New 860 hydralic issues

[cowdog]

Just upgraded to an 860. Wow!.
It has a few issues though. When I start it up, it takes a few minutes before the 3 point raises. I did change the hydralic oil.. When it does raise, it kind of stutters as it goes up. It does however hold the back blade up for a long time . Lastly, the position control by works in the upper few inches of the quadrant. The little lever under the seat is horizontal. I believe that is position control.

Thanks for the help in advance and Merry Christmas guys.

Dave C

 

[Dean]

Sounds like typical vintage Ford top cover issues, i.e., cam follower pin, draft and position control adjustments and, probably, contamination or broken springs in the pump valves.

Removing the top cover, replacing the cam follower pin, and properly performing the draft and position control adjustments should solve the quadrant issues. Of course, you will want to renew the O-ring on the lift piston, thoroughly inspect everything for damage or wear, and thoroughly clean the sump while the lift cover is off. Obtain an I & T FO-20 manual and follow the alternative (no special tools required) procedures precisely.

Inspecting, cleaning and repairing the valves in the piston pump is straightforward and, again, procedures are in the I & T manual.

Dean

 

[WayneIA]

Dean has good suggestions, but first things first,in my opinion. Sounds like air in the system. Assuming you have a piston hydraulic pump, lossen the 3/8s plug from the top front of the pump to bleed the air from the system . This may take a while. Then see if your jerkiness' and slow response aren't improved

 

[cowdog]

Ok, thanks guys. I will check the weather forecast and see if the weather will allow me to have it in the shop fr a bit. Are those valve springs easy to buy/ find?

 

[Dean]

OH kits for the piston pump are readily available at modest prices.

Inspect first, and, yes, it could be trapped air, but if it is, it will likely return.

Dean

 

[cowdog]

Ok, I will get it tore down after the holidays. Thanks fr tir help
. I might have a few questions for you when I get into it.

Thanks again and Merry Christmas
Dave C

 

[Hobo,NC]

Sounds like multiple issues... Pump and lift cover issues...

A tip are two... I just adjusted the lift on one yesterday I had been into it the first of the summer it worked well BUT GRRRRRRR he uses a worn out box blade and wanted the lift arms to go lower...

First issue his check chains were to short even with them disconnected the lift arms were 10" off the ground in the lower position. 8" is acceptable but not with his worn out box blade so I bit the bullet and pulled the lift cover. I used a cherry picker and a bracket I made that bolts to the studs holding the seat. As soon as you lift the cover you can adjust it around so it picks up the cover level about where the front seat bold/stud is located is about right. That will let you install the cover with the front of the cover down just a little so it slips right into place.

By shorting up the control valve linkage I knew I was gonna lose my draft adjustment BTDT have a plan...

First lift arms down I did this adjustment with the lift cover still on the cherry picker lift cover was horizontal like it sits on the tractor I had it lifted about eye level.

By shorting up the turn buckle on the position control valve quadrant full down till the valve comes flush moving out with the housing and to where it just bottoms out on the housing when its at full lift is the goal you can throw the damm adjustment gauge away.

If you don't want to mess with draft you can adjust the control valve to where it touches the lift control housing at about 2" from the top of the quadrant.

I don't so once the cover is on I remove the big fat draft spring on the rear of the cover and the retaining plate bolted on with 3 bolts (you should have made sure its free when you were rebuilding the lift cover) I make a thick washer with a slot the slot is to clear the dowel pin on the draft link. This pushes the draft plunger in and will get draft control back if desired. The washer I made is about 3/16" thick and sometimes it takes more are less thinner washers. Its an EZ and fast adjustment.

As far as your limit of control on the quadrant that's no biggie as long as you have full control of the lift and I prefer my control near the top of travel. : ) The cam follower pin is probably wore out that's where your lack of adjustment travel is at.

Adjustments are not your issue its hydraulic issues... If you are lucky JMOR will ring in he's the man on hydraulic issues...

I was in a hurry will take pix of adjustment on the next one...

 

[cowdog]

I think I understand what you are saying Hobo. But when I get into it I might have a question or two. So stay tuned please. Likely be after first of year before I get into it.
Thanks
Dave C

 

[cowdog]

Ok. I got my hydraulic pump rebuilt. I.have bled the system many times. Including putting air pressure I to.the dipstick hole. It works up and down fine. The issue I have is this. If I leave the position control lever at the bottom of the quadrant when I shut it off overnite. When I start it up it takes about 11 to 12 seconds before the lift responds to the lever being placed at full up at startup. If the postion control lever is left in the upper range of the quadrant over nite. Then at startup it takes about 3 seconds for the lift to respond. What do you hydraulic gurus figure I got going on here?. By the way this is a Ford 860.