Need a torque wrench

tomstractorsandtoys

Well-known Member
I need to get a better 1/2 inch torque wrench. I do 1 or 2 engine overhauls per year. I had a cheap one and no longer trust it. Would you buy new mid grade or used Snap-on? What other brands? See some Matco and Proto on Ebay. I woulds spend $200 for one. What do you use or recommend? Thanks Tom
 
I really like the CDI torque wrench. It's made by Snap-on but at a much better price. Mine has held up well.

I wouldn't trust a used one as there are too many people who don't know how to properly use one. I saw this too many times before I retired. Folks wouldn't turn it back down after use or would use it like a pull handle ignoring the click.
 
(quoted from post at 07:39:13 02/06/22) I need to get a better 1/2 inch torque wrench. I do 1 or 2 engine overhauls per year. I had a cheap one and no longer trust it. Would you buy new mid grade or used Snap-on? What other brands? See some Matco and Proto on Ebay. I woulds spend $200 for one. What do you use or recommend? Thanks Tom

"Precision Instruments" makes GREAT torque wrenches, I understand they make units of some of the "tooltruck" companies.

I have several of their wrenches and have been well satisfied.

http://www.torqwrench.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-In...on+instruments+prec3fr250f,aps,510&sr=8-1

This post was edited by wore out on 02/06/2022 at 07:19 am.
 
I bought both of my Snap-On torque wrenches from pawn shops. Both on ebay. No regrets. I keep them in their cases and inside and they work good.
 
If you get a clicker, be sure it works both clockwise and counterclockwise. Ring gear bolts are left-hand thread, I discovered.
 
I've got a Craftsman that is about five years old. I do not like it. It will not stay set for the torque you desire even though it has a lock.
 
MarkB,

Where was that nugget of wisdom when I was un-doing a ring gear from the front of a chevy 4x4 truck?!


I snapped 3 of them til I figured that out. Then on the search for left=hand threaded hardened bolts....

D.
 
Not many people will spring for these- Snap-on. They are the Cadillac of torque wrenches - In lb --ft. lbs newton meters and angle. They have indicator lights and beep when the torque is reached. I have them both. About $650.00 each.
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If you know anyone who works for a larger machine shop or assembly plant, they will likely have a tool for checking calibration on torque wrenches. I bought a used Cooper Tools torque wrench and have checked it against a calibrator and it has been right on.
Example
 
(quoted from post at 10:39:13 02/06/22) I need to get a better 1/2 inch torque wrench. I do 1 or 2 engine overhauls per year. I had a cheap one and no longer trust it. Would you buy new mid grade or used Snap-on? What other brands? See some Matco and Proto on Ebay. I woulds spend $200 for one. What do you use or recommend? Thanks Tom
I second M-MAN. Bought this wrench (through Zoro, best price at the time).

CDI 1503MFRMH

Well made, comes with certificate of calibration and can be sent in for re-calibration. I paid $123.00 in 2018. Opted for the version with metal handle.
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I checked my HF against the old school torque wrench.
MY HF is JUNK. I use it as a breaker bar.
Menards sells the old school torque wrench for around $20.
No more than I do, that's good enough for me. No worrying about calibration.
 

Amazing the engines that were stuck together with the old style torque wrenches with the pointer didn't fall to pieces. Why, some of those torque values were likely 5 or 10 lbs off!!! It's a wonder life as we know it didn't end.
 
We have the Snap-on electric 1/2 inch drive and 3/8 drive. You can switch units of measurement and it does angle measurement for TTY bolts also. Might be a bit pricey for only a couple overhauls per year, but we haven't had any issues except for batteries going out at the wrong time.
 

I have brought a few cheap brands used at yard sales they all were junk. My go to 1/2" and 3/8 are SK the rest are Mac digital. One feature I love is a flex head both Macs have that are I would not have brought them. I will never ware out the Macs because Its rare I use them they are to hard to set up. I remove the battery's every time they could not had made them harder to remove install.

How did we survive with nothing are only a beam I still grab my 1/4" beam for differential work. I would have no problem using a 1/2" beam as long as I could see the indicator well.
 
I have been using Proto for over 50 years building and rebuilding engines and anything that calls for a specific torque. We tried Snap-On at work because we had a pushy local rep. We had several work stations so we did a half and half set, Snap-On failed or needed recalibrated before the Proto every time. And price difference was a factor too.

I currently have 4 sizes of metric and 4 sizes of foot or inch pounds in my tool boxes, all Proto. I retired from the corporate nonsense world but I am still busy wrenching about every day. I have a good shop local I take mine to and they never charge me to check calibration.
 
I bought a Snap on 52-53 years ago when my beam style did not go high enough to pull down a head on a small diesel i had my fingers in . . The good OLD Snap on guy use to check for free for years once a year , then the NEW GUY CAME ON And nothing was free Now they hammer ya last time was 107 bucks to recal. I have two Mac's one Proto the big 600 Ft.lb one and still have my three beam ones that never need recal. Just glasses to read the scale.
 
Tom. I owned a tire shop for 22+ years. Every tire we took off and put back on was torqued down. We kept 3+ torque wrenches around all the time. We would buy the cheaper clicker wrenches. We always had 1 or 2 of them in for calabration. Snap on man started stopping and sold me a used wrench. From then on I only bought Snap on Wrenches. I wound up with 4 of them. We never had a ratcheting head on one go bad like we did with the cheaper ones. He was able to calabrate them. They were a heavier duty wrench than the cheaper ones we had been using. I highly recommend them over anything else.
 
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