Need help identifying hay rake

neverrains

New User
I'm new to farming.

First time using this old girl and the sprocket on the axle broke.

I searched all over for a brand and a model number but didn't find anything.

Any idea what make and model this old girl is?

mvphoto107337.jpg


mvphoto107338.jpg
 
I might also be a Massey rake as hard to tell. But that can
be welded up , as u see it was already cracked and u
finished it off in a hard pull
 

I agree, it seems to be an early model Allis-Chalmers 77G. After some googling, I'm seeing many belt driven examples but have yet to find a chain driven one yet.

Any idea where I could find a replacement sprocket? I know it's not going to be easy
 
That chain is just double pitch roller
chain. Probably 2040 or 2050. You can use a
regular roller chain sprocket for #40 or
#50 (or whatever it is) chain available
anywhere, and very cheap. It'll have twice
as many teeth (spaced at half the pitch),
and half of them won't get used, but it'll
work just fine. Probably way better than
the original because the roller chain
sprocket will be hardened steel while the
original is cast. I've done this a few
times when cast double-pitch sprockets have
cracked like yours.

In case you're not familiar with roller
chain, the '4' or '5' in the number 40 or
50 (or whatever it is) refers to the pitch
in eights of an inch. So a #40 chain has a
pitch distance of 4/8'' (or 1/2'') per
link. A lot of ag manufacturers use double-
pitch roller chain to save on cost (half as
many teeth to machine and fewer links
required), which is what you have, and the
'20' of 2040 or 2050 (or whatever)
indicates that it's double pitch. So in
your case, measure the pitch distance of
one chain link (centre to centre of the
rollers/pins), divide it in half, and
that'll tell you what size roller chain you
need your sprocket to be for. Count the
number of teeth on your cracked sprocket,
multiply it by two, and that'll tell you
the number of teeth you need on your new
sprocket. Measure the shaft with a vernier
and buy a sprocket keyed with that bore.

For instance, if you measure a pitch
distance of 1 1/4'' on your chain, divide
it by two to get 5/8'', which tells you you
need a #50 roller chain sprocket. If you
count 20 teeth on your original sprocket,
you need a standard roller chain sprocket
with 40 teeth. If you measure the shaft at
1 7/16'' diameter, you thus need a #50
roller chain sprocket with 40 teeth bored
and keyed for 1 7/16''. Which sounds
unique, but is available many places either
online, or at any decent industrial supply
store.

Or you could braze the original back
together - you certainly wouldn't be the
first to do that. For a rake used for a few
hours each year it would probably still
outlive all of us.
 
Thanks for all the help. I have a loaner rake I can use for the season and will get this one patched up when I have the time. I'll be sure to provide updates when I get her all fixed up
 
Just a good welding shop unless you lost part of the sprocket, welded up it
can be stronger than when new so question should be did you loose a section
of it, If not just get it welded and forget abought looking for a
replacement.
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:41 07/06/23) Thanks for all the help. I have a loaner rake I can use for the season and will get this one patched up when I have the time. I'll be sure to provide updates when I get her all fixed up

We have two of these old rakes. We've had them for about six years. I've been wanting to take the two of them and make one good rake. Project is on the back burner, because we still have two working rakes (a NH 56 and a NI 402)

We are in NY State, if you wanted to make a trip and scavenge some parts.

I thought I was crazy, because the Allis Chalmers rakes were discontinued... but now... our NH56-style rollabar is also discontinued. And new rakes are thousands of dollars, so those two old Allis rakes will be in the weeds until we use them, or somebody else does. With scrap prices being pennies per pound...they are a decent insurance policy.
 
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