NAPA ON/OFF 2 Pole Ignition Switch

[Hobo,NC]

I stumbled across this switch Napa KS6040 its a direct replacement for the chitty OEM switch... It has two 6-32 screws to hook up the wires so you would need wire ends for it... It went on a 2N in the original hole no problems... Hood back on its ready to ship... I am a happy camper TILL I noticed the key could be removed with the switch in the on position so I read up on it that's the way its made I get to lick this calf again...




http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ition-Starter-Switch/_/R-ECHKS6040_0460633752

 

[Royse]

I like it and for my use the key removal wouldn't bother me.
I have one going bad now. Still works electrically but getting
hard to turn. I might check this out as a replacement.
Only down side is I might now need three keys to start all of
my tractors; not counting those rope and heavy metal ones. 8)

 

[Bob Harvey]

Have you looked at 'Marine' switches ? There are about a gillion of them, maybe one would be suitable. HTH

 

[Richard G.]

Hobo, I bought one of those switches. Was mad when I realized it would come out and get lost out working.
Glued it in place with a little silicone. Also have a master cut off switch mounted in the dash.
Richard in NW SC

 

[ASEguy]

I got rid of that cheap 2-wire switch too. My brand new one lasted only a month or two before it went out and I bought one from an old auto parts store as well. At my age I like to reduce my headaches.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 07:58:15 09/02/15) I like it and for my use the key removal wouldn't bother me.
I have one going bad now. Still works electrically but getting
hard to turn. I might check this out as a replacement.
Only down side is I might now need three keys to start all of
my tractors; not counting those rope and heavy metal ones. 8)

I have a different # coming later today the info says the KEY will stay put in the on position... BTW it has a ACC position with out the start position... ACC would be nice to have on a 12V conversion to do away with the diode trick :wink:

I am just playing with switches the original style I put on about 5 years ago will turn past the on position right far and gives everyone a fit other than there dad who is smart enough to know the difference...

BTW what media are you using to blast carbs...

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 20:16:10 09/01/15) I stumbled across this switch Napa KS6040 its a direct replacement for the chitty OEM switch... It has two 6-32 screws to hook up the wires so you would need wire ends for it... It went on a 2N in the original hole no problems... Hood back on its ready to ship... I am a happy camper TILL I noticed the key could be removed with the switch in the on position so I read up on it that's the way its made I get to lick this calf again...




http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ition-Starter-Switch/_/R-ECHKS6040_0460633752

Do a Google search for "keyed switch". No shortage of possibilities ;-) Digi-Key alone lists 84 in a variety of configurations....

DigiKey Switches

This one for $12 is 4A and has one removable key position :

CKC8010-ND

TOH

 

[Royse]

I went back to black sand. I was using glass bead.
The black sand is fast and easier for me to see.

 

[Hobo,NC]

UP DATE, a KS6041 is what i was looking for... Has on/off and ACC side FITS PERFECT...

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ition-Starter-Switch/_/R-ECHKS6041_0006366367

 

[Hobo,NC]

And a voltmeter

Key on engine off battery volotage

Crank'N voltage

Charging voltage

How many amp meters can tell you that information the information you need when you have a starting/charging issue are just the info you need to operate it...

In seconds I just confirmed the battery, starter, ignition switch and the alternator and I don't have a degree in anything who'dah thunk it...

 

[Hobo,NC]

I picked up a nice blaster on cracklist last week it had glass beads in it I dumped them and saved then for soft metal and use what I had on hand SAND. Asking around to figure out what will work the best for general rust/paint on steel/cast... Thanks

 

[Gaspump]

Man I prefer glass beads over anything. For heavy rust #4 glass beads. I also like black magic and I sometimes use aluminum oxide for all around blasting.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 19:22:45 09/02/15)
I picked up a nice blaster on cracklist last week it had glass beads in it I dumped them and saved then for soft metal and use what I had on hand SAND. Asking around to figure out what will work the best for general rust/paint on steel/cast... Thanks

Sand is cheap but not real effective. Plus SOME people worry about silicosis but my son made me buy a decent respirator ;-)

For general purpose and low cost blasting Black Magic is relatively inexpensive and effective. If I am open blasting that would be my first choice followed by a good quality [b:5552c1c149][u:5552c1c149]blasting[/u:5552c1c149][/b:5552c1c149] sand if I need high volumes of media. Blasting sand is not something you will get at Lowes or Home Depot ;-) It is carefully controlled for aggregate size and moisture content and you will probably have to search for a supplier in your area. I have to go 50+ miles to Baltimore to get it.

For contained blasting in a cabinet aluminum oxide is a very effective blast media but costly as are glass beads. Black magic is a more economical alternative and readily available product. In general it is my number one choice but I use all of the above as indicated by the budget and job at hand.

TOH

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 06:13:39 09/04/15)

(quoted from post at 19:22:45 09/02/15)
I picked up a nice blaster on cracklist last week it had glass beads in it I dumped them and saved then for soft metal and use what I had on hand SAND. Asking around to figure out what will work the best for general rust/paint on steel/cast... Thanks

Sand is cheap but not real effective. Plus SOME people worry about silicosis but my son made me buy a decent respirator ;-)

For general purpose and low cost blasting Black Magic is relatively inexpensive and effective. If I am open blasting that would be my first choice followed by a good quality [b:caa22283d3][u:caa22283d3]blasting[/u:caa22283d3][/b:caa22283d3] sand if I need high volumes of media. Blasting sand is not something you will get at Lowes or Home Depot ;-) It is carefully controlled for aggregate size and moisture content and you will probably have to search for a supplier in your area. I have to go 50+ miles to Baltimore to get it.

For contained blasting in a cabinet aluminum oxide is a very effective blast media but costly as are glass beads. Black magic is a more economical alternative and readily available product. In general it is my number one choice but I use all of the above as indicated by the budget and job at hand.

TOH

When I said sand I meant sandblasting sand its available in bulk about 35/40 miles from me... I always have kept a bag on hand, I have been told about this place its pert neer in a my backyard I did not know what they did are sold.....

http://www.rodeco.com/

For now I am going to try small amounts of different media to find out what I like best, its not much trouble to dump the media in this blaster...

 

[GarryinNC]

Hobo,
I use 80 or 100 grit aluminum oxide quite a bit. Cleans rust and paint fairly well and leaves a smooth flat finish. I use glass beads for a finer finish etc.

Your not so close neighbor,
Garry