Need help troubleshooting 47 Case SC problem

[waltham41]

The tractor was running only fair and idling rough but brush hogged fine before being down a year for a intake manifold to be rebuilt

Put a kit in the carb to smooth out the idle since getting the tractor running again, and the tractor idles smooth and runs and drives fine until trying to use pto to brush hog.

As soon as the tractor gets into any grass it slows down and looses rpm until either it dies or I pull back on the clutch lever. I do not hear the motor changing rpm by the govenor like it used to

If I disengage the pto it will drive through the deep grass fine.

If I sit in one place and have pto engaged the brush hog rotates fine so I do not think it is the brush hog. I also serviced the brush hog and everything on it is lubed and turning properly.

Last year I was cutting small sapplings 12 feet tall and this year I cannot cut grass 18 inches tall without stalling.

It acts like the govenor is not working right or something, is it possible for a govenor to freeze up from sitting and not work?

It had really old spark plug wires and I replaced them with modern auto wires I had in the shop,

I put new spark plugs in it same size, same gap and I cleaned the contacts and rotor button in the dist cap.

I checked the points (someone had changed it from magneto to dist sometime in the past) and they looked fine.

I cleaned the oil bath air filter and put new oil in it.

I would appreciate some suggestions as to what else I can check to get the power back up or whatever is wrong.

Any suggestions appreciated!

 

[Ken in AZ]

On the spark plug wires, were the new ones the resistor wires or were they solid core? These tractors seem to prefer the solid core ones. Not sure its the trouble, but worth a look.

Do you have enough fuel flow?

does your governor linkage move when you load the engine?

Just some thoughts.

Ken in AZ

 

[waltham41]

The spark plug wires are the new type resistor wires. I will try to find a set of solid wires to use, they are not easy to find at the auto stores these days. And the tractor stores in my area cater mostly to newer tractors anymore.

I am getting plenty of fuel flow, in fact when I rebuilt the carb I found that someone had set the floats so that the bowl was not keeping enough fuel, I think correcting that has helped the motor run smoother.

I am not sure about the govenor lever, would holding the brakes and with the tractor in gear letting the clutch out some and having some one watch for movement of the lever work?

Thanks

 

[Walt Davies]

Check your linkage from the governor to the carb sounds like its not correct or sticking or the governor has a problems.
Walt

 

[Ken in AZ]

I've been told that Napa usually has some solid core wire available for small engines; you might give that a shot for wires. you might give them a call and find out.

The governor linkage should move freely against the spring pressure. I would grab the throttle linkage from the governor (with the engine off of course) and run it back and forth from open to closed on the throttle. It should move smoothly and not have any tendency to stick. I believe there is a procedure for setting the limits in the manual so you might look at following that. A good inspection might give you some ideas.

Hope this helps.

Ken in AZ

 

[waltham41]

Walt, I have checked and the linkage for the governor will move by hand, nothing seems to be frozen or binding as far as I can tell,

Ken thanks for the idea about the wires, I never thought of napa.

I have read the manual and checked how the linkages are supposed to be set, it just seems to me that they are not moving on their own when they are supposed to.

How big a deal is it to give a govenor a good cleaning if that is what it turns out to be?

I can see basically how to remove the cover, and my manual shows a basic diagram of the parts but are there any things I should look out for like things that can drop into the crankcase or anything?

THanks for the replys, they are helping me troubleshoot this critter

 

[Gene Dotson]

Waltham;

I suspect the governor to carburetor adjustment. With engine off and throttle wide open, the top of the carburetor arm should be 1/16" to 3/32" from the wide open stop pin. Lengthen or shorten this rod to get this dimension... Gene

 

[waltham41]

I will check that measurement, thank you for telling me.

 

[Klyde]

No mention of the load screw setting?? OPEN it up a few turns an see what happens. It ain't no briggs 1 1/2 turns won't make any power in an SC but it will run ok.

 

[waltham41]

I adjusted the govenor linkage as suggested, and put the old wire spark plug wires back on. (Finally found where I can get new ones and will pick them up in a day or so)

I pulled the point plate out of the distributor and found that the counterweights were not moving and one spring was missing, I lubed the counterweights, and put a spring off of a chevy distributor in it, figured any spring was better than none.

Now the tractor is more like it used to be, its harder to start, pops often through the exhaust, doesnt seem to have as high a top rpm but will work to brush hog.

Most times it will crawl through the grass and cut and rev up some when it hits deeper grass, but some times it starts to die down and I have to pull the clutch and reingage a time or two and it will take off again.

I am going to put the new wires on it, and have my brother tinker with the timing and carb settings and we will do a compression check and see if we can make it run better.

What is a general psi for the cylinders that would be considered good for a motor this old? I know I need to see readings that are within 10 percent of each other but do not know a base line to start from.

Thanks for the help everyone, its not running as good as I am hoping for yet, but it is brush hogging much better.

 

[greatwest]

the backfiring out of the muffler likely means the timing is too late.... if it was out of the carb it means it is too early. Napa should have the plug wires... I solder the ends so they will not pull out. you can also try starting off in fourth gear to set the timin if unsure, just mark your start point on the mag and housing first, move mag 1/16 of an inch and see if it will stall when the clutch is let out, this is a crude method but will work to get the timing close.(engine will have most power when timed correctly) ... good luck.

 

[waltham41]

Could you please tell me where that screw is at? There is still a lot about the tractor I am learning as I go along.


I have put new copper wires on the tractor, and when it starts now it starts fine and idles very well with no misses in the engine at all from idle to full throttle.

When you take off it will start popping through the exhaust, and when you put a load on the engine (brushhog or start up a slight incline) it will start popping often and sounds like crap and just doesnt have the pep it used to have.

I think I am missing something, like fine tuning the carb or dist or the governor is sticking or something.

Have a question, this tractor has had the magneto taken off and a Old delco distributor put on in its place. What point gap would you guys suggest?