New 2n owner questions

RichieWis

Member
Recently purchased a 1942 2n (same year as the owner but we won"t go there!) Have a few questions
1.Quite certain it has a Sherman step down transmission.Wondering how rare it is.Have looked at John Smith"s site.
2.How do I check wear on the axle pin?
3.Manifold has been leaking for years I"m sure,took old off and the block is in tough shape at upper left corner of #4.Put on one gasket w/ no sealer still leaked.Am going to try 2 gaskets.Any ideas what else can be done to seal it up?
Thanks for your responses and I enjoy your forum.
You guys know your stuff !
Am sure will be asking a lot of ques.
 
Richie:

Your story sounds just like mine. I have a 47 2N (same born on year as me). My # 4 exhaust port was pretty well shot too. I had to replace the manifold and re-surface the block. I bought a manifold from the local Newholland dealer for about $60 and the quality was pretty darn good. The ones you can buy on line require some grinding to make them fit right. As for the block, I wire brushed the pitted area to remove all of the rust & carbon, then filled with JB Weld & filed it flat. There are other members of this forum that will give you more detailed advice & pictures like "Dan". He has done this on 2 tractors and has good success.

My 2N has a step up sherman on it & I use it frequently to make the 1.5 mi. trip to the mailbox, but only then. The step down would be much more useful, but know that the PTO slows down (speeds up in my case) with the sherman too so brush hogging or any other PTO uses are impacted. The hydraulics also slow down when in low range.

A worn axel pin will cause "slop" in the front end & steering. I recently replaced mine & am glad that I did. Here is a picture of the bushing:

Axelbushingwornthrough.jpg


If you do replace the axel bushing & pin, also consider replacing the radius rod bolts. they tend to get worn after so many years. Here is what mine looked like:

Axelboltgauled.jpg


Here is the completed axel on my "Beast":

Axelrebuiltsideview.jpg


Good luck & keep on posting questions and results.
 
Richie........congrats on yer new-to-you 2N. Shermans were dealer installed and the first were OverDrive, next came the rare UnderDrive that unfortunately used the same "L" type shifter. And lastly came the more common and desirable 3-speed combo with doglegged "S" shifter lever.

Since it is extremely difficult for neubies to judge tractor speed, you haffta depend upon shifter lever placement to help you determine iff'n OD or UD. Lever FORWARD is straight-thru, lever AFT is shifted. (whether OD or UD, aft is shifted) Now then, when yer Sherman lever is shifted AFT, are you doing faster or slower???

3) extra gaskets ain't goin' to seal yer eroded block. While J&B Weld is good stuff, there is BETTER hi-temp puckey. Go to good autoparts store and shop, then do the following. DRILL some 1/8" blind holes to hold the thin skim of puckey like rivets. Figger-out how to WEDGE or clamp a flat board TIGHT against yer puckey-patch so you don't haffta do "machine-shop grinding" for flush fit. The flush board will also fight gravity. Protect the board with wax so nuttin sticks to it. (wax paper, plastic baggy) NOW puckey away and clamper tite, cure for 24hrs. Simple, eh?.........Dell

PS......NO sealers on gaskets, torque BRASS studnuts to 27-ft/lbs, muffler clamp thickside DOWN
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:29 04/17/08)
Wow Dan....That color choice of yours is making me second guess the color of my 2N...That blue looks good!!!

Sean:

I'm going to paint the Beast gray & blue so as not to offend either the North or the South.
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:13 04/17/08)
(quoted from post at 15:38:29 04/17/08)
Wow Dan....That color choice of yours is making me second guess the color of my 2N...That blue looks good!!!

Sean:

I'm going to paint the Beast gray & blue so as not to offend either the North or the South.

:lol: :lol: Ill be looking forward to the pics..
 
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