried starting fluid and nothing.

I will have to get a compression tester and test tomorrow as I am running out of options.

Am I missing something obvious ?
I am frustrated and maybe not thinking clearly so I'm going to stop tonight as I need to rest and tackle it fresh tomorrow.

 

[Beanmedic]

If plugs are wet it is flooded. Flooded plugs won't start. You can dry them and heat the electrodes with a propane torch to remove the deposits and reinstall. Check gap. If I remember .025?

Search this site archives for the setting timing. You need to set timing by finding top dead center of #1 plug and distributor placement. If you have not removed the distributor, I wouldn't yet. Putting it back in you can be off 180 degrees. Set the timing using static (motor not running) method and try starting again with plugs dry, deposits removed and gap set. Did you mess with the points?

Try not to mess with anything you didn't previously change. Adding more changes to the mix makes it VERY difficult to determine what the original problem was because you may introduce NEW problems.

Fresh start in the morning is always better. Turning in here too. There is always someone on here, so post back if you remain stuck.

 

[Jon4020]

it ran today.
had it running decent, just was a bit rough so cleaned the carb.
nothing touched except carb.

it was when I put the carb back on its wouldn t start.
The carb was from ebay so I cleaned it out and it was a mess inside.

Then I reinstalled it and cranked but it would not start. Battery is strong, connections clean and tight.

Even with the wet plugs the spark was strong.

Distributor was not out so its not off by 180.

Plugs wires were not touched, points are untouched and agaian I have a good blue spark so I'm assuming based on the fact it was running, and only change to affect it was the carb cleaning.

I will go back to my first step which caused this and look at the carb again and see if something is a mess there.

I have put several back together and this one went smooth, but I may have missed so I'll try again.

I was adjusting the timing to a rough running carb so now I'm sure it is definatly out of wack but it was running decent so I know its not too far off.

Thanks for your help, much appreciated

 

[Beanmedic]

Wish I could help more. Sounds like you are on the right track. Likely carb...maybe timing complicating start up.

Just for grins check your firing order.

Now I am really going to bed!

David

 

[NoNewParts]

like David said, back up to the original problem.
tractor ran, new carb, no run

since you moved the distributor,
static time the engine by the book and clamp it down and leave it.
(DollarBill and JMOR I think have posted step by step static timing info)
since it is so fast/easy, go thru the carb one more time.
new carb-manifold gasket
hook the linkage up right
idle screw out about 1 turn, main out about 1 1/2 turn.
new 437 plugs
start it

I leave the air cleaner off until I get them running,
hook it back up before final carb adjustments
NAA- after it's a runner, mark the flywheel at 29-31 degrees
and use your timing light to set it at the 29-31 degrees total advance
at 2000 rpm and don't worry about where it falls at idle.
(this is assuming properly functioning advance weights)
also, on a ebay carb, when you are going thru it, watch for PO modifications. ie missing parts, drilled jets, etc

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 06:56:43 06/10/12) like David said, back up to the original problem.
tractor ran, new carb, no run

since you moved the distributor,
static time the engine by the book and clamp it down and leave it.
(DollarBill and JMOR I think have posted step by step static timing info)
since it is so fast/easy, go thru the carb one more time.
new carb-manifold gasket
hook the linkage up right
idle screw out about 1 turn, main out about 1 1/2 turn.
new 437 plugs
start it

I leave the air cleaner off until I get them running,
hook it back up before final carb adjustments
NAA- after it's a runner, mark the flywheel at 29-31 degrees
and use your timing light to set it at the 29-31 degrees total advance
at 2000 rpm and don't worry about where it falls at idle.
(this is assuming properly functioning advance weights)
also, on a ebay carb, when you are going thru it, watch for PO modifications. ie missing parts, drilled jets, etc

As David said, "If plugs are wet it is flooded. Flooded plugs won't start. You can dry them and heat the electrodes with a propane torch to remove the deposits and reinstall." OR try a new set. Once wet, they have invisible 'stuff' on them & often won't spark under pressure of compression.

 

[Jon4020]

Hi guys.

She's running like a top now.

I actually gave the starter a tap with the rubber mallet since it was clicking at the solenoid and she freed up instantly. light tap i might add.

So she finally fired up and I timed it right now, so should be good to go, it was running about 20 minutes and took for a test drive. i just rebuilt my steering box aswell and it s like power steering !
I used grease instead of gear lube and just fit a grease nipple in the oil fill spout, never leaks at all and steers beautifully.

So once again thanks for all your help. I love this forum.

Have a great day!

 

[Beanmedic]

Cool! That's what the forum is for.

While on a roll why not address that starter "clicking" issue? Make SURE battery is fully charged and check and clean connections and wires in the start circuit. The tap you had to do is a predictor of the tractor not starting when you next need it. It means you have a new problem. It could be as simple as a poorly charged battery or poor conductor(s) or poor connection(s) or lack of a shiny contact area where the starter mounts...or combination of any of the above. Check those before you start buying parts.

So it goes with these old machines. They like care and upkeep.

And, post a picture of her when you can!