Need Slip Clutch Schooling

[Kelly in tx]

In heavy cutting yesterday I plugged my sickle cutter conditioner. The slip clutch actually smoked. I've removed the "plug" of hay and the cutter runs okay. Will it work in heavy cutting, or do I need to tighten it or replace part of it or??? Thanks, kelly

 

[old]

In heavy cutting yesterday I plugged my sickle cutter conditioner. The slip clutch actually smoked. I've removed the "plug" of hay and the cutter runs okay. Will it work in heavy cutting, or do I need to tighten it or replace part of it or??? Thanks, kelly

Hard to say with out a lot more info like make and model etc.

 

[sandcastle1]

slip clutch smokes because it broke free, if you tighten it will cut heavier before it slips, the trick is when do you want it to slip?

 

[Janicholson]

In heavy cutting yesterday I plugged my sickle cutter conditioner. The slip clutch actually smoked. I've removed the "plug" of hay and the cutter runs okay. Will it work in heavy cutting, or do I need to tighten it or replace part of it or??? Thanks, kelly

Leave it alone. If it begins to slip in "normal" conditions, tighten only to keep that safety margin. """TIGHTER"" is broken expensive parts. Jim

 

[Caryc]

The slip clutch was on the Woods M5 mower when I purchased my MF202. The clutch was frozen up due to rust and being outside for years with no cover over it. I rebuilt the clutch ans wire brushed all the mating surfaces back to nice and shiny. I also purchased two new clutch discs that were still available for it. In the blown up pic, you can see it pulled apart. You can see how it works. The larger metal disk is solid with the drive shaft and the clutch discs go on each side of it. When it's all back together the springs hold the disc plates against the large middle disc to give it the traction it needs. If the springs are adjusted correctly, they will let that center disc turn if the mower hits something solid like a stump. You can adjust it by putting a mark on the center metal disc. and also mark the two outside steel discs accordingly. You can them run the mower through some cutting and check to see if the middle steel disc mark is still in line with the outer marks. You can run it through some heavier stuff and check it again. to see if the marks still line up. If they don't line up, that means the clutch has slipped during the cut.

You don't want the thing slipping too much as that will cause it to heat up and start smoking. It's kind of a dance back and forth with it to get it set just right.

 

[moresmoke]

slip clutch smokes because it broke free, if you tighten it will cut heavier before it slips, the trick is when do you want it to slip?

I’d be willing to bet the operator’s manual has instructions for properly setting the clutch.

 

[Tx Jim]

Depending on the type of slip clutch some were designed to be adjustable & some slip clutches similar to Krone AM283S disc cutter are "non-adjustable". What type slip clutch are you referring to?

 

[560Dennis]

Doing its job .
suggest the sickle cutter sections ,ledgers ,cutter bar registers ,cutter bar pitch , crop ,dew ,drive backlash and land speed

 

[Fritz Maurer]

First of all, if it broke loose and started smoking, that is exactly what you want. This is called "burnishing the clutch" , ie, rubbing the rust off and making clean surfaces so the clutch can transmit the power it is supposed to.

Many MFRS. give base settings that may or may not need to be altered to suit the conditions. Sometimes it is the spring compressed height, or other times they use torque wrench specs (torque required to slip the clutch) as a means of setting. It is worth your time to find out the particular specs for your clutch, as it is good practice to loosen the springs in the off season so the frictions don't adhere to the steel.

If this slippage continues in the heavy spots, try tightening the springs evenly a small amount, like a quarter turn at a time . This is of course after the machine is well lubricated and determined that there are no loose or broken parts in the mechanism that might cause additional torque load.

Some older combines had a slip clutch on the table auger. Due to the close proximity of the chain , they sometimes get soaked with lubricant. If this is a like situation in your machine, the clutch should be loosened slightly and the shaft stalled by some means and the PTO operated and the clutch allowed to smoke until the oil is burned off. This may get you back in the field, but is a less than ideal situation since the friction plate(s) are ruined for good, and should be replaced as soon as possible.

 

[Caryc]

I’d be willing to bet the operator’s manual has instructions for properly setting the clutch.

On mine, I found a setting for "spring length" as a setting for normal. I just can't remember where I got that or where it was. I'll go through my tractor stuff and see if I can locate it again.