Need method for removing seized roll pins

[rbortnem]

I have a rest o ride seat from a Ford tractor in sad shape that I want to rebuild. All of the pins are rusted in place -- I can't even drive out the cotter pins. I just received my order of Kroil so I'm half way there. Now I need to find a solid support with a hole in it to support the shafts while I try to drive out the pins etc. Anyone have a suggestion or idea that has worked well for them? I hate pounding on a partially opened vise, but that's what I've done in the past.

 

[Bret4207]

Heat, lots of heat.

 

[Tony S.]

I use sockets. You can pick the size you need.

 

[Dean]

They can be stubborn but Kroil, a couple of good drifts and perserverence will pay off.

You can back up the shafts with sockets, etc. An extra pair of hands will help.

Dean

 

[rbortnem]

Thanks everyone, for your quick and thoughtful replies.

 

[Butch(OH)]

I am not familar with the Ford seat but the D series A-Cs used a smallish (maybe 1/8"?) roll pin in the seat shafts. I had better drilling them out with a Cobalt bit than any other method. As an aside I dont like to beat on my good vise myself. It is mounted on my heavy welding bench and I have over the years drilled a few holes in it just for jobs like you discribe. I weld a few scraps on the bench to keep the part from walking around along with a half clamp to hold it down. When done I knock everything off and grind the bench flat again.

 

[glennster]

if you have a tool truck that services your area, ie snap on, mac, matco, cornwell, get a set of roll pin punches. they are designed with a dimple on the end to center it on the roll pin. they work real good.

 

[Ken-Pa]

I know what you mean about getting something solid to drive those pins out . When I did my Rest-O-Ride (alone), I used some scrap steel , devised an extension by locking the steel in the vice . I even tack welded the seat frame to that steel so it would stay where I needed it . After I got the pins out , I used my angle grinder with cutoff disc to cut the weld loose then clean up the remaining weld . When a guy has no extra hands available , he has to do whatever works best .I hope this idea helps , it worked for me anyhow .It"s a time project if you want it to look nice . Also when I reinstalled new pins, I smeared some "Never Seize" in the hole & on the pin . It helps when driving pins in place & keeps it from rusting solid again . God bless, Ken

 

[RodinNS]

Depends... If you're in around rubber parts or other stuff that will melt/brun then I would hit it hard with combustion chamber cleaner. Not carb cleaner or brake cleaner... COMBUSTION chamber cleaner. It seems to have more acetone in it and some kind of foaming agent. It's the best penetrant I've ever seen.

If burning stuff is not an issue... go straight to the torch and heat it till it glows. Drive the pins out hot. Heat the surrounding parts to get them hotter than the pin... the pin will contract faster than the surrounding metal and drive out easily. If it needs a reheat, hit it again. Far easier than pounding away and using penetrants.

Rod

 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

Hi Butch,

I'm always telling the students in the metal art class I teach to lift their eyes from the project they're working on and notice that they have the resources of a well set up college welding shop at their disposal. It's reasonably easy to make single use tools since the fit and finish doesn't matter, or to weld bars or handles to pieces they are working on to make them easier to hold in place. It takes awhile for most people to come to the realization that if it takes fifteen minutes to fabricate something that makes a piece easier to work on, and it saves hours overall (not to mention the reduced frustration and aggravation) then it ought to be a no-brainer.

Frankly, most people never get it. Of course, it does require a major shift in perspective---nothing else most people have ever worked with in their lives is as forgiving as steel. In fact, before learning to weld, most people probably regard steel as the benchmark of difficult, no-mistakes-allowed materials. It's kind of amazing when you start working with it to realize that it's practically the opposite of that.

Stan

 

[Butch(OH)]

Thanks Stan,
I would only add "and machine" to your statement about forgiving and welding. I have been well blessed with tools along with over the years working with people who knew how to get things done, tools or no tools. My best education came from a welder who worked all over the country as a pile driver. We started up a job and before anything else he welded up a sturdy table from an old road plate and ordered a Starrett vise. Ever know anyone who had a shop full of tools and yet still could hardly get past changing a wiper blade? He was exactly the opposite. Learning to become a craftsman and a thinker needs to come BEFORE the cool tools not after,, that's what so many miss out on. I could make due without a huge pile of my tools, but one that has to stay is my
4' x 6' x 1" thick steel table.

 

[smallercrawler]

For round work, have made Vee blocks as needed out of appropriate sizes of angle iron welded open "side" up to a bench (temporarily). Drill a clearence hole in the bottom of the Vee, nest the shaft in it, align the pin with the hole, and use a good pin punch to drive pin out. Sometimes it works better to grind pin even with shaft before driving to avoid pin deforming. Suggest safety glasses.

 

[Lou from Wi.]

If you have an air chisel and room to use it the long pointed bit in your air chisel will drive out the pins.With your choice of free up oil added to the pin,plus you don"t have to accidentally hit your fingers and come up with new and exciting vocabulary.
link

 

[the tractor vet]

How to drive stuck pins . First off i like to start off with a taper pand a punch punch and a chisel holder so if i just happen to miss the target i am not dancing around cussen and a BMFH. And myself i prefer Zep the best money can buy . Then commence to take out my frustrations on it .

 

[Dick L]

Butch, You be a lucky man. I never had a welding table.
I do make do with what I have around.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Stands will due for hack work like yours Dick, LOL

 

[Dick L]

What? Dixie been tellin on me again?

 

[Stan in Oly, WA]

Hi Dick,

My setup for working at home is no better than yours---probably worse since I've got nowhere to weld indoors, and it looks like you do. If I didn't have the use of the community college welding shop (brand new in 2009) I'd be pretty much SOL.

Stan

 

[Ultradog MN]

I never had a decent welding table either so I bought this table at a machine shop auction last winter. But I didn't have a way to move it around. So I welded on the tabs for a 3 point and leave it sit in the doorway of my garage. If I need to get something large into the garage or want to work outside I can pick it up and move it.

 

[Dick L]

I was just picking on the rich guy. ^D
I really do not have room for a large heavy welding table at home or at work in my work areas.

 

[rbortnem]

Thanks again everyone for your good suggestions.

 

[ASEguy]

That's a great idea. Thanks for the pic.